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Peer 42 

YDS: 5.13a French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ British: E6 6c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.13a French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ British: E6 6c [details]
FA: Tod Anderson, Mark Felty (left var.)
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 2,062
Submitted By: Tod Anderson on Sep 13, 2002
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Like the tights? First 13a. Big moment up there ...

Description 

This route is a variation to Peer Review, taking an alternate line through the first roof. Do the first pitch of Peer Review and continue up the left hand line of bolts staying right of the arete. Long slings in a couple of places or unclipping some bolts will be necessary to avoid rope drag on this long pitch. A 60m rope will reach to the ledge. I'm not sure if anyone has done the right hand variation yet. The hardest part of that was after the roof, being able to move up. Enjoy!


Protection 

16 quicks & a few long slings to ease rope drag.



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By jhump
Feb 19, 2010

Really good route. I thought the bottom 12b was my favorite in the canyon. This extension only adds value. Anyone out there to confirm the 13a grade? It felt easier than at least one 12d I have done. But that was 9 months ago and I could be stronger now. Thoughts?

By Curt MacNeill
From: Boulder, CO
Feb 15, 2013

Great extension to Peer Review! The crux is the moves right off the the anchors of Peer Review which leads into some bouldery slapping up the arete. I skipped both the bolt in the first roof and at the lip, which would have been a fairly sizeable whip right in the middle of the crux. The next 3 bolts I hung long runners and had absolutely no rope drag pulling the final roof. I also had a long runner at the anchors of the 12b. I recommend doing it this way for some exciting, adrenaline pumping fun! Thought it was consistent with 13a for the grade. Although the rock is not as high quality as the 12b, the amazing position pulling 2 roofs gives its 3 stars for sure. P.S.- There is a great sneaky rest at the first set of anchors before entering the crux. I was able to get everything back with the proper use of body position and balance, and it did not require me to go off route. Good luck finding it and have fun, this route is a blast....

By mlloyd
From: denver
Apr 15, 2013

Very good climbing, should be climbed more.