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In an attempt to divide the main Canyon into a couple distinct areas, this area covers the climbs on both the right and left side of the canyon until the side canyon branches to the right (at Captain America). Watch out for snakes.
From the main directions, follow the road into Penitente & park in the parking lot. One main trail enters the canyon - follow it. The first routes (including Mysterious Redhead) will be on the right after a long 30 second walk. Please stay off closed trails.
57 Total Routes
Browse More Classics in Penitente - Entrance Area
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Penitente - Entrance Area:
Captain America 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a Sport, 1 pitch
Lovesnake 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b Sport, 1 pitch, 30'
Bucket Slave 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b Trad, Sport, 1 pitch
Wages of Sin 5.10 6b 20 VII- E2 5b Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Yah-Ta-Hei 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Mysterious Redhead 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c Sport, 1 pitch
Whipping Post 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Dos Hombres 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c Sport, 1 pitch, 40'
No Regret 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- E4 6a Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
When the Whip Comes Down 5.11d 7a 24 VIII E5 6a Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
The Nature Of The Beast 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a PG13 Sport, 1 pitch, 40'
Forbidden Fruits 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Prick Pocket 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- E6 6b Sport, 1 pitch, 30'
Mission in the Rain 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- E6 6b Sport, 1 pitch, 45'
Glutton for Punishment 5.12d 7c 28 IX E6 6b Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Stemoroids 5.12d 7c 28 IX E6 6b Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Colors Of Emotion 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ E6 6c Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Cassandra 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ E6 6c Sport, Chipped, 1 pitch, 60'
Color of Devotion 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ E7 6c Sport, 1 pitch, 40'
Sitting in Limbo 5.13+ 8b 30 X- E7 7a Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Featured Route For Penitente - Entrance Area
Cassandra 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ E6 6c CO : San Luis Valley : ... : Penitente - Entrance Area
About 50 yards into the canyon, this route is just around the corner from the popular route "Whipping Post". Look for an astonishingly blank swath split by a thin crack...that is "Sitting In Limbo", "Cassandra" is just to the right. This route is a welcome change from many of the hard routes in the canyon, in that there are actually holds! Many of the hard routes in Penitente require straight down pulling on microscopic shadows, but this route has holds that don't go...[more] Browse More Classics in CO
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