Route Guide - iPhone / Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New - School of Rock
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Lower Blair III
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
A Dream of Fat Antelope T 
A Horse Will Have To Do T 
Arete Already T,S 
Bragging About Jesus S 
Bullwinkle T 
Damit T 
Empty Suit T 
Five Finger Discount T,S 
Go Left, Old Man, Go Left T 
Hard to Believe T 
Inconvenient Angles T 
Inner Notch T 
Intimidation T 
Jogging to Vedauwoo T 
La Femme Takeda T 
Ledge of the World, The T 
Middle Notch T,TR 
Outer Notch T 
Penetration T 
Pretty Girls with Long Knives T 
Random Crystals T 
Sketch Palsy S 
Sweet Variation T 
Take 5 T 
Unremembered T 
Unsorted Routes:

Penetration 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Mark Jenkins, Zach Orenczak, 2003
Page Views: 974
Submitted By: Steven Lucarelli on Apr 26, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (9)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Penetration, 5.9+.
June 2012.
Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 MORE INFO >>>

Description 

I'm not sure why I got on this route, maybe because my partner backed off of it, so I felt obligated. Anyway this short, flaring offwidth felt quite difficult for the given grade. Maybe it was because of the strenuous start getting into the offwidth or maybe it was the crappy rock which was continually raining down as I struggled to the anchor. Either way, this route starts at a water-streaked face that turns into an offwidth after about 6'. The initial moves getting into the offwidth are the crux and are very awkward.


Location 

This is the leftmost, wide crack on the northeast prow of Blair III. The start is identified by a dark, water streak coming from the offwidth above.


Protection 

This route takes #1 or #2 to #5 Camalots from what I recall. The smaller sizes are for the start. There is an anchor at the top but I don't think it was bolts.



Comments on Penetration Add Comment
Show which comments
By Brian Story
May 21, 2007

This is a good offwidth. Maybe hard for the grade? Rock quality is bad as of May '07, but should improve with traffic. Gear up to 1 or 2 #5 Camalots.

By tom Jensen
Aug 26, 2007

As offwidths go, this is what you're looking for. Great training for the harder grades due to the consistency. Definitely hard, but then 9+ is ALWAYS hard at Vedauwoo. Sustained. I felt the bottom was easy compared to the thrutching that follows. The rock quality at the bottom is garbage but don't let that turn you away. Rock above is not well traveled so wear a long sleeve shirt for sure! A proud little grunt fest. I found smaller gear in the back (#1, 2, 3 Camalots) to be ideal pro so you could do it safely without a Vedauwoo rack. There ARE rap anchors at the top, but extend them a lot if you are going to toprope as the rope gets stuck in the chockstones at the top otherwise.

By Tom T
Jun 15, 2008

The comments on rock quality and the sustained nature of this route are spot on. This thing left me bruised and beaten. I trundled several loose rocks from the very top section. The large and somewhat secure chockstones at the exit are still pretty solid. I also needed bigger gear (#4 and #5 Camalot) because the back of the crack was very hard for me to reach.

By Jeffery
From: WY
Oct 23, 2011

I climbed this route with my left side in the crack. Has anyone tried climbing it with the right side? My initial plan was the right side, but I could not figure out how to transition from the left side to the right after entering the crack. Seems like there could be more foot holds outside the crack, if one climbed it with the right side.

By Jeffery
From: WY
Oct 23, 2011

Does anyone know what the bolted route is just above the anchors? It looks really fun! The first hanger was missing though.

By wehlhung1
Sep 9, 2013

Definitely a must do if you're looking to flirt with dirty climbing chicks, as the name lends itself to suggestive conversation.

Also, the guy in the photo in the Kelman book must certainly be a blood relation of Frankenstein?