|O Crags (Three Finger Canyon)
|Type: ||Trad, 4 pitches, 369', Grade II|
|Consensus: || YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b [details]|
|FA: ||Paul Ross (P1) ,Lance Bateman (P2/3/4) May 8th 2010|
|New Route: ||Yes|
|Page Views: ||617|
|Submitted By: ||USBRIT on May 12, 2010|
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Paul coming up third pitch.
Named after a climb on Scawfell in the English Lake District ,first climbed in 1952 by the late Peter Greenwood my climbing mentor.Situated at the right end of the Berghaus Wall,about 30' down to the right of "The Crack".
P1)Climb into a shallow groove ,easy climbing to a bolt at about 25'.From here follow about 12 bolts to double anchors. An interesting pitch worth doing as a single pitch route. 160'5.10-.
P2) Move up and over right from the belay to double anchors.50' 5.3.
P3) A sustained pitch.Climb to the triangular roof and pull this to a fine hand crack. Up this and enter the larger crack system follow this to double anchors.150'5.10.
P4)Continue up a short section of poor rock but well protected by a bolt and cams to the summit.60'5.10.Register in small cairn about 15' above anchors.
Descent :- Rap the route.Due to the angle the FA party down climbed the second pitch to the final rap anchors.
Three Fingers Canyon on the Berghaus Wall . Walk through the canyon and hike the talus to the right. About 10mins from trail head.
Cams double set from 1/2" to 4". Stoppers, Slings, two 60m ropes