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Steele
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Penchant 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 438
Submitted By: saxfiend on Dec 19, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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Penchant

Description 

Another Steele sandbag, Penchant has some nice offwidth-to-hand crack climbing . . . if you can pull the start to get to it.

Starting below a prominent offwidth, make difficult moves through a thin crack system to gain a small ledge. Follow the offwidth as it narrows to a more manageable crack, then continue jamming and face climbing to the top.

Location 

Located near the right end of the Copout/Penchant area, about 20' left of Dance with the Devil.

Protection 

Mostly medium gear, along with a spotter for the starting moves. Bolted anchors.


Photos of Penchant Slideshow Add Photo
Beginning of Penchant
BETA PHOTO: Beginning of Penchant
Getting up through the end of the mid section.
Getting up through the end of the mid section.

Comments on Penchant Add Comment
Show which comments
By Jeff Mekolites
From: HOTlanta, GA
Dec 21, 2010

If you lead this you will need a small piece (stopper) to protect the opening moves or just boulder it out to a good jug, then plug something in.
By Curtles
From: Alabama
Jun 12, 2013

This route was called Pinch-It. As in pinch it off. Supposely the belayer had to no. 2 so the climber told him to "pinch it off" and keep him on belay.