|The Mordor Wall
The first climb to go through this section of Cathedral. It used to start off of a branch near the cliff but the tree is gone. Now steep aid to reach the start on bolts of 'Highway 61'. Climb overlap undercling right to reach a decent belay (5.10a) Climb directly up groove corner ( 'Lights in the Forest' has the same start) to moves out left on bulges until ceiling crack is reached. Mantle crack at fixed lost arrow and follow crack to belay place (5.9+). Move horizontal short distance to the base of a shallow right facing corner and cramped belay. Do difficult thin moves up corner (5.10c-d) run out and move left under giant ceiling to a decent belay ledge. Climb the pendulum roof crack directly on aid (A-2) or move up left to traverse right inward above ceiling and jump to jugs for the (5.11d) free lunge. I couldn't bring myself to do the lunge so I ended up aiding it. After the ceiling belay higher up on a decent ledge. Continue up the crack to the top on beautiful jams to typical Cathedral Ledge wider crack stuff near the end.
Near to the Cathedral cave right side. Find the remains of the very old big tree and look up to see the undercling crack of the former first pitch.
Trad. rack, Friends and smallest TCU's to back up the old pins or replace the old pins.
From: Cambridge, MA
Jul 23, 2012
Pulled a pin on pitch 3 that was manky. Also, replaced the sling on the pendulum.
|By burlap submariner|
Jun 12, 2014
It should def. be noted that when you traverse under the pendulum roof it its easiest to place a nest of gear in the roof or the horizontal crack at the base of the roof at its very end and down climb to the sidewalk ledge. When your second follows you they will leave this gear in place and down climb to you on the side walk ledge, the climbing here is solid 5.9 but the gear is good and essentially you are down climbing 5.9 with a top rope over head. When you start the crux pitch you now have a top rope for the 9 climbing you just down climbed.
|By john strand|
From: southern colo
Jun 14, 2014
Good point Burlap. The crux roof was originally freed, direct w/o going left and then back. Quite hard, maybe 5.12..going around,then over is easier, but scary