Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Pennsylvania cracks
View Latest Posts in This Forum or All Forums
   Page 1 of 6.  1  2  3  4  5   Next>   Last>>
Follow replies to this topic? Notify me at the top of web site.
1

Email me.
 
 
By The Stoned Master
Administrator
From Pennsylvania
Jan 4, 2013
Day Lily.
I am compiling a comprehensive list/database of PA cracks. I do not have a definition of a `crack climb` (personally for PA I say 4-5ft of continuous jammable crack but ultimately it doesn't matter) so if you think it to be a crack climb (even though not all crack possibly) then it shall be.

What are your favorites in PA? Please list location and brief description (ex. pigs in space, pond bank, 30ft overhanging hands to fist w/ small sections of continuous jamming)

Even if they`re not you're favorite which ones come to mind? Teeth cutters? Proving ground types?

Anyone know any good `between the boulders`? That is cracks that are not traditionally official climbs and are created by 2 boulders being next to eachother (think Gretna, etc)

Any cracks that you know aren`t in any guides? Come on share...

I have a nice collection for Central PA (I will post all when done) but not much elsewhere. I know they`re here just scattered and probably quick climbs. Remember chimneys and offwidths!

I appreciate your time and will share the list once done. Enjoy!

P.s. anyone already done this? If so I would be interested in the collection.

FLAG
By Larry S
Jan 4, 2013
The wife and I road-trippin on the Connie.
It's a boulder problem, but 3-Star at haycock jumps to mind.

I haven't climbed it yet, but Espresso at Mount Minsi (Delaware Water Gap) has a decent looking crack in it, it's probably just face climbing around the crack for gear though. Needs a little cleaning.

Crackalicious at Birdsboro laybacks a long inside corner crack.

FLAG
By The Stoned Master
Administrator
From Pennsylvania
Jan 4, 2013
Day Lily.
Boulder problems are welcome! Awesome contribution (to this thread at least). Thank you.

FLAG
By Alvaro Arnal
Administrator
From Aspen, CO
Jan 4, 2013
Pup Tent OS
From back in my day living in NEPA I remember there is a burly fingers roof crack at an area that we called the Devil's Kitchen. It's a small outcropping of rock above I-81 between Scranton and Clarks Summit. I believe this roof crack went at 12+/13-.

FLAG
By The Stoned Master
Administrator
From Pennsylvania
Jan 4, 2013
Day Lily.
Unknown PA route...
Unknown PA route...


Anyone know this climb?

Thanks Alvaro.

FLAG
By Larry S
Jan 4, 2013
The wife and I road-trippin on the Connie.
Urine Over Your Head at Mocanaqua climbs a crack into a chimney

Witches Brew (Direct) at Chickies finishes up with 20 feet of chimney

Locomotion at Safe Harbor has a decent slanting fingers crack above the roof.

Tradatrocity at Safe Harbor - Guide says "A few jam moves up high on this one"

Obnoxious Partner at High Rocks / Ralph Stover has some fists/offwidth

FLAG
By Larry S
Jan 4, 2013
The wife and I road-trippin on the Connie.
This page here shows some nice pictures and mentions something called "The Whale Wall", says it has 200' cracks on it. I don't know anything about it though.

paclimbing.com/featured_photos...

FLAG
By The Stoned Master
Administrator
From Pennsylvania
Jan 4, 2013
Day Lily.
I wonder if the `whale wall` is the whaleback formation outside of shamokin. Haven't been but heard (saw a pic also) the whaleback has beautiful splitters but heard nothing of 300ft wall or 200ft cracks as the web site says...maybe there are 2 fine crack areas with the name `whale` in them?

Good pics on that site.

FLAG
 
By Seth Derr
From harrisburg, pa
Jan 4, 2013
Hey there!
The Shuffler at Gretna (beside Crazy Game of Poker) and the other one beside Islander, can't think of the name right now but i know it's on the Gretna database here. There are a few at Governor Stable as well. Don't have my guidebook in front of me but if you don't come up with them by Monday i'll update.

FLAG
By Rick Mix
From Nederland, Colorado
Jan 4, 2013
Big corner is "Left Hand Eliminator" at Bellefonte. I seem to remember this thing being 5.6 or so, but it's been a long while.


El Crackitan-classic
Coleman is a Faggot-also classic
Joint Dislocator-ugh painfull and Hard.
Heads and Tails-still a crack it just happens to run left to right...
SDI Crack-Best to TR this one.
Welcome to Bedrock-see Heads and Tails above.


Have fun!

FLAG
By The Stoned Master
Administrator
From Pennsylvania
Jan 4, 2013
Day Lily.
Good ones Seth. I love serenity crack and warm up crack at Gretna and have the offwidth `astroboy` (think that's the name) on my list for my next trip there.

Gov Stable has a splitter finger crack I've only seen pics of that will be on the list for sure.

There is piton crack (finger 5.10) at blue run I love and am working the amazing glens roof crack at pond bank (at least 5.10 and the roof sticks out 4ft, I've pulled the roof twice but have yet to be able to get moving from there, love this climb).

Boxcar has that 5.6 splitter that is awesome (short, hands crack, fun and great for (anyone) beginners bc they could grip the pebbles on the inside if they desire)

Just sharing some.

FLAG
By The Stoned Master
Administrator
From Pennsylvania
Jan 4, 2013
Day Lily.
Rick those all at bellefonte? I messaged jim bowers but no reply as of yet. Id like to try bellefonte if the access scene isn't crazy. I live 1hr 15 mins and a central pa climber that isn't bad for such routes.

