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Bauer Rock (South Mountain)  
Bellefonte Quarry 
Bilger's Rocks 
Birdsboro Quarry 
Blue Run Rocks 
Boxcar Rocks (Chinese Wall) 
Breakneck 
Casparis Bouldering (The Ridge) 
Chickies Rock 
Coburn 
Coll's Cove Bouldering 
Delaware Water Gap NRA, PA 
Downingtown boulders 
Governor Stable 
Haycock Mountain (Nockamixon) 
Hempfield Area High School 
Hunter's Rocks (Rocky Ridge Natural Area) 
Indian Rocks 
Indoor Walls 
Kennedy's Mill 
Knobs (Rob's Knob), The 
Lehigh Gorge State Park 
Lion's Den  
Lost Crag, The 
McConnells Mill State Park 
Milk Stone Boulders 
Mocanaqua (Shickshinny) 
Morgan Highway 
Mount Gretna 
Narrows, The 
Nay Aug Park  
Ohiopyle State Park  
Peavine Island 
Philadelphia 
Pittsburgh 
Pondbank (White Rocks and Brown Rocks) 
Port Clinton Crag 
Ralph Stover State Park (High Rocks) 
Rim Rock 
Rim, The 
Rock Run  
Safe Harbor 
Shaffer Rocks (The Hermitage) 
Susquehanna River, Muddy Run  
Tohickon Valley Park 
Tumbling Run 
Walnut Bottom 
Whiskey Springs 

Pennsylvania 


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Administrators: Justin Johnsen, Tom Erickson
Submitted By: jeremyadams on Jan 28, 2007

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The beautiful finger crack 3-star (V1) at Haycock ...

Description 

The Keystone State is home to a variety of cragging, whatever your style. But it's the bouldering on diabase, gritstone and sandstone that are world class. While the diabase areas are well documented (mainly because they are in the eastern part of the state where all the people are) - the gritstone bouldering in western PA is somewhat unknown and OUT OF THIS WORLD! Think Coopers Rock is a good gritstone area? There are at least 3 gritstone areas in PA that beat Coopers in terms of concentration, number of problems and quality of climbs. One area near Johnstown is more concentrated than the Happy Boulders with far better rock. Haven't climbed on gritstone? Well there is a reason it's called "God's own rock." Climb a bunch on gritstone and it will ruin you for all other rock types. Yosemite granite? Piece of crap. The unreal friction for your feet and hands and beautiful classic shapes on gritstone yield the most amazing fun (or frustrating) sequences you will ever climb on rock. PA probably has more gritstone than bloody England. Why doesn't anyone know about it? Well no one lives in west central PA and for the lucky few of us who have discovered this stuff we've been too busy putting up climbs and finding new gems to bother documenting.

For roped climbing, there are many worthwhile local areas tucked into Penn's Woods.

The largest sport crags in eastern Pennsylvania are Birdsboro Quarry and Safe Harbor, both bolted on man-made post-industrial rock cuts. In the western half of the state, the Lost Crag offers the most clip-and-climbs.

Toprope and trad tends to be single pitch, on cliffs eroded on the sides of rivers. Some of the tallest routes in the state are on Mount Minsi in the Delaware Water Gap.

Ice climbing can be found, often on waterfalls, mostly scattered through the northern half of the state. The number and quality of ice climbs is highly dependent on the weather that year. Some predictable ice forms every year at the Narrows and Ricketts Glen (nobody has written up RG ice on Mountain Project yet, but hikebikeclimb offers ice beta).

The rock varies from sticky gritstone and conglomerate, exquisite sandstone, and crisp quartzite, to some overused polished choss and looose machine-cut walls.

When neighborhood crags get old, PA is close enough for weekend road trips to the Gunks, the New and the Red.

As a Mid Atlantic state, Pennsylvania gets hot and muggy summers and somewhat cold winters. Despite the cities' stereotypes, Pennsylvania gets more rain on average than Seattle. Luckily Pennsylvania sees far more sunny days than the Pacific Northwest, so things dry out pretty fast after a downpour.

