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The Millstone
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YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII British: E2 5b PG13

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Keith Maas, Gordon Douglas 1989
Page Views: 258
Submitted By: Nathan Fisher on Jun 29, 2007
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A crack system with a traverse, Pencilneck starts off with a flake that doesn't feel too solid, then crosses right into a thin vertical crack. This crack does protect acceptably, but climbs well. At the top of this crack it changes to an exceptional but short, finger/hand crack that traverses right. Follow this up to another short crack, this one a left facing dihedral. Finish up.


Just left of Eraserhead is a right-facing flake. This is the shared start of this route and Hollow Excuses. Pencilneck crosses right immediately.


Nothing larger than a #2 Camalot. Small gear for the thin crack, and some runners. It shares the anchors with Eraserhead, so a bring extra slings (or chains) for the anchor.

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