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L to R R to L Alpha
All routes are trad and are on the finest quartzite rock. There are many moderate routes that are fantastic for the beginner to intermediate climber (5.7-5.9+), all offer protection that is superb and plentiful. On the more demanding routes (5.10R and above) the protection is small and a little tricky to place, but secure once fitted correctly. Most routes follow obvious cracks and all have some sort of rappel at the top (bring some ditch webbing in case the old rap anchors are crusty). The area is best in the summer, but can be climbed in fall (snow permitting). Not much for camping offered nearby, but for the truly determined camping is allowed anywhere within a quarter mile from Big Cottonwood river, no fires.
This crag lies on the south side of Big Cottonwood Canyon, above the Ledgemere Picnic area. Drive 1.4 miles past the neon sign at the mouth of the canyon, park at the camp or along the road to avoide paying a $2 fee that is enforced during the summer. To get to the crag, walk across the bridge into Ledgemere camp and head east (left) until an obvious high traffic talus slope presents itself wandering up the south side of the canyon. Follow the loose talus for two hundred yards or so, then break left (east) into a gully, (blue spray paint marks the mouth of the gully thanks to some obvious losers) . The routes are on the north facing wall, spread along it for a hundred yards or so.
16 Total Routes
Browse More Classics in Penitentiary Wall
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Penitentiary Wall:
Rehabilitation 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Tax Evasion 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Climb and Punishment 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 50'
Jailbait 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad, 1 pitch, 90'
Minimum Security 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 90'
Featured Route For Penitentiary Wall
Minimum Security 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R UT : Wasatch Range : ... : Penitentiary Wall
Minimum Security starts up the thin crack/seam just left of a tree. This is the first climb just right of the really wide crack called "Speed is of the Essence". The initial crack doesn't take any pro, so it would be a dangerous lead. Above, a flake affords small nut placements. The wall above has a bolt (1/4 incher) and a piton which climb through the crux. Apparently, the left arete is off route, which makes the route much harder....[more] Browse More Classics in UT
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