|The Mordor Wall
|Type: ||Trad, 8 pitches, 400', Grade IV|
|Consensus: || YDS: 5.11c/d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII British: E4 6a [details]|
|FA: ||Steve Arsenault and Paul Doyle, September 1967. FFA Ed Webster and Ajax Greene August, 1976.|
|New Route: ||Yes|
|Page Views: ||762|
|Submitted By: ||bradley white on Oct 12, 2010|
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The first climb to go through this section of Cathedral. It used to start off of a branch near the cliff but the tree is gone. Now steep aid to reach the start on bolts of 'Highway 61'. Climb overlap undercling right to reach a decent belay (5.10a) Climb directly up groove corner ( 'Lights in the Forest' has the same start) to moves out left on bulges until ceiling crack is reached. Mantle crack at fixed lost arrow and follow crack to belay place (5.9+). Move horizontal short distance to the base of a shallow right facing corner and cramped belay. Do difficult thin moves up corner (5.10c-d) run out and move left under giant ceiling to a decent belay ledge. Climb the pendulum roof crack directly on aid (A-2) or move up left to traverse right inward above ceiling and jump to jugs for the (5.11d) free lunge. I couldn't bring myself to do the lunge so I ended up aiding it. After the ceiling belay higher up on a decent ledge. Continue up the crack to the top on beautiful jams to typical Cathedral Ledge wider crack stuff near the end.
Near to the Cathedral cave right side. Find the remains of the very old big tree and look up to see the undercling crack of the former first pitch.
Trad. rack, Friends and smallest TCU's to back up the old pins or replace the old pins.
|Comments on Pendulum Route
From: Cambridge, MA
Jul 23, 2012
Pulled a pin on pitch 3 that was manky. Also, replaced the sling on the pendulum.