FLAG
By Seth Derr
From harrisburg, pa
Jan 4, 2013
Hey there!
Yup, Astroboy.

At GS, and again i'm not sure what it's called right now, but if you go just past the pyramid to the slabs there's a little jam/lieback crack. Juggernaut might be the finger crack to which you're referring. It is rad. Also just to the right of Herr Right is a fairly tall (for a boulder problem) crack. That Guy also comes to mind, and i know there's another offwidth out there but again the name escapes me. I assume you have Heaven at Gretna on the list already. Also on the Serenity boulder is Vigilante, the tall one on the front side of the boulder. Trying to think of more..

Another area to think about, although access is a bit sketchy, is Stoney Ridge. That place is littered with cracks.

FLAG
By Rick Mix
From Nederland, Colorado
Jan 4, 2013
Yeah those routes are all at Bellefonte.

As was mentioned in another thread, the Quarry faces NE and will be fairly snowy and cold this time of year. The upshot is that will decrease your chances of being caught. If I was around I'd give you a tour, but I'm a little more than an hour away!

FLAG
By PTR
From GA
Jan 4, 2013
A couple of random additions:

1. "5.10 crack" at Derry High Rocks (although closed by landowners).
2. At Pole Steeple there is a 5.6 overhang on the right side -- have done it dozens of times but not aware it has a name.
3. The Hermitage/Shaffer Rocks has some: Rappel Crack, Chockstone problem (now apparently called "Wedgies"), Lichen Lizard (easy).
4. Ralph Stover has a number of crack climbs: Obnoxious Partner crack, for example.

Good luck with your list.

FLAG
By Michael C
From New Jersey
Jan 4, 2013
Mt Minsi, PA
I want to know more about this Whale Wall. Info I've found on the net is sketchy at best.

FLAG
 
By robrobrobrob
Jan 4, 2013
Interesting definition of crack climb.

At Bellefonte, how about Manufracture? Is you're photo the 5.7(?) in the corner near Pep? I'll have to pull the guidebook and look at it.

WhiteRocks (mountainproject.com/v/pondbank... Actually some fun cracks around here.
Super Crack
Thin Crack
Glens Roof (something like that)

Chickies... roof crack might qualify.

Mockanaqua/Shikshinny... Cornflake Crack

Delaware water Gap has some crack moves... both on Tammany and Minsi. I wanna say Chieftain.. but could be wrong there.

Some cracks at Beartown.

Couple of crack moves on George of the Jungle at Coburn...

Spiderman (top) and Rappel Crack at hermitage,

Some crack climbs at StoneyRidge (Bowmanstown) but I think they are closed now.


Yeah.. Rick's suggestions are at Bellefonte. Well if I recall SDI is in the other quarry.

Man... it's been a while since I've thought of PA climbing. Moved to Colorado limestone country a few years ago.

FLAG
By The Stoned Master
Administrator
From Pennsylvania
Jan 4, 2013
Day Lily.
Stoney ridge is `littered` with cracks. I love the sound of that. Well access issues or not I'm still going to research/document the area. You've peaked my interest now, I've never heard of stoney ridge. Thank you

FLAG
By robrobrobrob
Jan 4, 2013
Here's some info on Stoney...
rockclimbing.com/routes/North_...

parking can be an issue, it's right behind a set of townhouses.

FLAG
By The Stoned Master
Administrator
From Pennsylvania
Jan 4, 2013
Day Lily.
Thanks Rob.

FLAG
By Seth Derr
From harrisburg, pa
Jan 4, 2013
Hey there!
I mean, "littered" might be a stretch. It's not Indian Creek or anything. But there are quite a few cracks out there. Cool little place.

FLAG
By Larry S
Jan 4, 2013
The wife and I road-trippin on the Connie.
Stoney has some stuff, but i haven't done much of it. Stump Crack is a classic, but it's not pure crack climbing. I've got a scan of an old guide I can e-mail you. Access there is "Sensitive/Tolerated", some of it is right behind people's houses, so you need to be quiet there.

FLAG
By The Stoned Master
Administrator
From Pennsylvania
Jan 4, 2013
Day Lily.
Larry, I would greatly appreciate the scanned guide. Any info/history on PA climbing is welcome. Thorspedigree@gmail.com is my e-mail. Thank you!

FLAG
By Seth Derr
From harrisburg, pa
Jan 4, 2013
Hey there!
There's a skethy .11a one move wonder at the far end of the wall that i thought was pretty cool. I think the name had something to do with the moon. Not sure, i've only been there once and a lot of it was wet, but walking along the wall it looked like there was plenty there to do.

FLAG
 
By robrobrobrob
Jan 4, 2013
Strider... is a classic. Especially if you're tall.

FLAG
By Jon Clark
From Philadelphia, PA
Jan 4, 2013
onsight soloing Atman
Larry S wrote:
Stoney has some stuff, but i haven't done much of it. Stump Crack is a classic, but it's not pure crack climbing. I've got a scan of an old guide I can e-mail you. Access there is "Sensitive/Tolerated", some of it is right behind people's houses, so you need to be quiet there.


And as such you shouldn't be spraying about the place to stangers on the internet especially when you haven't "done much of it". If you are that interested in helping the guy out, just PM him.

FLAG


Follow replies to this topic? Notify me at the top of web site.
1

Email me.
Page 1 of 6.  1  2  3  4  5   Next>   Last>>