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 ADVANCED
Middle Cathedral Rock
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Bircheff-Williams T 
Border Country T 
Bottom Feeder T 
Cat Dancing T 
Central Pillar of Frenzy T 
Desperate for Doughnuts T 
Direct North Buttress (DNB) T 
East Buttress T 
Ennui T 
Father Time T 
Flakes, The T 
Freewheelin' T 
Ho Chi Minh Trail T 
Home Run T 
Kor-Beck T 
North Buttress T 
Paradise Lost T 
Pee Pee Pillar T 
Quicksilver T 
Rainbow bridge S 
Ramer S 
Spank Your Monkey T 
Stoner's Highway T 
Stupid Pet Tricks T 
Tears of Joy T 
Unsorted Routes:

Pee Pee Pillar 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 95'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Peter Barton, Eric Schoen, George Meyers, Bob Ashworth 1974
Page Views: 1,512
Submitted By: Nate Weitzel on Oct 8, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (34)
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Description 

Single pitch route that is an excellent warm up for the other routes at the base. Climbs a nice dihedral right of the start of Paradise Lost, and left of the DNB. Invloves finger locks, laybacks and stemming. Watch out for some polished feet during the crux. Gear is solid.

Location 

As above, start right of Paradise lost in an obvious dihedral and follow the crack to a bolted anchor. Single 60m rope will get you down.

Protection 

Standard rack; nuts and cams from 3/8 " size to 2.5"


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By Russ Walling
From: www.FishProducts.com
Feb 4, 2007

Not bad if you are in the area.... very slick in spots. Easy to top rope after someone tops out.
Watch for rockfall around the base of Middle.
By Sirius
From: Oakland, CA
Oct 7, 2007

I'll second Russ' warning on rock fall. Good idea to leave your helmet on in this area.
By Matt Desenberg
From: North Berwick, ME
May 3, 2009

Great pro from what I remember, short crux. Not a bad first .10 lead in the valley
By Andy Laakmann
Site Landlord
From: Bend, OR
Oct 15, 2011

Excellent climb. Two cruxes... one right at the bottom and then the layback. Great gear. I didn't place anything larger than a #2 camalot.