Route Guide - iPhone / Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New - School of Rock
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Penitente Canyon Anchor Replacement & Trail Repair Weekend Public Event
View Latest Posts in This Forum or All Forums
   Page 1 of 6.  1  2  3  4  5   Next>   Last>>
Follow replies to this topic? Notify me at the top of web site.
1

Email me.
 
By Mike Howard
Administrator
Feb 8, 2012
RGG silhouette

Penitente Canyon Anchor Replacement & Trail Repair Weekend
Public Event · Organized by Bob D'Antonio

Saturday, May 12, 2012
9:00am until 7:00pm
Penitente Canyon, San Luis Valley, Colorado
Penitente Canyon Anchor Replacement & Trail Repair Weekend. This is for all climbers, hikers or anyone who loves the Canyon and the work that volunteers and the BLM have done in the past. Show up and then get to work. Beer, Food, Bolts, Anchors, Tools and good vibes will be provided...Come and show some love to this very special canyon.

https://www.facebook.com/events/312974882081877/?ref=ts


FLAG
By Mike Howard
Administrator
Feb 8, 2012
RGG silhouette

I'm making a list of the Anchors and Bolts most in need of updating. Bob is not against modernizing routes so please drop us a note here or email me any suggestions to help us prioritize.


FLAG
By rob bauer
From Golden, CO
Feb 8, 2012

Is there much trail work to do? The area is quite flat and I just wouldn't have guessed there was much of that to do. To be fair, it's been years since I was there, but I'm just curious, as I may have sometime about then and don't want to stand around when it comes to "trail work." (I have nothing to contribute on anchors.) Thanks.


FLAG
By AndyMac
From Center, CO
Feb 8, 2012

Mr Wind needs new cold shuts for sure! Sheer Strength's 2nd bolt will pull out more than I like to see, Shady Lady has the same issue. Probably last priority but BBC?, or whatever route that is through the picnic structure, is supposedly missing the anchor bolts (per MP). We've still got 3 months of longer days in there so I'll remember any others when I come across them. See you all in May!


FLAG
By Monty
From Golden, CO
Feb 9, 2012
Just a teaser

It'd be great to fix the chain anchor set up on bullet the blue sky, tanks for the huecos and break down dead ahead. The current configuration makes you lower off of one link... that is very warn out. Bummed I'm going to miss the event.

Just a thought, but what about painting the putty that fills in the chipped holds on bullet to match the rock?


FLAG
By Old and Busted
From Centennial, CO
Feb 9, 2012
Stabby

I hope the A.R.I is donating SS Fixe anchor set-ups.


FLAG
By Mike Howard
Administrator
Feb 9, 2012
RGG silhouette

Mike Lane wrote:
I hope the A.R.I is donating SS Fixe anchor set-ups.

It is in the works, that is our intention.


FLAG
By Mike Howard
Administrator
Feb 9, 2012
RGG silhouette

rob bauer wrote:
Is there much trail work to do? The area is quite flat and I just wouldn't have guessed there was much of that to do. To be fair, it's been years since I was there...

Lots of work has been added to establish quality hiking/mountain biking/horse trails circling the area. This has been a great addition to The multisport visitor and the community. Plenty to help with here and quite impressive.


FLAG
By Mike Howard
Administrator
Feb 9, 2012
RGG silhouette

AndyMac wrote:
Mr Wind needs new cold shuts for sure! Sheer Strength's 2nd bolt will pull out more than I like to see, Shady Lady has the same issue. Probably last priority but BBC?, or whatever route that is through the picnic structure, is supposedly missing the anchor bolts (per MP). We've still got 3 months of longer days in there so I'll remember any others when I come across them. See you all in May!


It's on the list...keep em coming.


FLAG
By Mike Howard
Administrator
Feb 9, 2012
RGG silhouette

Monty wrote:
It'd be great to fix the chain anchor set up on bullet the blue sky, tanks for the huecos and break down dead ahead. The current configuration makes you lower off of one link... that is very warn out. Bummed I'm going to miss the event. Just a thought, but what about painting the putty that fills in the chipped holds on bullet to match the rock?

A priority, especially since I'd like to hang on that line and work the moves as well as upgrade it.
Thanks for the love on this place.


FLAG
By Locker
From Yucca Valley, CA
Feb 9, 2012
...

"Bob is not against modernizing routes" aka RETROBOLTING?


