A really cool intro to mixed climbing... The climbing is moderate, well protected and everywhere you stick your tool you find just what you want... A must do if you are interested at all in dry tooling...
Pitch 1: climb the regular start to Pegasus then move right to a 2 bolt belay between a short pillar and the Hobbit gully...
Pitch 2: Climb the short steep pillar left of the belay then up in to the corner... Clip pins and sink in to perfect dry-tooling up the corner stemming when possible... then pull the awkward top out and belay from the trees...
really great fun...
A cool variation start is to head up Hobbit Couloir climbing the beginning of the gully breaking left up a smear of ice and on to a few cool bulges leading right up to the pillar before the mixed stuff on the Rock Finish...
climb the first pitch of Pegasus heading right to a 2 bolt belay just left of Hobbit...
Screws a few nuts and cams to back up the 3 pins, or just trust them and don't fall...
|By Jay Knower|
From: Campton, NH
Feb 17, 2008
I remember climbing the rock finish once and saying to myself, "This is the best ice climbing I have ever done." Then I realized that I was climbing rock. That showed me that I am a rock climber first and an ice climber as a very distant second.
My point is that the rock finish is a perfect drytooling experience. You are still using tools and crampons, but with the added solidity of rock. Highly recommended.
|By Jesse Morehouse|
Jun 1, 2008
rating: WI3 M3
A great intro to mixed climbing on great gear.
|By E thatcher|
From: Plymouth/ North Conway (NH)
Feb 6, 2010
Steepest grade 3 I've ever done. Just sayin', the pillar kicked my ass today.
|By J Antin|
From: Denver, CO
Feb 16, 2010
rating: WI3 M3
Someone should put more pitons on the rock finish.....
|By Chris Graham|
From: Bartlett, NH
Nov 7, 2010
I always cheat and holster a tool. What a fun pitch though!
|By A Terray|
From: San Diego, CA
Feb 20, 2012
The Pillar is WI4. I was sinking pics into fresh ice. Apparently it doesn't get climbed as often as the surrounding classics.
|By Bob A|
Feb 11, 2014
I would have to agree about that pillar not being a 3.
I think the only reason it gets that is how short it is.
That is the steepest grade 3 pillar I have ever done ;)
Great route for sure