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l. Sleepy Hollow
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10,000 Restless Virgins 
A Long Walk For Man, A Short Climb For Mankind 
Almost Pure and Simple 
Art's Route 
Boron Destroyer 
Casa Emilio 
Casablanca 
Casanova 
Counterstrike 
Crack of Despondency 
Creaky Joints and Trigger Points 
Dick's Prick 
Fancy Free 
Footloose 
Headless Horseman 
Independent Hangover 
Lone Ranger, The 
Penal Colony/Circumcision link up 
Tennish Anyone? 
Trigger Point 
V.D. 
Wegetables I've Never Seen Before 

Penal Colony/Circumcision link up 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: 
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Submitted By: JSW on Sep 30, 2011
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Description 

Start up the orange open book, surmount the overhang (crux), then traverse on a large horizontal ~15 feet to W small corner with W small tree. Get around the tree, then up a few easy fun moves up the crack and right to the top of the formation.


Location 

on the near side of Dick's Prick Pinnacle
rappel of slings at top


Protection 

regular gunks rack sufficient



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By JSW
Sep 30, 2011

The route is not even bold face in grey dick but I thought a much better way to the top of the formation than Dick's Prick (except for the short thrash around the tree).