Route Guide - iPhone / Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Middle Spire
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Anal Sex 
Candyass 
Candyland 
Chainsaw Willie 
Clam, The 
Cockabooty 
Corn Flakes 
Fancy Dancin' 
Hard Up 
Harding's Other Chimney 
Hooray Hooray! 
Lean And Mean 
Leaner and Meaner 
Over Easy 
Penny Candy 
Prow, The 
Rain Song 
Regular Route 
Slowdancer 
Tyro's Test Piece 
Unknown 
Unnamed 

Penny Candy 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Joel Ager and Clint Cummins 1990
Page Views: 1,201
Submitted By: Guy H. on Oct 6, 2007
Good Page? 0 people like this page. Your opinion:   

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (18)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Me starting up "penny Candy." I remember it feelin...

Description 

This is the pitch above Lean and Mean and Slowdancer, which follows 3 bolts up the arete. I recommend skipping the intermediate belay and linking the pitches for a great 90ft pitch. You will most likely want a couple long slings on the first two bolts, if linking the pitches.


Location 

The arete above Lean and Mean and Slowdancer...


Protection 

3 bolts



Photos of Penny Candy Slideshow Add Photo
Josh starting the exhilarating rappel.
Josh starting the exhilarating rappel.
Here I am at what felt like the crux to me. It was a thin pinch to a bomber edge, but I skipped the insecure pinch and did a looong reach to the edge.
BETA PHOTO: Here I am at what felt like the crux to me. It was...
Alanna after having crossed the arete. To her, that was the crux.
BETA PHOTO: Alanna after having crossed the arete. To her, tha...
Celebrations are in order, my friends.
Celebrations are in order, my friends.
Alanna rappeling "Penny Candy" and swinging into space across "Lean and Mean." Wheee!!!
Alanna rappeling "Penny Candy" and swinging into s...
Comments on Penny Candy Add Comment
Show which comments
By David Knowles
May 22, 2013

CONDITION REPORT 

Just fyi the hangers at the top anchor are spinning.

By Josh Cameron
Feb 17, 2011

After "Fear of Flying," my favorite route at Phantom Spires. Airy and exciting climbing followed by a fun rappel. We reached the ground with one 60m.

I gave the climb three stars since the exposure is so awesome.