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A Stroke of Brilliance 
Amphetamine Grip 
Animal Farm 
Bay of Pigs 
Bill's Flake 
Breakdown in Paradise 
Chairman Mao's Little Red Book 
Chouinard's Crack (1st Half Pitch of Peking) 
Commie Pinkos 
Dances with Clams 
Dirty Pinkos 
Finger Puppet 
Fingers of Fate 
Gulag Archipelago 
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Straight Outta' Peking 
Super Slab 


YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c

Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 300'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8- French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: VS 4c [details]
FA: Tom Bauman & Osa Thatcher May 5, 1969
Page Views: 1,572
Submitted By: corvegas on Feb 5, 2007
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (20)
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Leading the classic first pitch of Peking, c. 1994...
Seasonal Raptor Closure 2012 MORE INFO >>>


First pitch is classic, many stop at first set of anchors. The upper pitch is great fun though a little loose.

P1 - 5.8 - Hand traverse left to a splitter hand crack. Follow crack up to bolted belay, belay from bolts if planning on just doing first pitch. Or continue up another 60 ft to a good belay ledge blow the P2 crux. Belay from mid sized cams.

P2 - 5.8 - Crank the awkward 5.8 bulge then head striaght up untill your rope runs out. Belay mid sized cams.

4th class scamble to top.


Just to the left of Moscow.


Gear to 3"

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Shirley leading Peking in suboptimal conditions.
Shirley leading Peking in suboptimal conditions.
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By BenCooper
From: Chicago, IL
Apr 17, 2007

Climb the first pitch, then rap. The rest of the route is chossy and not fun at all. We were pulling delicately around dinner plate sized rocks for much of it, so we nicknamed it "mutually assured destruction." First pitch is great though.

By rpc
May 10, 2007

was it really that bad? I admit to doing it a couple years back but don't reacall anything looser than say Moscow next door on it?? An OK upper pitch but nothing like the opening crack of course.

By Alpine Carl
May 31, 2007

Yep, it was that bad: bad enough, anyway, to send me traversing right in hopes of bailing onto Moscow. There is a cool eagle's nest in the cave to the west, though.
P.S. Ben Kenobi didn't learn his lesson, though, and neither did I; we've both been spending a lot of time in the desert lately... And ironically, we've both been spending a lot time birding.

By ferrells
From: Minneapolis, MN
Dec 20, 2009

It seemed pretty chossy to me as well. From the ground, I saw a bunch of weeds and fractured rocks, but I thought: "It can't be that bad. Maybe it's only a short section."
I wanted to do Peking, after doing Moscow a couple weeks ago, so I climbed Chouinard's Crack (awesome), and joined Moscow for a while to avoid the crap above Chouinard's Crack. At every opportunity, I stepped left (through choss) and looked around, but never saw anything that looked worth climbing. And, yes, Moscow is quite a bit cleaner. Except for a few feet, Moscow is immaculate splitter cracks.

By K Baumgartner
Aug 4, 2012
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b

Climb the first half pitch and then link up with Moscow. The rest of Peking just isn't worth it. I didn't think the bulges after Chouniard's were any harder than 5.6+. Some fractured rock and a ton of bird doodoo.