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The Crow's Nest
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Calypso S 
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Corvus B. TR 
Crow's Nest, The S 
Dingy, The S 
Ill Gotten Booty S 
J-boat T 
Keel Hauled S 
Keel-Ho S 
Land Ho! S 
Little Mermaid, The S 
Mussels S 
Mutiny S 
Nantucket Sleigh Ride S 
Pee Wee's Big Adventure T 
S.O.S. S 
Saint Elmo's Fire S 
Scuttlebutt S 
Sea Breeze S 
Seasick S 
Starboard Drift T 
Trad's Nest, The S 
Walk the Plank S 
Woman Overboard S 

Pee Wee's Big Adventure 

YDS: 5.4 French: 4a Ewbanks: 12 UIAA: IV ZA: 10 British: VD 3c

   
Type:  Trad
Consensus:  YDS: 5.4 French: 4a Ewbanks: 12 UIAA: IV ZA: 10 British: VD 3c [details]
FA: Mark Sprague 7/97
Page Views: 1,720
Submitted By: lee hansche on May 24, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (21)
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BETA PHOTO: Peewee's BIG ADVENTURE not peewee's play house... ...

Note: New route moratorium area MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This is a great practice trad route!!! If you are just learning to place gear and want a cool route to get on and sew up with bomber gear, then you must do this climb.... It takes nuts cams and tricams very well and is more fun than most other super moderate trad routes....

Start by scrambling up to a stance on a cracked ledge.... Place a couple pieces and head up the crack system.... There are a bunch of cracks to choose from follow the path of least resistance as the angle eases up the cracks are fewer and some friction is helpful....

A good toprope for beginners....

Location 

Look for the multi-cracked face to slab as you approach the crow's nest.... It used to be the first route you come to, but there are a few routes right of it now.... PeeWee's is just right of the newly added bolted chimney climb....

Protection 

Trad gear up to #1 or #2 cam...takes nuts really well...2 bolt anchor....


Photos of Pee Wee's Big Adventure Slideshow Add Photo
This was my first ever trad lead, and as you can see, it takes gear very well.
BETA PHOTO: This was my first ever trad lead, and as you can s...

Comments on Pee Wee's Big Adventure Add Comment
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By Jeffrey LeCours
From: New Hampshire
Mar 21, 2010
rating: 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c

Surprisingly fun and as mentioned above, a great place to practice placing gear
By matthewWallace
From: plymouth, nh
Aug 20, 2010
rating: 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c

Great practice trad climb! My friend did this for his second trad lead ever and he really enjoyed it. Its good to have a new trad climber lead this and have someone who knows placements follow it and check the gear placements.
By kenr
Aug 5, 2011

Good climb -- but it should be longer to justify hauling a trad rack up that far.
The first 15 feet seemed kind of strenuous for 5.4 -- and it seemed to me the protection possibilities thru that section were pretty flaring, so I just climbed thru it. The landing below there was very slopy, so could take quite a tumble down the hill if actually fell - (good reason to remember to anchor the belayer, also).
Placing stoppers in the cracks for say the next 10 feet above that seemed kind of "fiddly" to me -- glad I brought camalots+friends. Then in the upper half I started to get good stopper placements. I didn't find need for anything larger than #2 camalot or a normal range of stoppers.

So I'd say it's a good practice trad lead only for someone who's already climbing strong well above 5.4, so they're sure they're not going to fall in that first section.
By MLevine
From: Nashua, NH
Apr 6, 2013

Achievement Unlocked: First trad lead!

Everything went smoothly but I know I still have a lot to learn, none of my pieces pulled and they held up to a pretty rigorous pull test....that's a good sign right? This was a lot of fun.
By B-Mkll
From: Bozeman, MT
Jul 23, 2013

This was the scene of a mini-epic for me and my climbing partner. The climb itself went smoothly and easily... until we decided to continue upwards in search of a walk-off rather than abandon gear for the rappel. What followed was the dirtiest mixed scramble/climb pitch up a mossy, spider infested gully in which I placed exactly two nuts in almost 120 vertical feet, followed by an hour-long bushwhack down to the base of Crow's Nest.

Yet still fun.
By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Jul 23, 2013

Ah, there is a pair of big fat glue-ins for an anchor, hopefully still with pairs of 1/2" quicklinks on each. I am not sure how you could have missed them unless you were quite off route. At least you had an adventure!
By MLevine
From: Nashua, NH
Jul 24, 2013

Mark - I led this back in March. There are definitely two solid glue-in bolts but there were no quicklinks. At least there weren't in March.
By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Jul 28, 2013

Thanks. It is on the list for new rings as soon as the order comes in.