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Roof Rock
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L to R R to L Alpha
Dancing in the Dragon's Jaw TR 
Delicate Sound of Thunder S 
Devil's Sidewalk T 
Penis Envy T 
Quest for Magic S 
Stop Making Sense S 
Trouble with Normal, The S,TR 

Penis Envy 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
Page Views: 622
Submitted By: coop on Sep 28, 2010

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This route is located on the far right side of the cliff.


This is on the far right side of the cliff.


Three bolts, pro to 1.5 inches, anchors.

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By Mike Larrick
From: Avon
May 27, 2014
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Great fun route, solid feet and hands the whole way up. There are 2 sets of anchors for this route it seems, with the lower ones you can see from the bottom being the old ones. Those are kinda janky, I'd trust the newer looking ones about 10 feet from the ledge. Bring about 20-30 feet of anchor material though if you don't want the rope rubbing the rocks. Leading this is real heady, if you fall between the first and second bolts, you will deck. A little dirty, but I think we might have been some of the first people there this season.
Rock Climbing Photo: Penis Envy on top rope.
Penis Envy on top rope.

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