climb left side of a large flake toward the North end of the East face, then up flaring finger and hand crack (10c) to good ledge. P2: move belay left, climb Right angling steep dihedral (10+) to a nice pine tree to belay. P3: up easy wide crack then fingers in dihedral to overhanging pod (10-) then short face to awesome summit. Rap South face original route (3x with one 70m and a little scrambling).
East face of Mt Hayden. Approach via gully north of Pt Imperial. approach time: 1.5-2hrs, this is the crux!
dbl set to 3.5
Nov 14, 2007
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
OK Greg, there you are. Not the greatest pics but at least it's something.
|By Paul Davidson|
May 14, 2008
FA - Paul Davidson, Jim Haisley ~ Spring 1982
We rapped the route, Pegasus, w/ double 9s. Much cleaner than std rappel.
The above description is inacurrate for the first pitch, or else my directions are 180 out.
If the climb ascends the N face, which I believe it does, then the first pitch starts on the N side almost at the W corner.
Up a rounded corner, crack to where it ends and a bit of slightly run out 5.10 takes you right to another thin crack up to a tree on the ledge. I believe we thought this might be +, can't recall since it's been 20+ years.
EDIT: I think first pitch can be seen in the lower right side of Pernell's pic. Starts right side of the block, corner ? Ends at the tree right at the edge of the ledge.
|By A. Frost|
Mar 4, 2010
No offense intended, but I think your route is on the E face. There is a route on the N face, but it's not nearly as aesthetic or difficult (although it involves some scary choss wrangling through the Supai).
When we did Pegasus, I started to the left of the block visible in Pernell's photo, which is obvious in the photo I just added.
By the way, the second pitch OW is one of the most energetic thrutches I've yet enjoyed. Every bit of 10+.
A beautiful line.
|By Paul Davidson|
Mar 9, 2010
Interesting... I didn't have a compass but I sure thought this face was more northerly looking than any other direction. I suppose it might be the NW face but when you are at the over look, aren't you looking pretty much due east and looking mostly across Pegasus, you're not really looking straight onto the route but you can sort of see the face it is on. If it were the E face, I don't think you could see it at all from the overlook. I always thought the classic photos from Pt. Imperial were looking at the W face.
I've always thought it was the best pure rock climb in the canyon that I'd done. SFace of Zoro is classic, as is Buddha but the hand crack out the bulge at the top of the 2nd pitch is just stellar.
I wonder about the rappel route on Zoro, that could be even better up that headwall. But the position, the exposure and the awesome summit, well... hard to beat. Certainly one of my most favorite FAs. Bit of a walk for three pitches though :-)
What is the left side of the block like ? Does it involve a move from one thin crack to another ? If this is the E face, then I suppose I could have had left and right also reversed.
The Supai wrangle you mention I believe is the LB and ? (Stan) route done a year or two after this one.
Sep 6, 2012
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
This is a true adventure! The approach is most likely the hardest approach to climb a desert tower I have ever done. The climb down the gully is probably a consistant 45 degrees. If you pick the wrong route through the bushes, you'll find yourself in the most horrible forest of Mexican Locust. Also, the climbing is full value and then some for the grade and size of the route.