Pencil-Necked Geek  5.11a

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Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 250 feet Consensus:  5.11a [details] FA:  Alan Roberts, Alan Bartlett, Dan McMillian, Tom Prentice - '80 Submitted By:  TylerW on Apr 27, 2010 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

BETA PHOTO: The northish face of cottage dome

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Description 

Fun, overlooked gem of a route. Starts just to the right of Geekin' Hard. Starts off with a tough little 11a boulder problem and then moves into a sustained 10a hand crack. "10a+" I'd say. The next 2 pitches we linked to the top without much problem, but they involve a couple balancey traverses and one big mantle to an easyish finger crack to the top.

Location 

Around the corner from cottage cheese. See picture.

Protection 

Standard rack to 2.5" some bolts.

Photos of Pencil-Necked Geek Slideshow

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scott at the 11a boulder problem start

scott on the second pitch mantle