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By The Stoned Master
Administrator
From Pennsylvania
Feb 10, 2013
Day Lily.
Thanks I named the new wall exploration wall and its on mtn proj so you all can add to it also. The left most of the two pillars (pics tomorrow) has a nice splitter, thin, but it appears to allow protection and at least finger tips. There is one left leaning crack in the center that isn't bad looking at all. Could be classics I'm sure, BUT don't know yet. Also I discovered a beautiful finger splitter that goes for like 20ft or so maybe higher but is SUPER dirty. Ill be cleaning it out as it seems to be worth it.

I found possibly the hardest crack at pond bank: a over hanging boulder finger, hand, flaring sometimes crack. I found some really beautiful boulder lines. Question is is there anything there that is reasonable (v8 or under) for most? Some will be harder for sure, some v0 v1 range. I really found lots of potential. Let's explore what's there one boulder at a time.

Pictures tomorrow.

Also new hand/finger crack into the corner went. I top rope soloed it and it will accecpt pro. I think it goes at about 5.7/5.8. Vertical with some jamming, lybacking and stemming. Good feet. Fun route on north wall of craggy pines. Its solid. Route to be added shortly.

FLAG
By Wannabe
Feb 10, 2013
So how about an update on the condition of the crag. Would you say that the Jim's Throne area and Angulation wall are the most impacted with trash and graffiti or are some of the other areas worse off?

Nice FA by the way. It definitely looks like it needs more traffic from the photo though.

FLAG
By The Stoned Master
Administrator
From Pennsylvania
Feb 11, 2013
Day Lily.
The overhanging boulder crack (2 pics below. My pole is 3ft 6in high) looks sick, Ididnt wrap my head around the top out yet. Check out "brown rock boulders" an area i added to mtn proj. Also exploration wall which has the overhanging pillar (2 actually but 1 only has potential for protection) pictured below. 120ft wide wall by avg of 50ft high. Most likely will have some (many probably) 5.3s to moderates giving some more difficult routes but not nearly as many compared to moderates and below). I added 2 pics of overhanging roof Structures above craggy pines north face that look as though v graded bouldering lines exist. Check out pics on mtn proj under the names I've mentioned here. Let's start developing the new area, new eyes, different capabilities (we climb overhanging more these days)
Overhanging boulder crack
Overhanging boulder crack


Overhanging boulder crack.
Overhanging boulder crack.


overhanging pillar on exploration wall.
overhanging pillar on exploration wall.

FLAG
By The Stoned Master
Administrator
From Pennsylvania
Feb 11, 2013
Day Lily.
Also I found my project: this crack is parallel often and deep enough for pro. However it is filled and overflowing with dirt and moss. You see 20ft of splitter that may continue, it was hard to tell. I'm going to clean it. I think it could be pond bs premier true splitter. Solid rock its on. Also note: the rock on the north face crack is the same/very similar to the amazingly condusive rock the surf the boogie and angulation wall. Solid.
Zoom in. You'll see its got a lot of POTENTIAL. Wh...
Zoom in. You'll see its got a lot of POTENTIAL. Who knows til its climbed though.

FLAG
By The Stoned Master
Administrator
From Pennsylvania
Feb 11, 2013
Day Lily.
Wannabe: the new wall has a tree stand on the southern end but is clean (I saw no trash). Even past craggy pines where climbers rarely go there is broken glass and trash. The locals and hunters go/had gone where most climbers didn't. Trail maintainence (chain saw(s)) and trash pick up would do wonders.

Also! Building cairns across the boulder field at brown rocks to direct people to exploration wall and the various boulders. Trail creating and maintainence and trash pick up would be awesome. DCNR never wrote me back. Also C3PA hasn't emailed me back either about my bellefonte inquiry...

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By The Stoned Master
Administrator
From Pennsylvania
Feb 11, 2013
Day Lily.
I'm blown away this crack right in brown rocks hasn't created a reputation (named, beta passed down or publicly known). Well ill climb it and name it if no one knows its beta (has it even been climbed before, etc?).
overlooked crack?
overlooked crack?


