Penstemon Dome has a variety of bolted and traditionally protected routes from 5.5 to 5.12. The clean rock, height of the dome, and variety of grades; make this dome a "mandatory" destination for those visiting Courtright.
From the Maxon Parking lot, head down the 4WD trail until you see the creek on your right. Follow the creek upstream a few minutes then cross over and head uphill toward the southwest face of the dome. You can orient yourself by a large evergreen (pine?) tree that is directly in front of the dome. Most of the climbing routes are accessed by climbing the short 5.8 crack that is to the left of the tree. Access to the dome takes about 20 to 30 minutes.
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Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Penstemon Dome:
Captain America 5.10a Trad, Sport, 5 pitches, 400 feet, Grade II
Featured Route For Penstemon Dome
Captain America 5.10a CA : Sierra Foothills South : ... : Penstemon Dome
Start by climbing the crack (5.8) in the center of the dome. Belay on a spacious ledge by slinging a chockstone at the back or build an anchor near the front to avoid rope drag. Pitch 2 (5.7) takes you left around a corner and then angles up and left along an obvious crack. Build a belay behind a very thick flake/block but consider backing it up in the nearby crack.Pitch 3 (5.10a) opens with the technical crux and then backs off to 5.8 lay-back past two bonsai trees. If you have a 60m rope, ...[more] Browse More Classics in CA