Type: Trad, 150 ft (45 m), 2 pitches
FA: Rich Leswing, Jim Cunningham, and Peggy Collins 7/21/82
Page Views: 3,919 total · 20/month
Shared By: Robert Hall on Dec 16, 2007
Admins: Morgan Patterson, Kevin MudRat MacKenzie, Jim Lawyer

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

Was once A "must do" for first-time visitors to the Adirondacks as a 5.7+, but since a crux handhold-block came off a few years ago the grade is now 5.8+  - 5.9 ( see comments )  

Pitch 1:

Start this route on the off-width size crack that leads to the large belay. (5.7 / 40 feet) You can also reach this spot by easy 5th class on the flake/chimney on the right.

Pitch 2:

Leave the belay and head off right aiming to turn the roof. The crux moves lead past this roof (bolt), then finish up easier ground to the rim of the cliff. (Somewhere between 5.8+ and 5.10-  PG / 110 feet)

Enjoy the big air below you, strenuous and thoughtful climbing all over the route, and clean rock abound.

History: This route was one of the classics of the region until the roof collapsed in 2008, taking with it the only protection through this section. What remained was a lone, unstable tooth hanging from the [now higher] roof. This finally fell too. A bolt was added in 2016, reinstating this classic upper pitch.

Location Suggest change

In the center of the Lower Beer Walls, about 200 feet to the left of the Pats' Blue Ribbon alcove is a large detached flake leaning against the cliff. This is it.

Protection Suggest change

A standard rack with a nice variety of passive pro. Long slings and a couple cordelettes. If you want to rap this route, bring a tag line, or climb with doubles.

Photos

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