Pencilneck  5.10c PG13

229 page views Good page?

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60 feet Consensus:  5.10c [details] FA:  Keith Maas, Gordon Douglas 1989 Submitted By:  Nathan Fisher on Jun 29, 2007 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Add Photo  Add Comment    Printer View

Description 

A crack system with a traverse, Pencilneck starts off with a flake that doesn't feel too solid, then crosses right into a thin vertical crack. This crack does protect acceptably, but climbs well. At the top of this crack it changes to an exceptional but short, finger/hand crack that traverses right. Follow this up to another short crack, this one a left facing dihedral. Finish up.

Location 

Just left of Eraserhead is a right-facing flake. This is the shared start of this route and Hollow Excuses. Pencilneck crosses right immediately.

Protection 

Nothing larger than a #2 Camalot. Small gear for the thin crack, and some runners. It shares the anchors with Eraserhead, so a bring extra slings (or chains) for the anchor.