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Pinch-It (Penchant) 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Lyle Dean, Kip Simmons, 1976
Page Views: 513
Submitted By: saxfiend on Dec 19, 2010  with updates from Chuck Parks

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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Penchant

Description 

Another Steele sandbag, Pinch-It has some nice offwidth-to-hand crack climbing . . . if you can pull the start to get to it.

Starting below a prominent offwidth, make difficult moves through a thin crack system to gain a small ledge. Follow the offwidth as it narrows to a more manageable crack, then continue jamming and face climbing to the top.

Location 

Located near the right end of the Copout/Pinch-It area, about 20' left of Dance with the Devil.

Protection 

Mostly medium gear, along with a spotter for the starting moves. Bolted anchors.


Photos of Pinch-It (Penchant) Slideshow Add Photo
Beginning of Penchant
BETA PHOTO: Beginning of Penchant
Getting up through the end of the mid section.
Getting up through the end of the mid section.

Comments on Pinch-It (Penchant) Add Comment
Show which comments
By Jeff Mekolites
From: HOTlanta, GA
Dec 21, 2010

If you lead this you will need a small piece (stopper) to protect the opening moves or just boulder it out to a good jug, then plug something in.
By Curtles
From: Alabama
Jun 12, 2013

This route was called Pinch-It. As in pinch it off. Supposely the belayer had to no. 2 so the climber told him to "pinch it off" and keep him on belay.
By Lyle Dean
Nov 30, 2014

Kip Simmons and I did this route in about 1976 and the name is Pinch-It and the story about the belayer is correct.
By Brent C.
Mar 16, 2015

Nice mix of face, crack, and chimney climbing.

Felt harder than some of the 5.10a/b face climbs I've been on at Steele.

Novice climbers, be ready for a fight.
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