All the rain grows lush forests and undergrowth, including poison ivy - some of it ridiculously large by late summer. Remember, "leaves or three, let it be."

The only poison snakes are Timber Rattlesnakes, who usually have the good manners to warn before striking, and Copperheads, who don't. Both are common but not frequently seen throughout the state.

Many crags here are on or near State Game Lands. Find out when hunting season is before you go there, and wear orange during deer season (or find another place to climb).


Getting There 

Via major highways.


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Pennsylvania:
Jenn Savage   V2     Boulder, 10 feet   Mount Gretna : Colflesh Area
Porcelain   V3+     Boulder, 15 feet   Mount Gretna : Upper Matrix
Fallside   V4-5     Boulder, 16 feet   Ohiopyle State Park : Fern Point Boulder
Year of the Dragon   V6     Boulder, 8 feet   Mount Gretna : Upper Matrix
The Cranking   V9     Boulder, 18 feet   Whiskey Springs : Cranking Area
Ten High   V10     Boulder, 18 feet   Whiskey Springs : Cranking Area
Flying Dutchman   5.5     Sport, 70 feet   Ohiopyle State Park : School House Crag
Osprey   5.6 PG13     Trad, 3 pitches, 170 feet   h. The High Wall : 3. High Wall Right
Itching to Climb   5.7+     Sport, 1 pitch, 40 feet   Birdsboro Quarry : a. Main Wall
Solstice   5.7+     Sport, 80 feet   Ohiopyle State Park : Maple Wall
Neanderthal   5.8+     Trad, 2 pitches, 105 feet   Ralph Stover State Park (Hi... : c. Neolithic Wall
Orange Sunshine   5.9     Sport   Birdsboro Quarry : b. Orange Sunshine Wall
Autumn Arch   5.10b     Sport, 1 pitch, 85 feet   Safe Harbor South : f. Autumn Arch Sector
Voyage of the Damned   5.11a PG13     Trad, 3 pitches, 150 feet   Mount Minsi : f. Land of the Giants
Hydroman   5.11a/b     Sport, 1 pitch   Safe Harbor South : j. Hydroman Sector
Shifticus   5.11     Sport, 1 pitch, 90 feet   Ohiopyle State Park : Maple Wall
Natural Mystic   5.12-     Sport, 90 feet   Ohiopyle State Park : School House Crag
Loggia   5.12-     Sport, 85 feet   Ohiopyle State Park : Maple Wall
Wonderama   5.12b     Sport, 1 pitch, 80 feet   Safe Harbor South : f. Autumn Arch Sector
Hinterland (second anchors)   5.12d     Sport, 1 pitch, 80 feet   Birdsboro Quarry : f. Big Wall
Browse More Classics in Pennsylvania

Featured Route For Pennsylvania
Planet of the Apes, V2, Governor Stable

Planet of the Apes V2  PA : Governor Stable : Circuit
Possibly the best V2 at GS. Start sitting with right hand on big jug and left in good slot. Climb up the arete and top out left or right, either way it's super cool....[more]   Browse More Classics in PA


Photos of Pennsylvania Slideshow Add Photo
A great quartzite roof in south-central PA.

A great quartzite roof in south-central PA.

Bad Voodoo

Bad Voodoo

Climbers toproping Glen Onoko Lower Falls.

BETA PHOTO: Climbers toproping Glen Onoko Lower Falls.

Me on a redpoint attempt of extra stout.

Me on a redpoint attempt of extra stout.

JAG fires the 12c crux throw

JAG fires the 12c crux throw

JAG sets sail on "The Voyage of the Damned"

JAG sets sail on "The Voyage of the Damned"

susquehanna

susquehanna

The Open Face

The Open Face

White Rocks as seen from the Cumberland Valley

White Rocks as seen from the Cumberland Valley

Pulling the first roof on Kaya 5.11b Schoolhouse Crag.  Ohiopyle State Park, PA

Pulling the first roof on Kaya 5.11b Schoolhouse C...

