Pencil Dick 5.11+
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| Type: | Sport, 1 pitch, 102 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.11+ [details] |
| FA: | JSt, DBr ? |
| Submitted By: | Joseph Stover on Apr 15, 2007 |
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Description Long and sustained. Lots of variety, crimps, underclings, sidepulls, pinches, jugs, slopey stuff, little pockets, huge pockets, and one shaped like a big bull penis. This climb has it all.
There is a distinct crux near the top. I think it was between the last two bolts. Thin moves there.
A 60 meter barely reaches with rope stretch. I think My rope might be short for 60M though...
Location 2nd route from the right in a little cove about 100ft up from where the trail deposits you by Beeware. Starts on a nice ledge.
Protection 12 bolts, chain anchors
By 1Eric Rhicard
Apr 15, 2007
| Thanks for including me Joseph but I was not involved in the FA of this one. I did climb it and it was "thin where it was hard" thus the name. This is a must do route. |
By dcohn
Jun 4, 2007
| That's funny. I thought the route was named after the very long and narrow hole that is about a third of the way up the route. |
By Jimbo
Jun 11, 2007
| Actually there is a soda straw formation way in the back of one of the holes at the top. That's where the name actually came from. |
By Christian
From: Tucson, Az
Feb 9, 2011
rating: 5.11c
| Pretty outstanding route. |
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