FLAG
By Mike Howard
Administrator
Feb 9, 2012
RGG silhouette

Upgrade list suggested by comments on MP. Volunteers would prefer to concentrate on the classics with Modernized anchors a priority. If you know of some, please comment.
Huecos Rancheros Anchor upgrade
Mr Wind Anchor upgrade
Sheer Strength 2nd bolt pulling out
Shady Lady Loose bolt
Bullet the Blue Sky and Tanks for the Huecos Fix the chain anchor set up. The current configuration makes you lower off of one link that is very warn out. 
Consider painting the putty that fills in the chipped holds on bullet to match the rock?
Tanks for the Huecos: After gaining the ledge, you are risking ground fall if you blow it climbing to the next bolt on an easy runout after that is unnecessary.
How The West Was Won Some one stole one of the chains off this route.
High first bolt, good black Powercam placement in a left-hand hueco from an easy low stance. That should CYA to nearly the first bolt. (but Camalots are too wide for those pockets).
Concupiscent Curds Anchor worn
Captain America: The existing anchors consist of three bolts. The two on the left were rap anchors and the one on the right had a clip hanger on it. The anchor in the middle had a beefy chain hanging from it. One of the bolts was loose and could use tightening. Further, below the fixed anchors were two empty bolt holes and a third bolt that was chopped and left in the hole. Perhaps those bolt holes and/or the chopped bolt made up the original anchor.
Whipping Post 5.11a  ? Loose Cold Shuts Anchors
No Regret 5.11c ? Loose Cold Shuts Anchors
Los Hermanos De La Weenie Way: A bolt after the traverse halfway exposed. R anchor bolt and coldshut need to be updated on Los Hermanos.The bolt could pull with a strong wind. Are the SMC hangers still legit?
Forbidden Fruit The last link on the left chain is cracked through.
Hand Jam Crack This line skips half of the vegetated crack anyways, following the lichen corner up. There is a clean, beautiful wide crack a little further on that is not in the book but looks like it has potential.
French Lesson Crack brushy, poorly bolted.!
Que pasa Nice moves, but bad rock. Many of the edges up high are crumbly. The rock around the third bolt is also blowing out.
Hareless 5.11a   Dirty, bush, no anchor
To Err Is Human 5.11d no anchor
BBC Stick clip the first bolt, and probably the second too, It's a tough clip from sketch rock. Some one stole the anchor bolts off the top
Iron Cross could use an update.

Inner Canyon
No Sweat, No Vapor 5.12a     Someone stole the anchor hangers off this one.
Sheer Lunacy 5.11 PG13  Route needs anchors relocated closer to edge. They are so far to the left it's best to belay the second from the top, otherwise cleaning the route is a PITA.


FLAG
By Gary N
From Durango, CO
Feb 9, 2012
Profile pic taken at Muir Beach.

If one has never bolted, but wanted to get introduced to it, would this be a good opportunity? I'd be interested in helping out and getting a little knowledge under my belt as well.


FLAG
By PTZ
From Chicago/Colorado
Feb 9, 2012
Where? Wouldn't you like to know. You have to buy me a beer, then I will tell you.

Thank you for your efforts. Penitente is a truly awesome canyon.


FLAG
By Old and Busted
From Centennial, CO
Feb 9, 2012
Stabby

Gary N wrote:
If one has never bolted, but wanted to get introduced to it, would this be a good opportunity? I'd be interested in helping out and getting a little knowledge under my belt as well.

Yes, it would be a great opportunity. Several old Masters will be there. In fact, the more I think about it, there may never be a gathering like this again.


FLAG
By john strand
From southern colo
Feb 11, 2012

I'm in. I have placed a fair number of bolts and replaced quite a few as well.
I can get beer donated from SLV Brewing in Alamosa as well. Will the after party be in the Canyon or at the store ????


FLAG
By Ed L
From Slowida
Feb 11, 2012
Fireside shenanigans in the Creek

R anchor bolt and coldshut need to be updated on Los Hermanos.The bolt could pull with a strong wind. Are the SMC hangers still legit? Iron Cross could use an update.


FLAG
By Old and Busted
From Centennial, CO
Feb 11, 2012
Stabby

Not to undermine the A.R.I., but I think it would be a good idea to set up an account directly w/ Fixe that folks could donate to for this. Someone would have to be the Central Scrutinizer on the package, and then if it ends up with way more hangers, anchor sets and bolts than needed give the rest to the A.R.I. Prolly need to set up a keg fund too.


FLAG
By Mike Howard
Administrator
Feb 12, 2012
RGG silhouette

Ed L wrote:
Are the SMC hangers still legit? .


The stainless steel ones with the vertical SMC stamp are bomber hangers, their integrity will depend on the bolt used. I have never seen one of those I wouldn't trust unless they had a bad bolt. The plated version (horizontal SMC) usually have rusted and become brittle. This can accelerate with different rock types and weather. I have seen these literally crumble like a potato chip when I went to pull them. I have not seen the plated hangers on the routes I have climbed at PC. If you know of some, they should be upgraded.


Supertopo forum


FLAG
By Mike Howard
Administrator
Feb 12, 2012
RGG silhouette

Mike Lane wrote:
... set up an account directly w/ Fixe that folks could donate to for this... Prolly need to set up a keg fund too.


We are on it. Bob has been talking to Kevin about this already. Keg fund is just as crucial, looks like we'll need a social coordinator. The suggestions and effort so far are great and much appreciated, such as:

john strand wrote:
I'm in. I can get beer donated from SLV Brewing in Alamosa as well. Will the after party be in the Canyon or at the store ????