Here's the vertical section. Short route maybe 25f...
Here's the vertical section. Short route maybe 25ft but solid looking.


Could this crack have been overlooked? Its short but sweet looking. Maybe can link it to a potential finger splitter on the adjacent wall (this potential splitter is at the top of the west facing wall and has potential. If the belayer stands at the corner the link up could actually be straight forward, that is rope management will be simple and smooth).

FLAG
By The Stoned Master
Administrator
From Pennsylvania
Feb 11, 2013
Day Lily.
If we really want to maximize pond banks potential (I'm uncomfortable saying this but its not my rock to control) there are at least 4 solid routes (one is 5.11+ and solid means rock and route/line) that would take bolts very well. Possibly/probable classics.

Me personally: boldy bolt (least amount to be safe) and only bolt the few, quality lines that are stereotypically sport route material/energy (sport route material = forced to use certain holds to ascend, not many hold options but what's there is 5.9, 5.10, 5.11 plus holds. Also no potential for pro on lead at all, no cracks just one solid piece of rock).

Thoughts?

Keep in mind the energy of the place is trad moderates. The 3 existing bolted routes are 2 5.10s and a 5.7/8. Let's keep with the tradition that if pond b is to get bolts they will be on harder, unprotectable lines with solid rock (let's keep the area quality).

When you see the overhanging pillar or the boulders remeber this is pond bank, pa not yosemite or gretna or gov stables, etc. If we appreciate what's there and maximize its potential (few bolts, record and share all route beta well on mtn proj at least for the guide app) we will have an amazing climbing area with amazing energy.

Please share what you do at pond b here on mtn proj for the future climbers and the guidebook app. Pond b = potential.

FLAG
By The Stoned Master
Administrator
From Pennsylvania
Feb 11, 2013
Day Lily.
Calling for snow this weekend. I'm going to check with my wife but I plan on being at pond b this weekend scouting the pillar and boulder crack and starting to clean out the project crack. regardless of the weather (rains the only deterrent) I'm there. If its nice enough (no wind and coldest being 30deg) some climbing (lead solo, top rope solo or if a balayers there just traditionally lead). Belayer or not I'll be there so anyones welcome.

Good things can come of cancelled old rag trips!

FLAG
 
By Michael C
From New Jersey
Feb 11, 2013
Mt Minsi, PA
Really awesome stuff, Stoned Master. Definitely want to hit this up on my "PA Road Trip".

FLAG
By The Stoned Master
Administrator
From Pennsylvania
Feb 11, 2013
Day Lily.
Right on Michael!

I posted directions/layouts for the areas (except the alpine buddha boulder) in comments section under the main pond b site on mtn proj. Hopefully they are clear; I know some who frequented white rocks didn't know brown rocks existed or didn't know where to find the cliff. Hopefully my directions should be straight forward/quality.

FLAG
By The Stoned Master
Administrator
From Pennsylvania
Feb 11, 2013
Day Lily.
I'm not working tomorrow and heading to pond bank. Will be there about sunrise to 1pm. Putting up the pillar route, that wrap around crack and cleaning the finger splitter. Top rope solo for me again. It'llbe nice to have someone out there to actaully lead these. Anyones welcome.

FLAG
By chopsticktown
From Blandon, PA
Feb 12, 2013
Thanks Stoned Master for trying to improve the area. I would love to check it out sometime. I'm trying climb more trad this year and maybe put up a few routes. Let me know if you are in need of a partner.

Thanks,
Roger

FLAG
By chopsticktown
From Blandon, PA
Feb 12, 2013
Oh, I just saw your new pictures too. I would be willing to develop areas with you. Those look awesome and have me motivated to plug some gear soon!

FLAG
By The Stoned Master
Administrator
From Pennsylvania
Feb 12, 2013
Day Lily.
Check out `born to be wild` and `five star crack` under brown rocks on the mtn proj site. `Born to be wild` was my project crack. It took me 2hr 30min but I cleaned it up good enough to send it. The 20ft splitter finger crack is money. `five star crack` is that wrap around crack I showed pics of (my pics to be on mtn proj tomorrow morn). I bouldered it twice and the vertical crack is out of this world, totally condusive to your jams. if you use the horizontal it'll go at about 5.6 and if you stick to the crack (I used the horizontal once and pure crack once) it goes at 5.8/5.9. Truly a 5 star route, can be lead also.

