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Middle Spire
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Anal Sex T 
Candyass T 
Candyland T 
Chainsaw Willie T,TR 
Clam, The T 
Cockabooty T 
Corn Flakes T 
Fancy Dancin' T,S 
Hard Up T 
Harding's Other Chimney T 
Hooray Hooray! T,TR 
Lean And Mean T 
Leaner and Meaner T 
Over Easy T 
Penny Candy S 
Prow, The S 
Rain Song S,TR 
Regular Route T 
Slowdancer T 
Tyro's Test Piece T 
Unknown T 
Unnamed T 
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Penny Candy 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Joel Ager and Clint Cummins 1990
Page Views: 1,658
Submitted By: Guy H. on Oct 6, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (20)
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Celebrations are in order, my friends.

Dirt road winter closures MORE INFO >>>


This is the pitch above Lean and Mean and Slowdancer, which follows 3 bolts up the arete. I recommend skipping the intermediate belay and linking the pitches for a great 90ft pitch. You will most likely want a couple long slings on the first two bolts, if linking the pitches.


The arete above Lean and Mean and Slowdancer...


3 bolts

Photos of Penny Candy Slideshow Add Photo
Alanna with amazing position on Penny Candy.
BETA PHOTO: Alanna with amazing position on Penny Candy.
Alanna rappeling "Penny Candy" and swing...
Alanna rappeling "Penny Candy" and swing...

Comments on Penny Candy Add Comment
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By David Knowles
From: Palo Alto, California
May 22, 2013

Just fyi the hangers at the top anchor are spinning.
By Josh Cameron
From: Moab, Colorado
Feb 17, 2011
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

After "Fear of Flying," my favorite route at Phantom Spires. Airy and exciting climbing followed by a fun rappel. We reached the ground with one 60m.

I struggled between giving the climb 3 or 4 stars and finally went with 4 since the exposure and the position of the line are both incredible. A blast to climb and a good tick for mere mortals like myself.
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