FLAG
By Glenn Schuler
From Monument, Co.
Feb 12, 2012
A grey fox skull wedged in a crack 100' up on a FA I was working on - don't see that every day...

Are my home made red angle iron hangers still on my route Bucket Slave? If so, those would be contenders for replacement.
Not sure if I can make it down that weekend but I will definitely try. I'll try and talk that old Kevin M. guy into coming with also. Could bring my drill & help out with some work.


FLAG
By Mike Howard
Administrator
Feb 12, 2012
RGG silhouette

Glenn Schuler wrote:
Are my home made red angle iron hangers still on my route Bucket Slave? If so, those would be contenders for replacement.


Glen, the photo for Bucket Slave is not high res enough to say, and I haven't climbed it, at least recently. Does anybody on MP know? I'll look at it next trip. Hope you can make it.


FLAG
By William Mondragon
From My car
Feb 15, 2012
clutch kneebar/crimp action

Hey, let's put a new bolt in No Regret, like a bolt between 2nd and 3rd. I would get on this route if it weren't for that groundfall potential. I also thought there was a bolt missing last week on the furthest right route on the Hueco Wall (unsure of the real name), and the top of Captain America just looked like a mess. I look forward to seeing you soon, and I will update this if I see any other routes in need before now and then. ALSO, I am ALL for painting over those ugly putty holes on The Bullet. What a shame they are even there.
WM


FLAG
By BGreen
From Del Norte, CO
Mar 24, 2012

Glenn Schuler wrote:
Are my home made red angle iron hangers still on my route Bucket Slave? If so, those would be contenders for replacement. Not sure if I can make it down that weekend but I will definitely try. I'll try and talk that old Kevin M. guy into coming with also. Could bring my drill & help out with some work.

Yes the angles are still there.


FLAG
By BGreen
From Del Norte, CO
Mar 24, 2012

Mike that list looks great! I went out last week to look around. Here are a few additions.

TWIST OF FATE-needs 4 hangers to replace angle iron
QUE PASA-currently has no anchor
LAURA-currently has a single bolt anchor
BUCKET SLAVE-needs 4 hangers to replace angle iron
IRON CROSS-needs 2 hangers to replace angle iron
DINOSAUR-possible to add a bolt??rock quality may be a factor
JABBA-Currently has a single bolt anchor
NO SWEAT NO VAPOR-needs 5 hangers to replace angle iron plus anchors
VAPOR TRAILS-currently has a single bolt anchor
UNKNOWN 10d-2nd bolt is loose
VICIOUS and PANDORAS BOSCH--looks like these share the first bolt and possibly anchors(currently 1 bolt)

There is also work to be done in Rock Garden and Witches. Depending on the turnout, it would be great to get some of that accomplished as well.

Looking forward to this!


FLAG
By Mike Howard
Administrator
Mar 24, 2012
RGG silhouette

BGreen wrote:
Mike that list looks great! I went out last week to look around. Here are a few additions. TWIST OF FATE-needs 4 hangers to replace angle iron QUE PASA-currently has no anchor LAURA-currently has a single bolt anchor BUCKET SLAVE-needs 4 hangers to replace angle iron IRON CROSS-needs 2 hangers to replace angle iron DINOSAUR-possible to add a bolt??rock quality may be a factor JABBA-Currently has a single bolt anchor NO SWEAT NO VAPOR-needs 5 hangers to replace angle iron plus anchors VAPOR TRAILS-currently has a single bolt anchor UNKNOWN 10d-2nd bolt is loose VICIOUS and PANDORAS BOSCH--looks like these share the first bolt and possibly anchors(currently 1 bolt) There is also work to be done in Rock Garden and Witches. Depending on the turnout, it would be great to get some of that accomplished as well. Looking forward to this!


Thanks. Wonderful additions to the List. Bob has started an account with Fixe. Also, several of his sponsors/contacts have produced gear/swag as prizes. I've tried to get the Anchor Replacemt initiative involved but they don't answer our emails. We have donations for beer from two local breweries, perhaps we can get a pizza place to toss in some pies.

The BLM is quite involved and we should have a few dozen folks and a lot of organized projects. We'll have several drills and this might be a good place to share information on safe and appropriate bolt and anchor re/placement techniques. And probably alot of differing opinions.

The camping is excellent. We'll likely dump a pile a wood and surround a pit with chairs and listen to each other rant, blame, and talk about how impressed we were with this or that. It should be a circle with a few rarely seen old guns, and a few new. The hearth of the web pulls us in now, but the stars and the flash of fireight on grinning faces has not lost its draw. Please come. Penitente is one of the 'Thin Places" where you feel that the space between heaven and earth narrows and they do touch. And if you have never been, it is worth it just to gaze at "Bullet the Blue Sky" and ponder what a truly brief moment we get to share in this glorious place called earth. Please help to leave a part of it even better than when we found it.


FLAG


Follow replies to this topic? Notify me at the top of web site.
1

Email me.
Page 1 of 6.  1  2  3  4  5   Next>   Last>>