Penitentiary Wall  Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular Lat, Long:  40.6221, -111.7634 Map Page Views:  7,848. Good page?    Administrators:  Kristine Hoffman, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq, Tom Erickson Submitted By:  Adam Broadbent on Dec 29, 2001 Make this area a Favorite What's New   Print a Mini-Guide with routes Add Route  Add Photo  Add Comment  Add Event

BETA PHOTO: 1) Rehabilitation 2) Deception 3) Life Sentence...

Description 

All routes are trad and are on the finest quartzite rock. There are many moderate routes that are fantastic for the beginner to intermediate climber (5.7-5.9+), all offer protection that is superb and plentiful. On the more demanding routes (5.10R and above) the protection is small and a little tricky to place, but secure once fitted correctly. Most routes follow obvious cracks and all have some sort of rappel at the top (bring some ditch webbing in case the old rap anchors are crusty). The area is best in the summer, but can be climbed in fall (snow permitting). Not much for camping offered nearby, but for the truly determined camping is allowed anywhere within a quarter mile from Big Cottonwood river, no fires.

Getting There 

This crag lies on the south side of Big Cottonwood Canyon, above the Ledgemere Picnic area. Drive 1.4 miles past the neon sign at the mouth of the canyon, park at the camp or along the road to avoide paying a $2 fee that is enforced during the summer. To get to the crag, walk across the bridge into Ledgemere camp and head east (left) until an obvious high traffic talus slope presents itself wandering up the south side of the canyon. Follow the loose talus for two hundred yards or so, then break left (east) into a gully, (blue spray paint marks the mouth of the gully thanks to some obvious losers) . The routes are on the north facing wall, spread along it for a hundred yards or so.

The Classics

Featured Route For Penitentiary Wall

Deception 5.9 X  UT : Wasatch Range : ... : Penitentiary Wall

This climbs the right arete on the left-most slab. This slab also has Rehabilitation on it. This is a fun friction climb that stays either on the arete or just left of it....[more]   Browse More Classics in UT

Photos of Penitentiary Wall Slideshow

Add Photo

BETA PHOTO: Penitentiary Wall w/o lines