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Pencil Dick 

YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 102'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII British: E4 6a [details]
FA: JSt, DBr ?
Page Views: 786
Submitted By: Joseph Stover on Apr 15, 2007
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
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Description 

Long and sustained. Lots of variety, crimps, underclings, sidepulls, pinches, jugs, slopey stuff, little pockets, huge pockets, and one shaped like a big bull penis. This climb has it all.

There is a distinct crux near the top. I think it was between the last two bolts. Thin moves there.

A 60 meter barely reaches with rope stretch. I think My rope might be short for 60M though...


Location 

2nd route from the right in a little cove about 100ft up from where the trail deposits you by Beeware. Starts on a nice ledge.


Protection 

12 bolts, chain anchors



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By 1Eric Rhicard
Apr 15, 2007

Thanks for including me Joseph but I was not involved in the FA of this one. I did climb it and it was "thin where it was hard" thus the name. This is a must do route.

By dcohn
Jun 4, 2007

That's funny. I thought the route was named after the very long and narrow hole that is about a third of the way up the route.

By Jimbo
Jun 11, 2007

Actually there is a soda straw formation way in the back of one of the holes at the top. That's where the name actually came from.

By Christian
From: Casa do Cacete
Feb 9, 2011
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- E4 6a

Pretty outstanding route.