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The Millstone
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Against the Establishment S 
Angle of Repose S 
Blockbuster T 
Bush Doctor T 
Calling All Karmas S 
Cat Juggling S 
Earthling S 
Eraserhead T 
Hollow Excuses T 
Intelligient Life Form S 
Lead Balloon S 
Maize, The S 
Miller Time S 
Milling About T 
Millstone Slab T 
Moon Walk S 
Odd Get Even, The S 
Pencilneck T 
Personal Jesus S 
Private Hell S 
Stick Figure Stays Home S 
Stone Ground S 
Strong Arm With the Lads S 
Surfing on a Rocket T 
Tie Die S 
Unknown Crack T 
Yuppie Love S 


YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b PG13

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Keith Maas, Gordon Douglas 1989
Page Views: 382
Submitted By: Nathan Fisher on Jun 29, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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A crack system with a traverse, Pencilneck starts off with a flake that doesn't feel too solid, then crosses right into a thin vertical crack. This crack does protect acceptably, but climbs well. At the top of this crack it changes to an exceptional but short, finger/hand crack that traverses right. Follow this up to another short crack, this one a left facing dihedral. Finish up.


Just left of Eraserhead is a right-facing flake. This is the shared start of this route and Hollow Excuses. Pencilneck crosses right immediately.


Nothing larger than a #2 Camalot. Small gear for the thin crack, and some runners. It shares the anchors with Eraserhead, so a bring extra slings (or chains) for the anchor.

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By dnaiscool
Apr 22, 2015

Make sure to bring this rack to do this route safely:

#3-5 RP;
Doubles TCU #0-3;
one each Camalot from .5 to 2

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