Type: | Trad, Grade II |
FA: | Harry Kent, Scott Kimball, 1976 |
Page Views: | 3,276 total · 12/month |
Shared By: | Charles Vernon on Aug 31, 2001 |
Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Raptor Closures lifted 7/28/23
Details
Per Brent Frazier: the raptor closures have been lifted in the Lumpy Ridge and Loch Vale Areas ( nps.gov/romo/raptor-closure…)
Each year, Rocky Mountain National Park initiates temporary closures in certain areas of the park to ensure that birds of prey will be undisturbed during their breeding and nesting seasons. These closures begin on February 15 and continue through July 31, if appropriate. Monitoring by park staff and volunteers have determined that all remaining closures can be lifted on July 28, 2023.
Per Matt Coghill: the Golden eagle nesting activity has extended Lumpy closures through Aug. 15, 2022 on Sundance, Thunder Buttress, and Needle Summit!
Per A.Eaton: the raptor closures have been lifted as of 6/4/2022 at Lumpy for the following formations:
Twin Owls
Rock One
Batman Rock
Batman Pinnacle
Checkerboard
Lightning Rock
Per the Denver Post: as of Feb. 15, 2022, Checkerboard Rock, Lightning Rock, Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Sundance, Thunder Buttress, The Parish, Bookmark Pinnacle, The Left Book, Bookmark, Twin Owls, Rock One, and the Needle are closed for raptor nesting. These closures will continue through July 31, 2022 if needed.
All areas [were] OPEN to climbing for the 2021 post July season.
Closures ending July 31:
Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Lightning Rock, Checkerboard Rock - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Sundance - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
The Book Area: Left Book, The Bookmark, Bookmark Pinnacle, and the entire Book formation (including Renaissance Wall, Isis Buttress, Pages Wall Area, and J-Crack Slab Area)- nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Thunder Buttress and The Parish - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Twin Owls and Rock One - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Cathedral Wall - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
When closed, the closures include the named rock formations and the areas surrounding the base of the formation. This includes all climbing routes, outcroppings, cliffs, faces, ascent and descent routes, and climber's access trails to the formation.
Areas not listed are presumed to be open. These closures will be lifted or extended as conditions dictate.
Each year, Rocky Mountain National Park initiates temporary closures in certain areas of the park to ensure that birds of prey will be undisturbed during their breeding and nesting seasons. These closures begin on February 15 and continue through July 31, if appropriate. Monitoring by park staff and volunteers have determined that all remaining closures can be lifted on July 28, 2023.
Per Matt Coghill: the Golden eagle nesting activity has extended Lumpy closures through Aug. 15, 2022 on Sundance, Thunder Buttress, and Needle Summit!
Per A.Eaton: the raptor closures have been lifted as of 6/4/2022 at Lumpy for the following formations:
Twin Owls
Rock One
Batman Rock
Batman Pinnacle
Checkerboard
Lightning Rock
Per the Denver Post: as of Feb. 15, 2022, Checkerboard Rock, Lightning Rock, Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Sundance, Thunder Buttress, The Parish, Bookmark Pinnacle, The Left Book, Bookmark, Twin Owls, Rock One, and the Needle are closed for raptor nesting. These closures will continue through July 31, 2022 if needed.
All areas [were] OPEN to climbing for the 2021 post July season.
Closures ending July 31:
Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Lightning Rock, Checkerboard Rock - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Sundance - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
The Book Area: Left Book, The Bookmark, Bookmark Pinnacle, and the entire Book formation (including Renaissance Wall, Isis Buttress, Pages Wall Area, and J-Crack Slab Area)- nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Thunder Buttress and The Parish - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Twin Owls and Rock One - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Cathedral Wall - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
When closed, the closures include the named rock formations and the areas surrounding the base of the formation. This includes all climbing routes, outcroppings, cliffs, faces, ascent and descent routes, and climber's access trails to the formation.
Areas not listed are presumed to be open. These closures will be lifted or extended as conditions dictate.
Description
This fun chimney route is located on the Bookmark Pinnacle, a buttress at the SE corner of the Bookmark. I'll spare all the obvious double entendres. Locate the start by hiking to the Bookmark and then going right around the large "flatiron" to a brushy gully (right of Romulan Territory and Backflip). The chimney begins on the right, about 25 feet up the gully. Secure 5.8 chimneying (funky pro without Big Bros) leads to the crux bulge/OW/stem. It's possible to get a #5 Camalot deep in the chimney below the bulge, but above, the crack is too wide, and a fall will slam you back into the flaring chimney. Very questionable small nuts and cams can be placed in a short crack above the bulge. From here three options exist: the most obvious continues up the tight chimney/OW (good small piece for the last hard move) to a trough underneath a huge block; walk under it and belay. Or, climb the outside of the block at 5.9. Another option traverses left on a narrow ledge (which looks scary to get onto) about 10 feet above the bulge to a 5.8+ crack.
In any case, one should move the belay up to a large block just above the gully on the west side of the pinnacle (which is by now evident), about 40 feet above the block capping the chimney, and below a steep 5.8 hand crack (with a bush). Finish by climbing the good but crystalline hand crack (and bring one of your wide pieces for the slot at the top!), and then climb up the exciting 5.7 ridge (scary for the second), left of a chimney, to the summit of the pinnacle. Belay from rappel slings. A 60m rope rappel will get you to the bottom of a gully to the east. From there, walk north across a slab and gain a bushy gully which leads back to the base of the route. With a 50m rope, two rappels (you may need to leave a sling on the second) or some scary downclimbing will be necessary.
Note: once finished with the chimney, there are a number of other alternatives to the original route. One can climb either of two south-facing, 5.8-5.9 cracks and finish on the summit ridge. Or, rappel to the west or east of the chimney (two ropes are helpful). There are several nests of slings in the gully to the west (and a new bolt anchor atop the first pitch of Backflip can be reached after one rap). There is also a 2-bolt anchor on the ledge to the south of the block that caps the chimney.
In any case, one should move the belay up to a large block just above the gully on the west side of the pinnacle (which is by now evident), about 40 feet above the block capping the chimney, and below a steep 5.8 hand crack (with a bush). Finish by climbing the good but crystalline hand crack (and bring one of your wide pieces for the slot at the top!), and then climb up the exciting 5.7 ridge (scary for the second), left of a chimney, to the summit of the pinnacle. Belay from rappel slings. A 60m rope rappel will get you to the bottom of a gully to the east. From there, walk north across a slab and gain a bushy gully which leads back to the base of the route. With a 50m rope, two rappels (you may need to leave a sling on the second) or some scary downclimbing will be necessary.
Note: once finished with the chimney, there are a number of other alternatives to the original route. One can climb either of two south-facing, 5.8-5.9 cracks and finish on the summit ridge. Or, rappel to the west or east of the chimney (two ropes are helpful). There are several nests of slings in the gully to the west (and a new bolt anchor atop the first pitch of Backflip can be reached after one rap). There is also a 2-bolt anchor on the ledge to the south of the block that caps the chimney.
Protection
Consider this climb runout without Big Bros. There are a couple of places where you can place large Camalots - I had a #4, #4.5, and a #5 (old sizes). With the addition of a couple of Big Bros (which Gillett recommends), the climb would be safe. Bring a standard rack to #3.5 Friend otherwise.
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