This is a great line with a wild crux. It is in the same alcove as Climb and Punishment and just to its right, merging with C&P after about 60 feet. Climb a nice, stemming handcrack. As it widens, brace yourself and fire the intimidating and not so obvious crux. A #3 Camalot (or larger) will protect the crux move at the 'pod.' I'll only give you one clue, don't layback.
Standard rack up to #3 Camalot.
Ben Faber at the crux on Penis Dimension 5.10 at V...
|By Tony B|
From: Around Boulder, CO
Jul 7, 2002
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
I tried to lie back 3 times- climbing up to and down from the crux testing each possible hold before I figured it out and did it right. One of my partners just never got it, although she got Hung Like A Horse (5.11a). Height and reach might be a factor for this climb.
It was a fun crux, I'll let the mystery remain.
|By Joe Collins|
Aug 26, 2002
I led the crux the "mysterious" way, which felt like 5.9+ to me, yet a reach-challenged person will find it impossible to do that way. In any case, I guess I highly offended some local punter who felt compelled to scream up at me, "YOU HAVE TO STAY IN THE POD... YOU'RE OFF ROUTE!!"... a**hole. I hate to admit it, but I think punter-dude might be right after TRing it afterwards... I think the grade is for climbing the pod straight on which felt about like 10+ OW to me.
From: Portland, OR
Nov 21, 2005
Nothing is off-route outside huh...Don't tell that to Horsetooth Reservoir or England or anywhere else climbing is to be had 'outside' with limited resources. Besides, if you think it's on, and don't care about climbing it using the intended holds, use it, it's not our job to judge another person's climbng experience. Everything may be usable, but certainly, not everything is 'on'. Maybe it is ridiculous to say 'hey, that foot is off', but sometimes using and not using a hold makes a a climb completely different, either way, make sure we remember that the most important thing about climbing is having fun, not necessarily climbing hard or debating ratings. Haven't been on the route, just talking ethics and such.
|By Rob Dillon|
May 3, 2006
Re "the intended holds"
Just whose intentions are you speaking for here? Seems a bit presumptuous to impute the intentions of the one who made the rock.
Ethics affect the rock; style affects the climber.
|By Steve Matous|
May 25, 2006
FA: Peter Hollis and John Garson, 1974.
|By Gay Jamie|
Oct 20, 2008
Penis Dimension has got to be one of the greatest climbs the Voo has to offer. Every part of this climb is on, but I prefer to jam that crack all the way to the top. However, I have been know to stray from time to time and "Oh Yes" I do know how to have fun;0
|By Jesse Ryan|
Feb 23, 2009
Super duper trick beta in the second paragraph for the crux pod - do not read ahead if you want the true onsight. The trick beta advice IS neither 1) laybacking up the right side of the crack - which hasn't gotten anyone I know up the route, particularly on lead 2) stemming or climbing over to climb and punishment, which I feel is a variation on the climb 3) nor jamming the crack straight on, which is good and fine if you can IMHO.
BETA ALERT: Read no further if you do not want to be tainted by the super trick beta. Here goes: place a piece just before pod flares in right position (#3 Camalot for me a little, but not too deep, YMMV). Now get your last decent fist above piece with left hand, right hand on gaston duty. Milk right leg as bottom leg, free the left leg and bring it over your fist for a calf jam. Sit up, with help from the right arm gaston and somehow extracting your lower left arm. Once you sit up and get your body in the slot the hard bit is over. Tadaaaa!
|By Bart Paull|
From: Boulder, CO
Mar 20, 2009
The super trick beta is just to stack, which is not a trick at all but a go-to, everyday, standard offwidth technique....
|By Deke Doty|
From: Fort Collins, Colorado
Nov 3, 2013
I find it a perfect place for a couple "teacup stacks". Some Laramie dude was telling my partner, inverted kneelock? I'm too old to try that, love the teacups. We always called it Voo10a.
|By skinny legs and all|
From: Elizabethtown, Pennsylvania
Jan 10, 2014
Ethics affect the rock; style affects the climber. What a great axiom, Rob! I will definitely remember this.