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Pennsylvania cracks
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By Rick Mix
From Nederland, Colorado
Jan 4, 2013
I did a route that sure looks like the one pictured in the link for the "whale wall".
just west of Shamokin Dam, near Sunbury. Very odd scene with an obvious mine fire going on [smoke coming out of the ground].
If memory serves the rock was not quality.

FLAG
By Jason Lantz
Jan 4, 2013
All the stuff at bellfonte....

Mercury and Iodine at the main wall at Moqanaqua...

strider and a couple of finger cracks to the left at stoney ridge...

Hemlock at Tillbury...

FLAG
By The Stoned Master
Administrator
From Pennsylvania
Jan 4, 2013
Day Lily.
Thanks jason. Keep em coming guys; I appreciate the input and enjoy hearing/talking about PA rock (especially cracks).

FLAG
By Rick Mix
From Nederland, Colorado
Jan 4, 2013
There's quite a bit of crack climbing in the Allegheny NF. Too bad it's all conglomerate/grit that requires 7 rolls of tape per hand!
But seriously, Minister Creek does have some cracks.

FLAG
By chopsticktown
From Blandon, PA
Jan 5, 2013
There is a massive fingertip roof crack at Mocanaqua that according to the Blue Biner guidebook for PA has never been free climbed. It has been aided at A2 though. You walk along Paradise and go over the big coal hill while still following the half buried cliff line and then while walking for a few minutes you will come across it. I say its about 20 off the ground but goes on for about 40 or so feet.

Fingertip roof crack!
Fingertip roof crack!

FLAG
By Dan Cottle
Jan 6, 2013
Alvaro Arnal wrote:
From back in my day living in NEPA I remember there is a burly fingers roof crack at an area that we called the Devil's Kitchen. It's a small outcropping of rock above I-81 between Scranton and Clarks Summit. I believe this roof crack went at 12+/13-.

Is devils kitchen the same area as the one at summit point?

At the morgan highway ridge there is a horizontal finger tip roof crack like the one pictured above but likely a bit shorter than that. I have heard it has never been climbed but has been aided. There was gear left in it for a long time but I think someone got it out recently.

FLAG
By Alvaro Arnal
Administrator
From Aspen, CO
Jan 6, 2013
Pup Tent OS
Dan Cottle wrote:
Is devils kitchen the same area as the one at summit point?


Yeah same area. Park at Summit Point apartments and walk back to the cliff.

FLAG
By The Stoned Master
Administrator
From Pennsylvania
Jan 7, 2013
Day Lily.
There are two cracks at white rock acres that are side by side (similar to castor and pollux at seneca) and located at the rock outcrop/wall/crag just past the main/60ft wall. I climbed them a couple of years ago. 5.5/5.6ish.

Anyone know anything about them? Are they clean? Can you get consecutive jams? I don't remember the details and am unwilling to drive to the rock just to scout out these two routes.

FLAG
 
By The Stoned Master
Administrator
From Pennsylvania
Jan 7, 2013
Day Lily.
El crackitan and colemans at bellefonte do they have bolts at the top? Also is it walk off?

Thank you.

FLAG
By The Stoned Master
Administrator
From Pennsylvania
Jan 7, 2013
Day Lily.
In your experience, opinion, what is the hardest crack in PA?

Is there a concensus on the hardest crack climb in PA? Do we have any notorious cracks?

Besides the crack mentioned in this thread earlier is there any unclimbed (free) cracks?

PA (we) should create a PA crack circuit, have it be `official`. The circuit could be the all around (judged by many) most quality (hard or not) finger through chimney climbs in PA. It'll add some fun and spicyness to climbing in our state. What do you all think?

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By John Shippling
From morongo valley, ca
Jan 7, 2013
The Stoned Master wrote:
El crackitan and colemans at bellefonte do they have bolts at the top? Also is it walk off? Thank you.

both climbs are walkoffs, Ive climbed all over the united states and colmans a fag is by far the funnest crack climb ive ever done! I heard the quarry is open season again anyone else hear anything?

FLAG
By The Stoned Master
Administrator
From Pennsylvania
Jan 8, 2013
Day Lily.
Tomorrow 1/9 it is supposed to be 51 degrees and sunny. I have taken the day off of work and will be spending the day with my wife at whiskey springs.

Whiskey crack, big brack, horrible crack and any other crack that I see (in between boulders, etc) will be climbed. I'm bringing a pad, a six pack and a rope and gear (practice placing pro on lead at strenuous spots) for this `crack training day`.

Telling everyone in case someone wants to join.

FLAG
By Rick Mix
From Nederland, Colorado
Jan 10, 2013
SDI Crack is pretty tough. Most likely not the hardest. Hmmm, there was a very thin crack at the quarry that I was trying with Jimmy but then the whole left side of the dang thing fell off. Ah well.



As to your question of weather PA has any 'notorious'cracks. One does come to mind.

FLAG
By Bawls E. Climber
Jan 11, 2013
There are indeed some very long cracks at the Whale Wall. Somewhere I have some pictures taken around 2002 I'll try to locate them and get them posted.

FLAG
By robrobrobrob
Feb 5, 2013
Just thought of these in Bellefonte....Dismal world Left, and Dismal World Right..they go at about 5.7 or so.

