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Pennsylvania cracks
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By Larry S
Mar 4, 2013
The wife and I road-trippin on the Connie.

Looks like the wife and I will be there 22nd thru 25th.

Last time I was there we camped in my truck in the berry hollow rd parking lot. We only stayed 1 night. I saw some people camped on the approach in. It's prohibited above 2800', so around the peak isn't allowed, but along the approach before the shelter, or below the reflector oven are.


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By Seth Derr
From harrisburg, pa
Mar 4, 2013
Hey there!

I slept right outside the shelter the first night there, and in the cave below the reflector oven the second night. I don't know if that's technically below 2800 feet or not but it's gotta be close. I'll probably get there late friday night and hike up to the shelter and sleep there, then finish the walk to the climbing in the morning. As long as it's not supposed to rain i'm not going to bother with a tent.


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By Larry S
Mar 4, 2013
The wife and I road-trippin on the Connie.

What's the cave situation like? I'd love to not have to carry a tent up there.


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By Seth Derr
From harrisburg, pa
Mar 4, 2013
Hey there!

Rad. If it rained you'd probably get a little wet though, maybe. Big enough for 6 people if you pack in. There are other outcroppings and big boulders nearby that may also offer some shelter.


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By Jake Jones
From Richmond, VA
Mar 4, 2013
Me and the offspring walking back to the car after a day of cragging.

I think I'm just gonna do a balls early one day deal. I only live about 2.5 hours from Berry Hollow. My plans are to do SF, attempt Bushwhack Crack, and flail around on OMG. They're the same grade, but OMG is a lieback enduro crack and BC is jammable i.e. doable for me. I also might hit PATC and run up some of the easier stuff if there's time. Some good moderates down there. Rusty Bong and Dobie come to mind.

I've never been down to the Wall that Dreams are Made Of where BC is. I'm going up on the 9th with a non-climbing buddy (that wants to do the hike) for a little recon to find and see how far away WTDAMO actually is. That way I can get a good bearing on how much time I can spend on each.

I'll have a couple people with me, so it sounds like there should be quite a bit of climber traffic that weekend between PA and VA guys. Good times. I know Seth has been there recently so if anyone going needs any approach beta, he's a good source. If you've never been there before and don't have your shit wired, it can be frustrating. There are several stretches that look very similar leaving you thinking that you're somewhere you actually are not.

Hope the weather's good. See you guys up there. Be safe too. An evac outta there is a costly and complex ordeal.


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By Jake Jones
From Richmond, VA
Mar 4, 2013
Me and the offspring walking back to the car after a day of cragging.

Seth Derr wrote:
and in the cave below the reflector oven the second night.


The cave on the way to RO- to climber's right of the routes? Holy shit. I considered that once, could be a great springtime option for staying overnight. I saw a bear in that thing about 2 years ago. No bullshit. Make plenty of noise. It goes without saying, but if you're going to stay on the mtn, string any and all food up well away from you.


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By Seth Derr
From harrisburg, pa
Mar 4, 2013
Hey there!

We slept there in January. It was great. And yes even though it was january we were still scared of bears. Bushwhack isn't all that far from the base of OMG. Just keep walking down the hill. Was trying to go down on the 9th and climb on the 10th but it's not working out so far.


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By The Stoned Master
Administrator
From Pennsylvania
Mar 4, 2013
Day Lily.

I have a friend who's stayed in the cave. Said it was fine and much nicer for climbing.(since its around climbs). Sounds like a bear bag is smart. I LOVE bears, freakin cool creatures and have had to deal with them at camp and at home, not fun when they want something of yours.


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By Seth Derr
From harrisburg, pa
Mar 4, 2013
Hey there!

Jake Jones wrote:
I think I'm just gonna do a balls early one day deal. I only live about 2.5 hours from Berry Hollow. My plans are to do SF, attempt Bushwhack Crack, and flail around on OMG. They're the same grade, but OMG is a lieback enduro crack and BC is jammable i.e. doable for me. I also might hit PATC and run up some of the easier stuff if there's time. Some good moderates down there. Rusty Bong and Dobie come to mind. I've never been down to the Wall that Dreams are Made Of where BC is. I'm going up on the 9th with a non-climbing buddy (that wants to do the hike) for a little recon to find and see how far away WTDAMO actually is. That way I can get a good bearing on how much time I can spend on each. I'll have a couple people with me, so it sounds like there should be quite a bit of climber traffic that weekend between PA and VA guys. Good times. I know Seth has been there recently so if anyone going needs any approach beta, he's a good source. If you've never been there before and don't have your shit wired, it can be frustrating. There are several stretches that look very similar leaving you thinking that you're somewhere you actually are not. Hope the weather's good. See you guys up there. Be safe too. An evac outta there is a costly and complex ordeal.


