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In an attempt to divide the main Canyon into a couple distinct areas, this area covers the climbs on both the right and left side of the canyon until the side canyon branches to the right (at Captain America). Watch out for snakes.
From the main directions, follow the road into Penitente & park in the parking lot. One main trail enters the canyon - follow it. The first routes (including Mysterious Redhead) will be on the right after a long 30 second walk. Please stay off closed trails.
58 Total Routes
Browse More Classics in Penitente - Entrance Area
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Penitente - Entrance Area:
Captain America 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a Sport, 1 pitch
Bucket Slave 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b Trad, Sport, 1 pitch
That's the Way 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Lovesnake 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b Sport, 1 pitch, 30'
Wages of Sin 5.10 6b 20 VII- E2 5b Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Yah-Ta-Hei 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Mysterious Redhead 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c Sport, 1 pitch
Whipping Post 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Dos Hombres 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c Sport, 1 pitch, 40'
Alien In My Underpants 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c Sport, 1 pitch
Persephone 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c Sport, 1 pitch
No Regret 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- E4 6a Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
When the Whip Comes Down 5.11d 7a 24 VIII E5 6a Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Dive Right In 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
The Nature Of The Beast 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a PG13 Sport, 1 pitch, 40'
Forbidden Fruits 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Prick Pocket 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- E6 6b Sport, 1 pitch, 30'
Cassandra 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ E6 6c Sport, Chipped, 1 pitch, 60'
Colors Of Emotion 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ E6 6c Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Sitting in Limbo 5.13+ 8b 30 X- E7 7a Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Featured Route For Penitente - Entrance Area
Colors Of Emotion 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ E6 6c CO : San Luis Valley : ... : Penitente - Entrance Area
This is a superb pocket climb on some of the cleanest stone in Colorado. It climbs up the center of the smooth black and orange wall up and right after breaching the mouth of the Canyon, just past Mysterious Redhead. It can be recognized by its Mammut ring bolts (unless these have been replaced) and by a large pocket/hueco about 12 feet up.Start on the ramp. An opening boulder problem gives way to yet more bouldery moves. Generally, each cruxy sequence is capped by a nice clipping/resting pocket...[more] Browse More Classics in CO
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