Popular on hot mornings as this crag offers nice northwest-facing climbs. Fine Yosemite-like granite and several stellar multi-pitch climbs. Mostly trad but a few sport routes in the .11 - .12 range. Don't miss Pentapitch and Sasquatch!
The Pentapitch area is on the south side of the canyon. The directions in the Ruckman guide (as well as older comments below) are wrong since a bridge by the pumphouse washed out.
After passing the pumphouse, continue driving up canyon. Just past Gate B, watch for the pullout and gated dirt road on the right.
Park at the pullout. Scoot around the chain-link gate and continue along the road going east for about 0.1mi. The road will turn down towards the creek (south). Follow for another few hundred feet to a nice wooden bridge over the creek.
Cross the bridge, and you are now on a doubletrack mtn bike trail. The trail immediately turns right (going west). Follow it for about 0.25mi, passing a giant split boulder on your right until you come to two obvious giant pine trees (see photo) off the right side of the trail. To your left will be an obvious path with stone steps. It will likely be muddy and might have a small stream running down it (see photo).
Follow the trail a short ways to a talus field. Skirt the right side of the field. At the far right corner of the field pick up a short trail (100ft) that goes straight up to the base of Pentapitch.
Approach time is about 20 minutes.
17 Total Routes
['4 Stars',2],['3 Stars',9],['2 Stars',6],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
Browse More Classics in Pentapitch Area
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Pentapitch Area:
Littlefoot 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Neuromancer 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport, 1 pitch, 100'
Flashdance 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
R Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 80'
Featured Route For Pentapitch Area
Local Information for Pentapitch Area
Latest Regional Forum Messages
BETA PHOTO: The Pentapitch area!
BETA PHOTO: Centered in this photo, the two levels of blank ro...
BETA PHOTO: Trailhead and bridge shown by the two stars here. ...
BETA PHOTO: Trail off the mtn bike trail. This is the left tur...
|By Mike the Trad Guy|
Mar 12, 2002
pentapitch is a LCC classic. Don't skip the last pitch, it is a great pitch when run together as a long single pitch, and has great exposure while padding over to the tree that is no longer there! BONUS!! Also, if you have done "sasquatch" a million times, try "Ginseng", a nice alternate route to the right of sasquatch, it has a reachy 10a crux, but is very rewarding moves.
|By Jared Brown|
Jun 24, 2002
The description how to get to this rock is confusing if you've never been there before. The two large pine trees are bigger than the other large pine trees in the area and are a few feet off the road to the left, at the third trail that branches off the road. Stay along the right edge of the boulder field and go to the top right corner of it, where a short trail will lead you to the base of pentapitch. Sasquatch is to the right, and begins on a low angle slab below an overhang.
|By Anonymous Coward|
Jan 21, 2004
There is now a piton where the tree used to be. Too bad, because you could get a small stopper and a small cam as pro.
|By Peter Gram|
From: New York, NY
May 18, 2004
No pitons on Pentapitch currently in May 2004.
May 25, 2007
My current favorite link-up is Neuromancer -> Sasquatch -> Pentapitch.
Nice and varied climbing, and it gets easier the higher you go. Also a nice way to skip the crowds on Pentapitch proper.
|By lauren wildflower|
Aug 31, 2009
two important tips that would've helped us first-timers to the area:
1) to get to pentapitch, DON'T turn at the pipe! this gets you waist-deep in weeds. instead, keep walking past the pipe until you see two massive pine trees on the left and large stone steps leading to the right across a muddy area. after only about a minute you'll walk into a large talus field. follow the right edge of this to the base of pentapitch area.
2) the pitch following sasquatch feels much more difficult than 5.8 and involves more slab climbing than we trad climbers were prepared for. we had a doubled/tripled rack and still ran out of little pro to .75 because the tiny finger-tip crack was all there was. great climb, but be prepared!
Aug 31, 2009
i had the pleasure of witnessing the latter half of that shit show, i couldn't figure out how you guys ran out of gear 15 feet above the anchor on a pitch requiring roughly four pieces?
glad you survived.
From: Salt Lake City
Jun 8, 2011
requested update on the pump house bridge to get to the pentapitch area. Is there a replacement in place or in the works?
|By Greg G|
From: SLC, UT
Jun 12, 2011
no bridge as of 6/12/11, and probably won't be for at least a few months.