Yeah i have at least 2, probably 3 people coming with me that weekend as well. Should be a really good time.


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By The Stoned Master
Administrator
From Pennsylvania
Mar 11, 2013
Day Lily.

I want to share a new discovery. My friend and I found a line (on the left facing wall in the Coroners Area to the right of sawtooth and that 5.4 corner at pond bank) that goes from hands to fingers going vertically, the crack continues for 20ft +/- but traverses left (towards the main wall where sawtooth is) at finger width (give/take) then does vertical again (flakes out at corner then is clean splitter again going vertical) then that crack ends and another appears (1ft to the right away from main wall) that is also finger splitter that goes about +/- 4ft vertically, this ends right below a small roof that also has a finger crack through it! The bulk of the climb isn't on blocky terrain like a lot of pond bank, its actually solid rock. Beautiful.

From here its over, I think you could set up an anchor and belay 2nd or "solo" up 5.0, 5.1 terrain to the top and build the anchor then walk off (I left some webbing for rapp but definitly inspect).

Its vertical for first +/- 10-15ft then its ALL overhanging from there. There's a catch to this "higher level" crack climb: you can't use the main wall and you have to stick to the crack. The feet aren't ideal on and around the traverse (makes it fun!), there will be key smears for sure. If you "cheat" (using face holds and putting feet on main wall) the climb will be much easier.

Its a new project for me (I'm not strong enough as there is finger tip sections that are brutal!) And if you're looking to try something new that involves crack technique please join us! If you send it let us know. Enjoy!

P.s its new to me/us. Not in guides anywhere and I've never heard it mentioned ever so if you've climbed it let me and the world know please. Id be very surprised if somones cleanly climbed just the cracks (its 1 long continuous crack, then 1 4ft, then the crack in the roof so a crack system).


I have pics but computer died so ill post when I can. This line is worthy of attention.


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By The Stoned Master
Administrator
From Pennsylvania
May 26, 2013
Day Lily.

I just wanted to state, in case you were hungry for a new offwidth roof crack, that I found a sweet new problem. Its at (you would have never guessed, I wouldn't have) White Rock Acres. I put it on mtn proj already. The start is gnarly and you're totally upside down. I didn't get close to finishing it though...

The only hand jam spot, the rest is stacks/chicken wings/flailing ackwardly, fists etc.
The only hand jam spot, the rest is stacks/chicken wings/flailing ackwardly, fists etc.


the start is in the back.
the start is in the back.


The splitter continues all the way to the top of the boulder!
The splitter continues all the way to the top of the boulder!


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By The Stoned Master
Administrator
From Pennsylvania
May 28, 2013
Day Lily.

If you're just coming in see my last post. I named the project Bubba and named the boulder he Bubba boulder. It sits directly down from but in front of the Main Wall at White Rock Acres.

If you get on it, send it let me know! I will also be working it. I'm sure it'll take more than a few trys to figure out for me. This kind of upside down offwidth is new to me. Exciting.


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By joeforte
From palmerton, pa
May 29, 2013

I will put a disclamer on this post: Most of the best climbing in PA is on private, and/or access sensitive land. I will not talk publicly about areas whose access is in question. Here is my "access appropriate" list. PM me for any questions.

Favorite cracks in Eastern PA:

Crackshot in Bear Valley - 300' crack climb with bullet scars from the FA. 15 foot tall tree fossils nearby. Hanging belay in the remnants of a 3 foot iron concretion.

Voyage of the Damned in the DWG - Who can turn down a big, safe, exposed, juggy roof?

Gorgeous Crack in the Lehigh Gorge - Harder than it looks, and always a good tango. Finish on the Gorgeous face for a happy ending!

Marge's Curves at Boxcar - Great intro to the climbing and gear placement here, with a fun runout pebble slab at the end to keep things spicy.

No Name Crack at Moc - A local testpiece at 5.11d.

Obnoxious partner at Stover - A true-to-the grade 5.8 offwidth.

3 Star at Haycock - A real beauty to run laps on.


There are a handful of unclimbed cracks in PA, most of which are on private property, and will not be discussed on here. There are also a few unclimbed cracks on public land (mostly in the form of old aid lines). Most of the areas listed in the PA guidebook have a crack or two that have not been freed. Get on it young bucks, before I have to dust off my aliens!


Just a bit of PA crack lore:

PA has cracks on cliffs that were made with concrete saws.

