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The Overlook
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Redrum AK A Jungleland T 
Agent Orange T 
Alley Oop T 
Amateur Hour T 
Amputation T 
Angel's Delight T 
Answered Prayers T 
Applesticks T 
Blunderbuss T 
Burger King T 
Burnt Buns T 
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Cakewalk AKA Coffin Corner T 
Circus Circus T 
Cloudwalk T 
Constant Gardener  T,TR 
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Devil's Deed T 
Direct Left T 
Duck Soup T 
Dugald's Right T 
Dugald's Route T 
Dyzygy T 
Everyday 5.3/ Head Cheese link up T 
Fresh Air T 
Gambit T 
George's Niche T 
Gingerbread T,TR 
Gridle, The T 
Griffo T 
Grunt'N'Dangle T 
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Hard Rain T 
Head Cheese T 
Hidden Hollow T 
Horn, The T 
I've Always Been Crazy T 
Isaiah T 
Jelly Roll T 
Left Trinity Crack T 
Looked Over T 
Magical Mystery Tour T 
Magumba's Corner T 
Mellow Yellow T 
Microtome T 
Middle Trinity Crack T 
Mint Jam T 
Mint Julep T 
Morning After T 
Morning's Mourning T 
Nickle Slot T 
Normally 3 Rurps T 
Normally Urgent T 
Not Fade Away AKA The Shining T 
Obediah T 
Obscurity T 
Orange Julius T 
Orange Out Direct T 
PegLeg I, II T 
Pensativa T 
Piddley Shit T 
Red Wagon T 
Right Trinity Crack T 
Satisfaction Guaranteed T 
Sexual Deviations T 
Sin Ropa T 
Sintisa T 
Sneak Preview T 
Sparky And The Firedog T 
Stalemate T 
Stonegate T 
Swedish Britfast Crack T 
Syzygy T 
Too Proud to Geek T 
Trinity Arete TR 
Trinity Roofs T 
Wager Crack T 
Wanderlust T 

Pensativa 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Paul Davidson, ~ '81
Page Views: 309
Submitted By: Paul Davidson on Apr 11, 2008

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BETA PHOTO: Looking up at Pensativa corner and MicroTome crack...

Climbing restricted due to tourist safety MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Ramp, corner, crack system just left of Hidden Hollow. It's the obvious wider black corner just right of MicroTome and Obscurity.

What appears as a bushy choss fest was actually some pretty decent climbing with a bit of 5.8 here and there. I think the "crux" would be towards the top.

It's a right leaning system.

Location 

Note there are two or three good 5.10 type routes to the left of this and before Fresh Air. Maybe Larry will chime in with their names.

Protection 

Standard rack, I imagine. Was done via 3rd class.


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By Paul Davidson
Dec 17, 2013

Recently, on a blast from the past, stopped here for a quick afternoon romp and jumped on this. Had been curious as to what it was really like.

I just wish I had a camera for a picture of Randy Mettler toping out carrying all the gear I'd placed on it.

I thought it was a very fun climb, much cleaner than it looks.
Crux is probably the corner 30 ft or so up. Bit tricky to get pulled into and over. The blocks seem pretty welded in place.

There's a great sequence of moves at the top that I'd forgotten all about. Go right at the top of the corner. Don't do the worm out left. Off balance, odd underclings get you out right where there's a big foot that has nothing but air and the Hidden Hollow slab below it. Great fun exposure, if you can consider the overlook having exposure. Disclaimer, You have to be willing to deal with some vegetation but not bad. Such things rarely bother me but if you've grown up clipping, this sort of thing may not be your cuppa.