Top of the "Eye of the Needle" 5-7 Sport Route.

Top of the "Eye of the Needle" 5-7 Sport Route.

The undercling move

The undercling move

Classic V3 Arete High Left

Classic V3 Arete High Left

Jeremy traversing along Rock Run

Jeremy traversing along Rock Run

First Ascent of King Kong V5+

First Ascent of King Kong V5+

Tanya Chupa climbing Silver Sheet (WI4- Delaware Water Gap)

Tanya Chupa climbing Silver Sheet (WI4- Delaware W...

F.E. Walter

F.E. Walter

Breakneck is a SWPA gem that has both sport climbing and bouldering.

Breakneck is a SWPA gem that has both sport climbi...

Sam Weir on the Standard Bowers Arete V5 - Ghostown

Sam Weir on the Standard Bowers Arete V5 - Ghostow...

Brian McCall on Two Top v4 - Ghost town

Brian McCall on Two Top v4 - Ghost town

Amanda Sonon on Angry Dragon v2 - J-town

Amanda Sonon on Angry Dragon v2 - J-town

Amanda Sonon on the Brain v1 - J-town

Amanda Sonon on the Brain v1 - J-town

Brian McCall on The Torch v3 - Stonenation

Brian McCall on The Torch v3 - Stonenation


Comments on Pennsylvania Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated May 16, 2013
By Brian Adzima
From: Pittsburgh
May 19, 2007

Not exactly a destination, but if you find yourself living here there is enough to keep oneself entertained between weekly trips out of state.

By Ladd Raine
Administrator
From: Plymouth, NH
Dec 18, 2007

Check out this Picture posted on that other site for locations of climbing destinations and their access status.

www.rockclimbing.com/images/photos/assets/8/360998-work-PA_R>>>

Here

Photo: Jason

By Chris Duca
Administrator
From: Hinesburg, Vermont
Dec 19, 2007

As someone who grew up in the greater Delaware Valley (suburb of Philly), I can attest to the diversity, quality, AND quantity of rock in PA. Granted, the random bridge is bolted to hell(long live the Henry Ave. Bridge!!), but there exists some extremely great rock (Diabase) west of Philadelphia on Haycock Mt. and Mt. Gretna. I'd liken this rock type to gritstone--very grainy and full of friction. Not necessarily a destination, but if you are traveling through the area and have a day to kill, both areas are a must to check out.

By Rob Holzman
Oct 29, 2008

visit paclimbing.com for information and climbing guidebooks for Pennsylvania.

By mukesh
Mar 10, 2009

Pennsylvania's diverse geography also produces a variety of climates. Straddling two major zones, the southeastern corner of the state has the warmest climate. Greater Philadelphia lies at the southernmost tip of the humid continental climate zone, with some characteristics of the humid subtropical climate that lies in Delaware and Maryland to the south. Moving toward the mountainous interior of the state, the climate becomes markedly colder, the number of cloudy days increases, and winter snowfall amounts are greater. Western areas of the state, particularly cities near Lake Erie, can receive over 100 inches (254 cm) of snowfall annually, and the entire state receives plentiful rainfall throughout the year.
---------------
mukesh
Drug Intervention Pennsylvania Intervention Pennsylvania

By Doyle
Apr 9, 2009

Western Pennsylvania has numerous excellent areas, although none are well known to outsiders. Breakneck, Lost Crag, McConnell's Mills State Park, and Coll's Cove are but a few.

Coopers Rock State Park is a huge area of excellent rock, just over the state line near Morgantown, West Virginia.

By ClimbPHX.com
From: Mesa AZ
Jul 7, 2009

Is there any climbing in King of Prussia Area ... Im going for a job and wanted to see if there was anything I might want to check out while IM there...
email me at shiloh@winbuyer.com

Thanks guys!

