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West Cottage Dome
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Cottage Cheese T 
Geekin' Hard T 
Pencil-Necked Geek T 

Pencil-Necked Geek 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 250'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Alan Roberts, Alan Bartlett, Dan McMillian, Tom Prentice - '80
Page Views: 242
Submitted By: TylerW on Apr 27, 2010

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BETA PHOTO: The northish face of cottage dome

Description 

Fun, overlooked gem of a route. Starts just to the right of Geekin' Hard. Starts off with a tough little 11a boulder problem and then moves into a sustained 10a hand crack. "10a+" I'd say. The next 2 pitches we linked to the top without much problem, but they involve a couple balancey traverses and one big mantle to an easyish finger crack to the top.

Location 

Around the corner from cottage cheese. See picture.

Protection 

Standard rack to 2.5" some bolts.


Photos of Pencil-Necked Geek Slideshow Add Photo
scott at the 11a boulder problem start
scott at the 11a boulder problem start
scott on the second pitch mantle
scott on the second pitch mantle

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