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Pembroke

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Stackpole and Lydstep 

Pembroke  


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Location: 51.8188, -4.9081 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 380
Administrators: Chris Owen, Euan Cameron, Nick Russell, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Nick Russell on Mar 21, 2013
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Description 

The Pembrokeshire coast is a mecca for sea cliff climbing, with more recorded routes now than the whole of Snowdonia! The area is split here by the divisions in the current series of definitive guidebooks by the Climbers Club:
1. North Pembroke
2. Range West
3. Range East (Stack Rocks to Hollow Caves Bay)
4. Range East (Saddle Head to St. Govans)
5. Stackpole and Lydstep
with further subdivisions within each of these areas.

The vast majority of the climbs here are tidal sea cliffs, and the Bristol channel has a notoriously large tidal range (second in the word!), so it is imperative to check the tide tables when planning a visit.

Getting There 

The M4 is the main access to South Wales from England. When that runs out, continue along A roads, depending on which area you intend to visit.

Climbing Season



Weather station 10.9 miles from here

3 Total Routes

['4 Stars',3],['3 Stars',0],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',1],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',1],['5.10',1],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]


Featured Route For Pembroke
Looking back along the traverse

Heart of Darkness/New Morning 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a  Europe : United Kingdom : ... : Mowing Word
A classic link-up of 2 very good lines: intimidating, committing and serious for both leader and second. The first pitch (Heart of Darkness) is a traverse of the obvious breaks at about half height, while the second (New Morning) is a hand-fist crack to the top. E1 4c,5b in British.From the ledges, climb up and left to the arete, from which you can peer round at the route. Continue up to the series of breaks: you want your hands in the top one for the most part. Now the route is obvious: travers...[more]   Browse More Classics in International

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By Nick Russell
Administrator
From: Bristol, UK
Mar 21, 2013
I'll flesh this area out a bit after a few more visits. If anybody wants to do a better job sooner, just let me know and I'll reassign it to you.