FLAG
By The Stoned Master
Administrator
From Pennsylvania
Feb 13, 2013
Day Lily.
I posted the pics of the newest pa crack route `born to be wild`. It cleaned up well. Check it out on mtn proj under brown rocks. The 20ft splitter is really fun goes about 5.7.

FLAG
By The Stoned Master
Administrator
From Pennsylvania
Feb 13, 2013
Day Lily.
I also added 2 pics to exploration wall. Close up of the crack on the overhanging block and a top view of the 2 cracks/flakes you can take to get to it. That's waiting for a first ascent, I only rapelled to get a better look. Can be lead safely I think, 1 obvious protection point is about 7ft up or so and is appears (maybe not) to be slightly flaring, but not a problem for the right pro.

FLAG
 
By Doug S
Feb 13, 2013
Edge of Time
Awesome. I'm headed out for a little PA road trip this weekend to get beta on some areas. Will you be at Pond Bank? If so, I may loop down that way. Always liked it and Schaffer.

FLAG
By The Stoned Master
Administrator
From Pennsylvania
Feb 13, 2013
Day Lily.
come check it out dude! I'm not sure if ill be there this weekend. 29 high Sunday and snow Saturday (for now). If Ido id love to meet up with you and climb for sure. Ill keep you posted

FLAG
By The Stoned Master
Administrator
From Pennsylvania
Feb 13, 2013
Day Lily.
Chopsticktown id love to climb with you. Come on down and well plug some pro and throw a few jams!

FLAG
By The Stoned Master
Administrator
From Pennsylvania
Feb 13, 2013
Day Lily.
I posted this similar comment on the exploration wall main site on mtn proj but I wanted to put it out there: the exploration wall is perfect for practicing multi pitch. Rope management and anchor building. No routes exist yet on the wall (I soloed some fun 5.2ish terrain but never put anything together or cleaned yet) yet so maybe some of the first ascents can have `pitches`. Great `practicing` for sure. To left of the overhanging block (never been.climbed) the wall breaks naturally into 3 pitches (short pitches of course) with nice belay ledges and some stout trees. We can create a rapell area leaving webbing and rap rings (I have some).

Some parts are 70 to 80ft I estimated, I only put 50ft on mtn proj. The height varies. Some bouldery/sportyer (yeah its a word) rock/lines exist on the left side with crimp edges, no cracks, etc.

A multi pitch `playground` is waiting for its first routes to be put up...

FLAG
By Larry S
Mar 3, 2013
The wife and I road-trippin on the Connie.
The Stoned Master wrote:
Planning climbing trips in Virginia on a PA thread...that's classic PA climbers right there. Spontaneity is healthy: let's have an unofficial old rag climb fest then. Share beta, ropes, food, music, stories possibly even around a camp fire? Some world class routes and new, just as motivated as myself, people sounds good to me. Everyones welcome to come celebrate crack climbing at one of our nations best quality (not quantit) spots with us.


So... Weekend of the 23rd, give or take a few days? Anyone else still interested in that?

FLAG
By The Stoned Master
Administrator
From Pennsylvania
Mar 4, 2013
Day Lily.
As of now is good for me.

FLAG
By Jake Jones
From Richmond, VA
Mar 4, 2013
Me and the offspring walking back to the car after...
Weather permitting, I'll be up there on the 23rd.

FLAG
By Seth Derr
From harrisburg, pa
Mar 4, 2013
Hey there!
I'll definitely be there from late on the 22nd until evening on the 24th. Praying to the flying spaghetti monster for good weather. I am soooo sick of bouldering.

FLAG
 
By The Stoned Master
Administrator
From Pennsylvania
Mar 4, 2013
Day Lily.
Unfortunatly my wife decided to commit to a wedding of an old friend on 3/23. I will not be able to make it.

I know how you feel seth. I've been bouldering, sport climbing and top rope soloing all winter! I'm ready to get out and place some gear, gain some elevation!

FLAG


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