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Pitch Penny Boulder
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Penny Standard 

Hueco: V3+ Font: 6A+

   
Type:  Boulder
Consensus:  Hueco: V2+ Font: 5+ [details]
FA: Tom Painter, mid-'80s
Page Views: 1,224
Submitted By: Tom Painter on Sep 18, 2006

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Description 

The crux is getting off of the ground, keeping shoulders and tips intact.

Location 

This problem lies just right of Penny Pincher on Pitch Penny boulder. The left hand starts on the ear of Penny Pincher and right hand on sloper on right leaning seam. Gaston each and levitate with the right foot to access the pocket. Crimping akin to Penny Pincher top ensues.

Protection 

None.


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By John Marsella
From: Berthoud, CO
Dec 15, 2010

This one is referred to as "Penny Standard**** V2" in the NCCC Horsetooth guidebook (#81, p. 27, Cross & Scott, 2009).

Sitting start requires either an immediate lunge-type move to the right-hand side-cling, or a slower, more balanced approach. Attaining the side-pull is the crux.