All Locations > Washington > Northwest Region > Darrington & Mt… > Darrington > Three O'clock Rock

Penny Lane

Name: Penny Lane
Rating: 3.0

5.10c YDS 6b French 20 Ewbanks VII UIAA 20 ZA E2 5b British

Routes in Three O'clock Rock

L › R R › L A › Z

	20th Century Clock S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Big Tree 2 T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Big Tree 2000 T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Big Tree, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Bushy Galore T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Charlie Chan's Number One Suspect S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Cornucopia T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
	Dirt Circus T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Garden Weasel T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
	Gastroblast T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
	Ginsu T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Luke 9:25 S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Magic Bus T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Masters of the Universe S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Mystery Tour T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Penny Lane T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Pucker Up S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Quin Konehead Pre-Memorial Route (aka The Kone), The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Rash, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
	Revolver T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Road to Nowhere S 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a PG13
	Silent Running T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Tidbits – first pitch T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
	Till Broad Daylight T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Total Soul T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Under the Bored Walk S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

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Type:	Trad, 600 ft (182 m), 4 pitches, Grade II
FA:	Greyell, Whitelaw, Packard 2003
Page Views:	1,799 total · 15/month
Shared By:	Curt Veldhuisen on Mar 1, 2014
Admins:	Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Zachary Winters Page Updates (admin only)

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Description

September 2022 Update: Damaged hardware has been completely replaced by Tyler Stockdale and friends! What a contribution!

Penny Lane is a high quality 4-pitch slab climb that is seriously overshadowed by its esteemed neighbors, Total Soul and Silent Running. But the climbing on Penny Lane is every bit as as good. Each successive pitch gets a bit steeper and more difficult as you get more comfortable making those delicate slab moves. By skipping the last pitch(s), you can make it a fine 2-pitch 5.8 or a 3-pitch 10a. Or climb through to Total Souls upper pitches for more 5.10 climbing. Lots of options in this neighborhood.

The route starts to the right and above the start of Total Soul - see topo. The first belay can be reached by unprotected slab climbing or, more safely, by a leftward traverse from the first belay of Silent Running.

Pitch 1 (5.7) The warm-up pitch, with moderate (5.7) slab climbing past 5 bolts.

Pitch 2 (5.8 PG) Left and up past four bolts to a small horizontal overlap. Place a small cam, step over and run it out on 5.8 slab to 2 more bolts and the belay. A great pitch and slightly spicy for the grade.

Pitch 3 (5.10a) is fabulous, with sustained climbing up scoops past many (9?) bolts. Scoops get progressively slopier, shifting gradually from 5.8 to a bit of 5.10 before the chains.

Pitch 4 (5.10c) heads left and up steeper ground on sweet little knobs to a distinctive black friction slab (10b). From there, traverse leftward to the fourth belay of Total Soul. The last few moves around a bulge are the crux of the route (10c), with excellent bolt placement. Others tell me there are small holds for the traverse, though I couldn't find them.

Descend: Double-rope rappels down Penny Lane or Total Soul.