Part of a new area in the proximity of Big Chief, this wall is located on Sawtooth Ridge, which is on the other side of the valley from Big Chief. You can actually see the climbing on Sawtooth Ridge from the North Pass going out of Big Chief looking away from Highway 89.
Of the 5 routes, almost all are sport, and also one 5.9- route that can be led traditionally. This is the beginner / warmup area for the other walls and towers of Sawtooth Ridge.
Routes range from 5.7 to 510b, though topropes between existing routes can make the grades a little higher. All rock is a Volcanic Tuff, very similar in nature to that found on the lager cliffs nearby.
This place is in the sum from about 10:00, and stays in the sun until sunset. It can be quite hot on a hot day, and excellent during spring.
All routes lower off top anchors, though the dihedral can be walked off the top.
The approach to the rocks of Sawtooth Ridge are closer to forest road 6, though the approach takes approximately the same amount of time. Skimmy (5.10b) is excellent.
Approach time: 20 minutes.
Drive in on Forest Road number 6 as though you were going to Big Chief. Park about 5 miles into the drive in a clearing on the left (a logged out area actually). You can see the cliffs looking across the Valley from the lot.
Walk down one of several light trails that get you to the intermittent creek, which is usually low enough to cross. Pickup a thin trail that heads to the left side of the cliff, which is lightly in view through the trees.
Head up the trail following the Cairns on rocks to the base of the Sawtooth Ridge climbing area. Pentathlete Wall starts on the 50' pillar to the left of where the trail hits the rock, and other routes are around the corner to the left of this pillar.
This is the third bolted route from the right on the Pentathlete Wall, and the leftmost bolt on the pillar that this route shares with Pollo Del Fuego. To get yourself off the ground, find whatever means necessary. After that, climbing eases until the fourth bolt, where a blind or reachy move pulls you through the crux.After this, climbing eases, but is still fun and exciting for the grade.Fun, and a good warmup. ...[more]Browse More Classics in CA