|Type:||Trad, Grade II|
|Consensus:||YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]|
|FA:||Harry Kent, Scott Kimball, 1976|
|Submitted By:||Charles Vernon on Sep 1, 2001|
|Season raptor closures MORE INFO >>>|
|Comments on Penis Chimney||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
Aug 25, 2004
|Very fun for a Lumpy chimney. I had a 4.5 and a 5 (old sizes). The 4.5 was left after pushing the 5 for a while. the 4.5 was quite tipped out when left. I think you woul be psyched to have two 5's and bring a light standard rack to a 3. The climbing is pretty secure and a solid leader at the grade will be ok with the runouts on a light rack. The left variation that Charles speaks of looks really good and is called the French Tickler 5.8 hands. Not as intimidating as it looks, but well worth it. I suggest taking it to the top if you have not been on the pinnacle before, other wise use the bolts on top of night on the town, Awkward getting into the rap, but conveinent. I don't recommend the gully between the bookmark and the pinnacle, I have seen many stuck ropes here.|
From: Foco, CO
Apr 9, 2012
So, I was just up at Lumpy on 4/8/12, and per beta from JPVallone, I had only a #5 BD with me thinking I could walk it if need be . . . . After getting my first piece in just before moving in to the chimney (0.3 BD ), I got through the first bulge and was nicely set in the chimney making my way up. After running it out 15 - 20 feet (could not get the #5 in at any point in there) and about to move around the next bulge (which means you need to moving out of the chimney, so you're close to being on the face), I still could not get the #5 BD in!!! I feel a #6 BD would have done the job or a #3 BigBro . . . . Which I did not have . . . . I am down for some run outs, but with a potential 60 foot groundfall, not so much!
Strongly recommend biger gear above a #5 . . . . Hope to get back up there next weekend and finish the climb . . . . After looking at what I was doing, I downclimbed back out of the chimney. Hands down though, it is a sweet climb if you like chimneys!!!
Hope this helps any one else looking to climb the Penis . . . . Don't get spanked by it like I did.
By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Apr 9, 2012
It is super clear to me from the dates posted the JP was talking about the pre-C4 sizes (since he posted prior to their advent and also spoke of a 4.5) and you are talking C4 sizes since you mention a 6, which did not used to exist....
So really, you are suggesting the same thing.
I've never really cared for how BD handled the taxinomy of the re-sizing thing - it always leads to some confusion.
"Up to a #4?... You mean Camalot or Friend?"
"OK, new or old sizing?"
I've got an HB quadcam size 3.8. It's between the 3 and 5. I know exactly how big it is....
Apr 11, 2012
|...and the BD re-sizing hoses yet another poor bastard.|
From: Boulder, CO
Jul 16, 2012
|I used two C4 #6's and a #3 Big Bro. Coulda put some more big gear in, but that protects it quite well. The left option is good!|