|2,195 page views|
|Type: ||Aid, 1 pitch, 100', Grade II|
|Consensus: ||C2 [details]|
|Submitted By: ||shawn on Nov 3, 2006|
BETA PHOTO: Peeler Direct is the thin crack to the left of the...
Very thin crack with so so gear. I think if you fell, a lot of the gear would pull out until you hit the four bolts at the start.
From the top of Riveting head up four more bolts to realy thin crack with a bashie as the first move. Climb the thin crack with marginal gear.
BD C3's, ballnuts, and small nuts work well. Bring tons and tons of small stuff.
BETA PHOTO: Me just starting up and still on the bolt ladder s...
BETA PHOTO: I'm on the bashie at the bottom of the crack.
BETA PHOTO: I'm about 10-15' up the crack with a few marginal ...
BETA PHOTO: Looking up from the ramp at the top of Riveting.
BETA PHOTO: Looking down at Shaun G. and Adam.
BETA PHOTO: A look down from about half way up.
BETA PHOTO: Here is one of the better nut placements. This is...
BETA PHOTO: This was by far the best cam placements. This is ...
BETA PHOTO: Photo of Black peeler and Riveting.
BETA PHOTO: Shaun G. Setting up for the Peeler.
BETA PHOTO: Shaun G. Heading up the Bolt ladder section.
BETA PHOTO: Shaun G. Getting into the top steps.
BETA PHOTO: Shaun G. reaching to clip the bashie at the bottom...
|Comments on Peeler Direct
|By Ben Sukow|
Nov 5, 2006
The gear's really not too bad on this one. Small offset nuts work really well for the midsection of the climb, either HBs or Wild Country superlight rocks. C3s or hybrid aliens work well down low, and there are good tcu and nut placements later in the climb. A cam hook can be really useful to skip some of the marginal, fiddly nut placements.
Don't clip the rope to the fixed bashy after aiding on it. If you fall it will rip and that part of the climb probably won't go clean if the bashy is gone.
Also, a single rope rap with a 60 m rope will just get you to the ground from the rap station at the top of the crack (tie knots in the end).
|By Greg G|
From: SLC, UT
Jul 11, 2011
I thought the gear on this was easy, and straight forward. I carried 2 metolius offset cams (0-1,1-2) a set of peenuts, one small cam hook, and a standard rack from 00 metolius to .75 BD c4. perfect rack for this climb. Definitely fun!
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Jul 9, 2012
This climb is actually 2 pitches, sharing the same first pitch as Black peeler, but they diverge at the ramp. On P2, it is a pretty long reach from the last bolt to the bashie even though I was top stepping. Maybe the bashie was at the bottom of the crack before like it says in the description, but it is at least another foot higher than where I was expecting it considering that the bolts to get there can be ascended from the 2nd or 3rd steps. I had to top step and tie a quickdraw open to get the extra inches to reach the bashie and I was in directly to the last bolt. Maybe a top-step sub-step would have worked. This is a fun clean aid route.
Gear: small gear up to a #0.5 C4 for Peeler direct, and a #0.75 can be placed if doing P1 of Black Peeler to access the ramp and start of the route. Mastercams and small nuts worked well, offsets would have helped, cam hooks got their use, but no other body weight/hooks/peckers were necessary.