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 ADVANCED
Borneo
Select Route:
Bolts for Bob S 
Bushwhacker S,TR 
Pelican's Dyke S 
Solitaire S 
Spinal Tap S 

Pelican's Dyke 

YDS: 5.10c/d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 1,571
Submitted By: Brad Boner on Jan 1, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (38)
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BETA PHOTO: Pelican's Dyke... a really fun climb. Thanks to a...

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Description 

This the major dyke that is located in the middle of the E face.

Protection 

Quickdraws


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Nathan reaches for powdered confidence...
Nathan reaches for powdered confidence...

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By Andy Busse
Administrator
From: Rapid City, SD
Apr 24, 2005

Can anyone provide me with route info about the bolts directly to climber's left of Pelican's Dyke? They seem to be recently placed and lead to nowhere? ThanksAndrew
By Anonymous Coward
Sep 19, 2005

The climbing on the newer version (straight up the dyke) is actually quite fine. Be advised to take a longer sling or quick draw for the bolt just above the crux bulge. What was the 1st ascent party thinking about by bolting the line slightly left on the bottom section? There are now at least 12 bolts to clip. Shares anchors with Solitaire so beware if someone is climbing that route. Morning sun; afternoon shade.
By quickdraw
May 29, 2008

It appears as though there are 3 bolted routes on the face of Pelican's Dyke. I understand from the comments that one is the original climb and one is a newer re-bolt. What is the 3rd one?

Thanks
By S. Stember
From: St. Paul, MN
Sep 8, 2008

Does Pelican's Dike share anchors with solitaire? The conversations above were not clear to me what was what.
By Alex Baker
Oct 4, 2009

Sevve what's up?

To answer a few questions:

1. Pelican dyke has an anchor at the top of the formation which you can see from the ground. The route is a bit contrived as it is quite easy to step left onto solitaire for the last moves, avoiding what may be the crux.

2.The route left of the two 'pelican dyke boltlines', which follows a smaller dike up and left until it runs out, is quite fun and feels ~ .11b or so. I haven't climbed at Rushmore much so don't take too much stock in my rating. Definitely a notch harder than 'the right pelican dyke boltline', but half as long with a very short crux section

Alex
By Caleb Hansen
From: Rapid City
Oct 29, 2009

The line farthest left, up the angling dyke is 'spinal tap'. 11b seems right. FUN CLIMB.
By Andy Busse
Administrator
From: Rapid City, SD
Dec 10, 2009

Caleb,
are you sure it is spinal tap and not They Came from MN??? where did you get your info and do you know FA??
thanks,
ab
By Caleb Hansen
From: Rapid City
Dec 13, 2009

Andrew,
Spinal tap was just hear say from a rawhide resident, FAs were out of MN i heard, but maybe spinal tap is just a local given name. More confusion for you sir... see soon.