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 ADVANCED
2. Yellow Lichen Buttress
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Behind The Tree T,TR 
Cactus Platform Face TR 
Pedestal Left T,TR 
Pedestal Right T,TR 
Yellow Lichen Crack T,TR 
Unsorted Routes:

Pedestal Right 

YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 438
Submitted By: Pete Hunt on Sep 22, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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Pedestal Right during Spring '11.

Description 

Go straight up the center of the east face to the big ledge half way up and then follow the dihedral up to the top. The first crux is just before gaining the big ledge. The next and more difficult crux is the first couple of moves getting into the dihedral. It protects well, especially after you gain the ledge. The protection for the first half is limited to mostly small and somewhat tricky nut placements, but it's adequate and the climbing is very easy.

Be wary of some loose chockstones in the dihedral that detract from the quality of the climb. This is another decent lead if you're looking for something mellow.

Location 

Start just to the right of the large pedestal and go straight to the ledge and into the dihedral that takes you to the top.

Protection 

Standard TR set up, long slings are helpful.

A set of nuts and some small to medium cams will do the job for leading. Definitely nothing bigger than a 3" cam. The pro gets better once you get to the prominent ledge half way up. Until then, use small nuts or a #2 Camalot in a pocket.


Photos of Pedestal Right Slideshow Add Photo
View of the upper dihedral portion of the climb.
View of the upper dihedral portion of the climb.

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By Stranger Than Iowa
From: ia
Jul 22, 2012

I thought this took gear well compared to other climbs at the mounds. Ample supply of features to build an anchor for the second. Descent gully directly behind that exits behind pedestal left