Home - Destinations - iPhone/Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New
Login with Facebook
The Mustang
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Caballo Loco 
Chertin for Certain 
Kopytem Sem Kopytem Tam (Hoof here, Hoof there) 
Left Y Crack 
Men In Funny Hats 
Mustang Sally 
New Safari 
No Mas Boot 
Nova Super Sport 
Pencil Dick 
Saddle Up 
Se Camina Espanol 
Slim Jim 
Stinkbug Cowgirl 
Violent Green Swallow 

Pencil Dick 

YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII British: E4 6a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 102'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII British: E4 6a [details]
FA: JSt, DBr ?
Page Views: 786
Submitted By: Joseph Stover on Apr 15, 2007
Good Page? 0 people like this page. Your opinion:   

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]


Long and sustained. Lots of variety, crimps, underclings, sidepulls, pinches, jugs, slopey stuff, little pockets, huge pockets, and one shaped like a big bull penis. This climb has it all.

There is a distinct crux near the top. I think it was between the last two bolts. Thin moves there.

A 60 meter barely reaches with rope stretch. I think My rope might be short for 60M though...


2nd route from the right in a little cove about 100ft up from where the trail deposits you by Beeware. Starts on a nice ledge.


12 bolts, chain anchors

Comments on Pencil Dick Add Comment
Show which comments
By 1Eric Rhicard
Apr 15, 2007

Thanks for including me Joseph but I was not involved in the FA of this one. I did climb it and it was "thin where it was hard" thus the name. This is a must do route.

By dcohn
Jun 4, 2007

That's funny. I thought the route was named after the very long and narrow hole that is about a third of the way up the route.

By Jimbo
Jun 11, 2007

Actually there is a soda straw formation way in the back of one of the holes at the top. That's where the name actually came from.

By Christian
From: Casa do Cacete
Feb 9, 2011
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- E4 6a

Pretty outstanding route.