Shiloh
Phoenix, AZ

By Kenny Clark
From: State College, PA
Apr 11, 2011

I'm moving soon to State College. How is this guidebook for PA climbing: bluebiner.com/all-pa-guidebooks.html

By molony
Apr 15, 2011

Ken, don't waste your money. The author of that book took more than a few personal liberties in recording things accurately. Many climbs have been re-named and re-graded, in addition to the faulty information about first ascents. My advice, find some locals to get information. I only moved here a short while ago, and they've been much more than helpful and friendly with everything. Hope that helps

By Johnrock
Sep 6, 2011

The pennsylvania guide book is a true waste of money. The beta you can get from this site is so much better. Every area description in the book begins with "the best rock in pennsylvania". It seems that the author credits himself with fa's of just about everything in the book. It was a long wait for a book that is only good for starting fires with.

By Bradclymber
Sep 19, 2011

Not sure what is meant by the last comment as MP.com has very little info on PA at all. Sure there are a few listed areas for PA on this site but there are hardly any topos and sketchy or no directions for a lot of areas. For example www.mountainproject.com/v/the-pinnacle-area/106957079
I think this site is a great site, don't get me wrong, but it really only has brief descriptions of Pennsylvania's areas.

By Justin Johnsen
Administrator
From: Sacramento, CA
Sep 20, 2011

Hey Brad, the Pinnacle's page isn't the best example, as I just created it to keep on my to do list, and I'm still collecting info to expand it. But many areas in PA (here on MP) are indeed skeletons.

Like you, I like the MP interface, and wish it had more local content (like rockclimbing.com, which has been documenting PA areas for many years). I volunteered to be the PA admin to help organize what's here, but I also contribute content for places I climb that have no access questions. I encourage you, and other local climbers that like MP's usability, to do the same!

I have no problem with guidebooks, and use the few I get my hands on to develop content here - especially for places I haven't climbed yet. I'm also collecting all the history I can, written or verbal. There are bound to be some errors, but as we discuss these things here in the public record, we can correct them.

MP is a guide to climbing areas above all else. If it helps me find a new crag to climb, that's valuable, even if I don't know the name or consensus grade of a route when I'm on it. There's such a thing as too much beta too! But I'm doing my best to flesh out areas in PA with coords and basic directions, even if they have no route specifics yet.

Looking forward to working with PA's contributing climbers!

Justin

By Bradclymber
Sep 20, 2011

Thanks Justin,

Wasn't trying to nock the Pinnacle area it was just what I happened on. Keep up the good work.

By Eliott Morris
Jan 3, 2012

glad someone else mentioned the liberties taken in the PA guidebook. Always giving himself credit for FA's in nearly every area in PA .. the Bob Horan of pennsylvania. As someone who spends more time scouting and scrubbing boulders than actually climbing, it would take 30 + years to have as many FA's in as many areas as he claims.

By Rob Holzman
Jan 5, 2012

You're pretty close, Ive been climbing for just about 30 years in Pennsylvania. And yes it was a lot of work--hours of placing bolts, anchors, and tons of bouldering.


As for accuracy of FA info in my book, all I can say is I mention dozens and dozens of Pennsylvania's best climbers that I have climbed with personally over many years or contacted to research this guide. If you feel any info in my book is in error, there names are well documented, feel free to contact them and I will gladly change any info you find incorrect.

Cheers
Rob Holzman

By scott m
Jan 5, 2012

Thank you Rob for all your time researching all these areas. This guide is a great way to explore PA. It might not be complete for some but it is great for exploring some of the great crags in our state. This guide makes it easy for many to go explore some new areas beside spending everyday climbing the same old crags. Great job Rob. Buy the book if you want to travel. If your happy only climbing your local crag don't waste your time. Get out there with the guide book and explore. Thank you Rob.

