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Pentapitch Area

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Cool Your Jets 
Dike from Hell 
Endless Torment 
Flashdance 
Ginseng 
Japanese Terraces 
Lesbian Seagulls 
Littlefoot 
Loch Ness Monster 
Neuromancer 
Nubbins Direct 
Nubbins to Nowhere 
Pearls Before Swine 
Pentapitch 
Pudgy Gumbies 
Sasquatch 
Tormented Lesbian, The 

Pentapitch Area 


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Page Views: 86,350
Administrators: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Eric Jacobsen on Oct 26, 2003
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BETA PHOTO: Centered in this photo, the two levels of blank ro...
Do not cross the pipe by the pumphouse. MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Popular on hot mornings as this crag offers nice northwest-facing climbs. Fine Yosemite-like granite and several stellar multi-pitch climbs. Mostly trad but a few sport routes in the .11 - .12 range. Don't miss Pentapitch and Sasquatch!


Getting There 

The Pentapitch area is on the south side of the canyon.

After passing the pumphouse watch for the gated road on the right (here).

Park at the pullout and walk down the road or through the woods to cross the stream at a bridge. Walk down canyon until you see a trail branching off on your left just before you reach two large pine trees on the right side of the main trail.

Hike up the trail. At the bottom of the talus stick more-or-less to the right side and you will be deposited at the base of Pentapitch.


17 Total Routes


['4 Stars',2],['3 Stars',9],['2 Stars',6],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',2],['5.9',1],['5.10',9],['5.11',4],['5.12',1],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Pentapitch Area:
Pentapitch   5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c     Trad   
Japanese Terraces   5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c     Trad, 3 pitches, 400'   
Sasquatch   5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a     Trad   
Nubbins Direct   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a PG13     Trad, 80'   
Endless Torment   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b     Trad, 2 pitches, 120'   
Dike from Hell   5.10 6b 20 VII- E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 60'   
Pearls Before Swine   5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   
Nubbins to Nowhere   5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b     Trad, 165'   
Lesbian Seagulls   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b R     Sport, 1 pitch, 120'   
Neuromancer   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   
Littlefoot   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   
Flashdance   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- E4 6a R     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 80'   
Pudgy Gumbies   5.11d 7a 24 VIII E5 6a     Trad, 1 pitch, 95'   
Cool Your Jets   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   
Browse More Classics in Pentapitch Area

Featured Route For Pentapitch Area
first pitch.

Pentapitch 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c  UT : Wasatch Range : ... : Pentapitch Area
A classic Little Cottonwood multi pitch-climb.Features fun crack- and face-climbing on quality granite. The second plus third and the fourth plus fifth pitches can be easily run together into two pitches if you keep rope drag down with use of long runners.Descend by numerous rap stations available on right side of route (adjacent to Sasquatch). All raps can be done with a single 50 meter rope. ...[more]   Browse More Classics in UT

Photos of Pentapitch Area Slideshow Add Photo
The Pentapitch area!
BETA PHOTO: The Pentapitch area!
Trailhead and bridge shown by the two stars here.  Type these coords into google maps (40.571637, -111.732425). Android doesn't let me click the links in the "Getting There" section.
BETA PHOTO: Trailhead and bridge shown by the two stars here. ...
Comments on Pentapitch Area Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jun 12, 2011
By Mike the Trad Guy
Mar 12, 2002

pentapitch is a LCC classic. Don't skip the last pitch, it is a great pitch when run together as a long single pitch, and has great exposure while padding over to the tree that is no longer there! BONUS!! Also, if you have done "sasquatch" a million times, try "Ginseng", a nice alternate route to the right of sasquatch, it has a reachy 10a crux, but is very rewarding moves.

By Jared Brown
Jun 24, 2002

The description how to get to this rock is confusing if you've never been there before. The two large pine trees are bigger than the other large pine trees in the area and are a few feet off the road to the left, at the third trail that branches off the road. Stay along the right edge of the boulder field and go to the top right corner of it, where a short trail will lead you to the base of pentapitch. Sasquatch is to the right, and begins on a low angle slab below an overhang.

By Anonymous Coward
Jan 21, 2004
Gear Alert

There is now a piton where the tree used to be. Too bad, because you could get a small stopper and a small cam as pro.

By Peter Gram
Administrator
From: New York, NY
May 18, 2004

No pitons on Pentapitch currently in May 2004.

By Tico
May 25, 2007

My current favorite link-up is Neuromancer -> Sasquatch -> Pentapitch.
Nice and varied climbing, and it gets easier the higher you go. Also a nice way to skip the crowds on Pentapitch proper.

By lauren wildflower
Aug 31, 2009

two important tips that would've helped us first-timers to the area:
1) to get to pentapitch, DON'T turn at the pipe! this gets you waist-deep in weeds. instead, keep walking past the pipe until you see two massive pine trees on the left and large stone steps leading to the right across a muddy area. after only about a minute you'll walk into a large talus field. follow the right edge of this to the base of pentapitch area.
2) the pitch following sasquatch feels much more difficult than 5.8 and involves more slab climbing than we trad climbers were prepared for. we had a doubled/tripled rack and still ran out of little pro to .75 because the tiny finger-tip crack was all there was. great climb, but be prepared!

By grk10vq
Administrator
Aug 31, 2009

i had the pleasure of witnessing the latter half of that shit show, i couldn't figure out how you guys ran out of gear 15 feet above the anchor on a pitch requiring roughly four pieces?

glad you survived.

By rth
From: Salt Lake City
Jun 8, 2011

requested update on the pump house bridge to get to the pentapitch area. Is there a replacement in place or in the works?

By Greg G
From: SLC, UT
Jun 12, 2011

no bridge as of 6/12/11, and probably won't be for at least a few months.