PA has great cracks to builder (there is even a buildering guide to one of our biggest cities).

PA has cracks with bolts along their entire length. :-(

There is a beautiful orange dihedral in the coal region that goes on for several pitches. I mean spectacular climbing, but there is a catch. It also requires a boat and/or traversing over an acid-mine drainage pool, with a hanging belay over said pool. Boy do I love PA climbing... Enjoy!


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By The Stoned Master
Administrator
From Pennsylvania
May 29, 2013
Day Lily.

I pm'ed you Joeforte. You have my attention for sure.


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By The Stoned Master
Administrator
From Pennsylvania
May 23, 2014
Day Lily.

"Bubba" the offwidth roof crack was sent. However it wasn't done in "pure" offwidth technique/style, I had to use some face holds. Add it to the list however! Id love to see someone and/or send it myself using purely offwidth techniques: just hand stacks, chicken wings, arm bars, heel to toe camming, knee locks, etc, etc.


Bubba.
Bubba.


Bubba
Bubba



Any other cracks that are newly discovered and/or received first ascents lately?


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By Cor
May 24, 2014
black nasty

Stoned duder,

Go climb my AstroBoy problem at Gretna..
I think you will like it. Crack OW! And it's pure too.

Cheers!


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By The Stoned Master
Administrator
From Pennsylvania
May 24, 2014
Day Lily.

Cor, did you do the FA for Astroboy? If you did awesome vision! I could see many boulderer's passing that upside down vagina looking boulder/problem up, not seeing a problem that starts in the back. Regardless great recommendation!

It took me a lot of trys, over several years, over several sessions and lots of bruises and raw skin lost to send that beast. That's my favorite problem at Gretna hands down! As of last fall I could do from the start to the crux, from the crux to the top out, but I could not link the two. Earlier this spring I finally figured out how to not release and swing at the crux thus being able to hold on. Hands down one of my favorite problems for sure! It is such a fun problem.

Astroboy is a much higher quality problem than Bubba no doubt.

I hope all is well man!


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By Cor
May 24, 2014
black nasty

Yep, I was glad to get that one first! It is funny how people walk by things for years with out "seeing" something so cool. I have a few routes here in the densely climber populated Boulder CO that people walked by for years... Including myself! Then one day I am like, wow look at that possible line! Boom new route opened up! It's like that beauty in the eye of the beholder thing.

But yeah, I really love the problem! Even more when I get to see my good friends cus & struggle on it. If I didn't have all those years of Vedauwoo OW practice, that thing would probably crush me!

Glad you enjoyed/still enjoy it!

Cheers man,
Cory


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By Michael Schneider
May 24, 2014

I put up some mixed stuff and rock routes here in the late 70's and 80's with Randy Wall(N.O.L.s) .The location and any name that the place went by back then is fuzzy I was sure it was around Honesdale/Clarks summit? but when I went looking for it in '97 I did not find it .Any one recognize it ? I'm never going to be young enough to go back
It was a good complex area that must be some thing to some one
Cheers

some where in PA help?
some where in PA help?


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By madskates
From SLC
May 24, 2014

Just throwing this out there but at McConnells Mill there are two small crack that are about 15 feet high and a couple routes that take gear over by breakneck bridge area. I've cleaned both over there and they both go at about 5.9. Just thought i would let everyone know if there interested in leading on gear!


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By The Stoned Master
Administrator
From Pennsylvania
May 24, 2014
Day Lily.

Michael I do not recognize that cliff. Give it time, with your picture and question out there someone may just see it and know.

Madskates thanks for adding those to the list! Good shit dude, Ill have to check them out for sure.


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By Matt Carroll
May 31, 2014
the new

in reference to the picture, could that be campbells ledge?


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By The Stoned Master
Administrator
From Pennsylvania
May 31, 2014
Day Lily.

bump!

matt carrol said/asked: in reference to the picture, could that be campbells ledge?

Michaels picture a few posts above is the referenced picture.

anyone know?


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By Matt Carroll
Jun 1, 2014
the new

took a look at the ledge today, and I'm pretty sure that isn't it...but then again camera angles can be deceptive!


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By Kirby
From DC
Jun 5, 2014

Hey Stoned--my friend and I are looking to come check out Pond Bank this Sunday. Looks like you've been doing a heckuva lot of development out there--we're excited to see it.

Two questions: Any advice about where to go first? Classics to hit?

and, he's very interested in getting a first ascent somewhere--are there any projects in the 9/10 range still waiting for a suitable, well, suitor? Anything harder than that do you think?

Thanks!

-Kirby


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