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Pena de Bernal

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El Lado O scuro de la Luna S 
Bernalina S 

Pena de Bernal  


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Location: 20.7279, -99.9577 View Map  Incorrect?
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Administrators: Hank Caylor, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: manuel rangel on Mar 13, 2008
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view of the pena de bernal from the descent

Description 

This volcanic monolith consists of a hard rhyolite rock resulting in great edges and chickenheads. It is located at the town of Bernal, and so is the approach trail. It is popular with hikers and climbers alike. The slabby east face is long and fun and the NE side has a via ferrata winding to the top, making for a fun downclimb. More info can be found on xpmexico.com

Getting There 

From the town of Queretaro, drive towards Mexico City along Hwy 57 to the exit marked: Pena de Bernal. Take this road for @ 30 min to the town and the Pena is plainly visible, wander to the back of town to a parking lot and the approach trail. Hike @ 15 minutes to the slabby east face or wander to the backside routes along the rock face of choice.

Climbing Season



Weather station 1.3 miles from here

2 Total Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',2],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',1],['5.9',1],['5.10',0],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Pena de Bernal:
El Lado Oscuro de la Luna   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 500'   
Browse More Classics in Pena de Bernal

Featured Route For Pena de Bernal
Emilio Plascencio following pitch one of Bernalina...

Bernalina 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c  North America : Mexico : ... : Pena de Bernal
It was hard to say where the crux was, it was so much fun. Great holds, fat bolts and good climbing up a clean wall. The 4-7 pitches can be tricky due to the low angle and sparsity of bolts but look around....[more]   Browse More Classics in International

Photos of Pena de Bernal Slideshow Add Photo
Pena de Bernal, from the approach. Photo copied fr...
BETA PHOTO: Pena de Bernal, from the approach. Photo copied fr...
pena de bernal
pena de bernal

Comments on Pena de Bernal Add Comment
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By Anthony Anagnostou
From: nyc
Dec 24, 2008
a little more beta, for those who find themselves wandering the central mexico rock scene. once you get to bernal, attempt the maze of uphill side streets until you find yourself at the base of the rock. a few pesos will pay the parking fees.

the via ferrata descent probably feels like 4th class on the way up, but on the way down it might get your attention if you're not on top of things. its not a via ferrata with cables, protection, etc. mostly a seriously fun down-monkeying with fattie rungs through most (but not all) of the steep sections. a 60m rope will protect the entire climbing section if you want a belayed-downclimb, or you can rappel from chains at the slabby (crux?) beginning of the descent. there is an intermediate station if rap straight down, so im assuming you could rap with one rope, but i havent tried.

i found the climbing similar to classic moderate red rock (nv) stuff, plenty of things to hold onto on the gentle climbs i played on, and the rock is solid.

there is plenty of beta (in spanish) on xpmexico.com.
click on (respectively) roca: guias, querataro, pena de bernal
By krispyyo
From: Littleton, CO
Dec 7, 2010
There's also great bouldering around the base of this. The "via ferreta" is more like low fifth class soloing with a rung every 30 feet or so. Super fun!