But in between, up the flake, then traverse the hand crack out to a small crack that I never did finish off. I think it was 12b or something. Sexy Love Slots... If I recall the 13 is right next to that one.

FLAG
By The Stoned Master
Administrator
From Pennsylvania
Feb 6, 2013
Day Lily.
I'm blown away at how many cracks there are at bellefonte. Really exciting for me. I think bellefonte will give me enough that this season I wont have to leave PA that much!

Chopsticktown that roof crack looks amazing! I've come to know and love roof cracks. I'm going to seek it out and give her a go (well I dont know what the whole climb entails so at least taking the time to scout)

FLAG
 
By The Stoned Master
Administrator
From Pennsylvania
Feb 6, 2013
Day Lily.
Does anyone have a copy (digital or otherwise) of the/a guidebook for bellefonte? I would love it to have something indepth and solid for when I'm there.

I tried to get a hold of a certain local (jb) but haven't received a reply in at least a month and I dont want to nag the dude for beta when there is some out there.

I appreciate your time.

FLAG
By The Stoned Master
Administrator
From Pennsylvania
Feb 6, 2013
Day Lily.
This threads given me a new look on PA climbing (I am still compiling a database, slowly but doing it). So many quality routes, maybe not all old rag splitters (ill be there this weekend!) But fine routes.

I did some exploring recently and found 2 solid looking splitters at pond bank. They are most likely virgin as they are past where most even know to roam.

I wonder how many unknown cracks there are in PA because unless you're a crack climber you're not going to have an eye for them and most likely pass them up.

Keep your eyes open!

FLAG
By Seth Derr
From harrisburg, pa
Feb 6, 2013
Hey there!
The Stoned Master wrote:
maybe not all old rag splitters (ill be there this weekend!



Have fun dude. Get on Oh My God.

FLAG
By The Stoned Master
Administrator
From Pennsylvania
Feb 6, 2013
Day Lily.
Seth: that strawberry and bushwhack are on my list. 46 and perfectly sunny Saturday. Stoked!

FLAG
By Seth Derr
From harrisburg, pa
Feb 6, 2013
Hey there!
I've only been up there twice, the first time it was July (STUPID) and the second time was about a month ago when i was blessed with an upper resperatory infection the day before we went. made the approach just wonderful. Spent Saturday laid out in the cave at the reflector oven watching people have fun on Strawberry Fields after nearly od'ing on Dayquil then got screwed by snowmelt on Sunday that left all the cracks wet. Oh My God is the only thing i got to do, but that alone made it worth the hike up there. Can't wait to go back. Sounds like you'll have perfect weather.

FLAG
By Jake Jones
From Richmond, VA
Feb 6, 2013
Me and the offspring walking back to the car after...
Seth Derr wrote:
I've only been up there twice, the first time it was July (STUPID) and the second time was about a month ago when i was blessed with an upper resperatory infection the day before we went. made the approach just wonderful. Spent Saturday laid out in the cave at the reflector oven watching people have fun on Strawberry Fields after nearly od'ing on Dayquil then got screwed by snowmelt on Sunday that left all the cracks wet. Oh My God is the only thing i got to do, but that alone made it worth the hike up there. Can't wait to go back. Sounds like you'll have perfect weather.


It's an amazing place- even with the approach. I love that place. Hard to get people to go with me. I've been up four times. I've never been down to Bushwhack, but I want to try it even though I'll probably end up french freeing it. Dropped a TR on OMG and still couldn't make it. By the time I got to the wide part at the top I was pumped as hell from all the laybacking. Tried to jam it and was able to get a few, but was forced to layback for a lot of it. SF is amazing. Lots of quality granite there. For a casual day, go down the length of PATC wall just past the summit. The .7 to .9 range there is great. Watch out for tourons throwing shit off the top though. That's one thing I like about God's and RO. You generally don't have to worry about rocks being hurled down at you. You'll have a great time Stoned Master. Park at Berry Hollow on the western side of the mtn. Much more mellow approach. No real scrambling and almost 1000' less elevation gain to the summit. Have fun!

FLAG
By The Stoned Master
Administrator
From Pennsylvania
Feb 6, 2013
Day Lily.
Nice jake! Thanks for the heads up. Seth maybe we can share a rope some time down there? I'm sure ill make a few trips down there this season along with bellefonte.

FLAG
By Seth Derr
From harrisburg, pa
Feb 6, 2013
Hey there!
Yeah man i'd b psyched to get down there again. My schedule clears up toward the end of February.

FLAG
 
By Jake Jones
From Richmond, VA
Feb 6, 2013
Me and the offspring walking back to the car after...
Stoned, if you haven't been up there before, take someone that has. My first time up, I only found one of the crags I was looking for (it was in the springtime though, in late winter visibility is much better). In case you don't have the Horst guide for the area, and can't get your hands on one, the Old Rag section of the guide in its entirety is available here.

It may keep you from getting lost. I've heard people say everything from "it's an inaccurate POS" to "it's great and helped a lot". The topos helped me quite a bit. Have fun up there. Don't get injured though. It's quite a production getting someone off of that thing. Have fun man, you'll love it. You might even be the only ones up there. At 46 degrees, RO will be perfect.

FLAG


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