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Routes in Pennyroyal Arches
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Diaphoretic Spasms T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Eagle Dihedral T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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Euphoria T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
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Hindsight T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c |
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Multiplication T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Myopia T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
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Penny Dreadful T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Penny Lane T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Resisting Arrest T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Vision, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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Whippersnapper T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c |
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White Slab T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R |
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| Type: | Trad, 450 ft (136 m), 4 pitches, Grade II |
| FA: | Clint Cummins and Bruce Hildenbrand 9/2008 |
| Page Views: | 1,270 total · 12/month |
| Shared By: | Bruce Hildenbrand on Aug 25, 2015 |
| Admins: | Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Access Issue: Latest updates on closures, permits, and regulations.
Details
Please visit climbingyosemite.com/ and nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the latest information on visiting Yosemite, including permits, regulations, and closure information.
Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15. Always check the NPS website at nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warnings due to current fires, smoke, etc.
Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15. Always check the NPS website at nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warnings due to current fires, smoke, etc.
Description
The fourth pitch is full-value Meadows face climbing.
Pitch 1 - climb up easy slab for about 75-80' heading for an obvious right facing dihedral. Once you reach the dihedral you can get pro. Belay about halfway up the dihedral on a small stance. 5.6-5.7
Pitch 2 - continue up the dihedral and then up and right as it curves right. At it's end climb up into a small left facing dihedral. Belay about 20 feet below the large ledge system which splits the face. 5.7
Pitch 3 - climb up 25' to the large ledge and belay at a large tree. EZ
Pitch 4 - the crux. Climb up and right past two bolts to a small ledge. Place a small stopper between some knobs(optional) and step up to clip the third bolt. Traverse left and then up to a fourth bolt. Head up and right to a small crack system to the fifth bolt. Proceed up the crack (#2 Camalot) to a headwall and the sixth and seventh bolts. Surmount the headwall(crux) to a ledge with a bolt. Up a crack/seam(doesn't take pro, but not difficult) for 20' to a two bolt belay.
Pitch 1 - climb up easy slab for about 75-80' heading for an obvious right facing dihedral. Once you reach the dihedral you can get pro. Belay about halfway up the dihedral on a small stance. 5.6-5.7
Pitch 2 - continue up the dihedral and then up and right as it curves right. At it's end climb up into a small left facing dihedral. Belay about 20 feet below the large ledge system which splits the face. 5.7
Pitch 3 - climb up 25' to the large ledge and belay at a large tree. EZ
Pitch 4 - the crux. Climb up and right past two bolts to a small ledge. Place a small stopper between some knobs(optional) and step up to clip the third bolt. Traverse left and then up to a fourth bolt. Head up and right to a small crack system to the fifth bolt. Proceed up the crack (#2 Camalot) to a headwall and the sixth and seventh bolts. Surmount the headwall(crux) to a ledge with a bolt. Up a crack/seam(doesn't take pro, but not difficult) for 20' to a two bolt belay.
Location
This route starts about 100' left of the huge dihedral which splits Pennyroyal Arches. You are heading for the obvious right facing dihedral. Climb up easy slabs to reach it.
To descend rap from the top of the fourth pitch with two 60m ropes. From the large ledge rap from the tree for 60m to a double bolt anchor. Rap 60m to the ground from there.
To descend rap from the top of the fourth pitch with two 60m ropes. From the large ledge rap from the tree for 60m to a double bolt anchor. Rap 60m to the ground from there.
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