By Rick Mix
Apr 21, 2012

Pa rocks! And just think, if you want to write a guidebook you don't have to go mucking about with a bunch of facts. Just print whatever comes to mind or sounds good. Awesome!




eg: Mojo @ Hunters was put up by Randy Burks circa '88 (or earlier)
He and I added the sit sometime shortly after that. Come to think of it, we did quite a few routes that never got recorded, and thence renamed,regraded, etc. Don't really care too much about that, but I do care about guidebook authors just randomly making stuff up rather than doing WORK and RESEARCH before going to press. I know, that's crazy talk, but it would be nice to see effort put forth.

Sorry 'bout the rant.


Rick Mix

By Rob Holzman
May 9, 2012

Dear Rick, and above unknown users,

As mentioned above, I did an inconceivable amount of research for this guidebook. As mentioned above, and for the past 10 years to the state College folks:

My book clearly states the names of climbers dating back to 1968 at Hunters, these are not "made up". I have to consider that dozens of climbers I contacted to research are telling me the truth. If you feel anything is in error--like climbers who told me they climbed Mojo long before 1988. Then "their" names are mentioned in my book. Feel free to contact "them" just like I did and check the facts just like I did. This is really an issue with the many climbers who provided me with this history not with me.

This argument has gotten pretty old over the last decade guys.

Thanks for your consideration
Cheers
Rob H

By Nic Lazzareschi
Dec 29, 2012

Anyone know how the ice conditions are?

By Jim Bowers
Dec 30, 2012

Well first off I'd like to respectively disagree that PA is not a "destination" area. The diabase, gritstone and sandstone bouldering areas in PA are definitely world class. While the Diabase areas are well documented (mainly because they are in the eastern part of the state where all the people are) - the gritstone bouldering in Western PA is somewhat unknown and OUT OF THIS WORLD! Think Coopers rock is a good gritstone area? There are at least 3 gritstone areas in PA that beat Coopers in terms of concentration, number of problems and quality of climbs. One area near Johnstown is more concentrated than the Happy boulders with far better rock. Haven't climbed on gritstone? Well there is a reason it's called "God's own rock." Climb a bunch on gritstone and it will ruin you for all other rock types. Yosemite granite? Piece of crap. The unreal friction for your feet and hands and beautiful classic shapes on gritstone yield the most amazing fun (or frustrating) sequences you will ever climb on rock. PA probably has more gritstone than bloody England. Why doesn't anyone know about it? Well no one lives in west central PA and for the lucky few of us who have discovered this stuff we've been too busy putting up climbs and finding new gems to bother documenting.

Another reason PA climbing gets no respect is the unfortunate Rob Holtzman guidebook -which does a spectacular job of perpetuating the myth that PA is a not a particularly great climbing destination. Part of the problem with Rob's guidebook is it's focus on Eastern PA (where Rob did most of his climbing - and it's pretty much a book about Rob). While the Diabase in eastern PA is really good stuff to climb on, most of the other stuff in Eastern PA is not so good. You wouldn't know that from reading Holtzman's guide. My friend Brian McCall and I have been on a quest to climb at every bouldering area in PA and I can't recall the number of times we checked out one of Rob's areas that he absolutely raves about - only to find a couple of chossy boulders not worth the walk. Provided you able to find some of the areas mentioned in Rob's guide (providing good clear directions is not Rob's best asset) the reality of the rock vs Holtzman's assessment of the area creates a pretty low bar for the quality of PA climbing.

So my advice for someone contemplating PA climbing? Talk to a local. PA has the best bouldering in the Northeast - by far.

Jim Bowers - who has been climbing in PA for 40 years.

By Adam Pudliner
Jan 3, 2013

I love PA and have been climbing here for a while now. Where are the angry dragon and the brain boulder problems in johnstown? Also, where are the Standard Bowers Arete and Two Top problems? Great posts, I love learning new places to climb in PA.

Adam

By Justin Johnsen
Administrator
From: Sacramento, CA
Feb 4, 2013

Thanks Jim, I included some of your write up in the main description for PA.

By Kevin Martin
3 days ago

In the description, a bouldering area near Johnstown is mentioned - which specific area is being referred to??