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Routes in Owls Head Mountain
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Breeze Crack T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Central AC T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Fire In The Sky TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Hooters T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Let It Burn TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Owl Crack T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13 |
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Peckers T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Smoke on the Water TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Wind Song T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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| Type: | Trad, 60 ft (18 m) |
| FA: | Justin Serpico and Mike Hazard |
| Page Views: | 1,046 total · 10/month |
| Shared By: | J. Serpico on Jun 2, 2015 |
| Admins: | Morgan Patterson, Kevin MudRat MacKenzie, Jim Lawyer |
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Access Issue: As of June 2017, the trail and parking are closed from 4 PM Friday through 7 AM Monday.
Details
Due to overcrowding and private land issues, the town of Keene and local landowners have come to a compromise regarding the parking on Owls Head Lane, and use of the trail to Owls Head Mountain, which crosses private land. The parking and trail are hereby closed on weekends, from 4 PM Friday through 7 AM Monday. The trail will be permanently closed at the end of the 2017 hiking season.
Description
Attempting to keep feet dry, climb the finger crack in the corner and traverse right a step or two under the overhang. Pull the overhang (crux) and climb either or both of the parralel cracks above to the 4th class terrain below the summit. Scramble the remaining 20ft to the top. (first ascent stemmed both cracks due to them being filled with dirt, moss and trees. once clean it may be possible to climb either crack). It is possible to build an anchor directly over climb, but far back from the cliff edge, at the summit with 3 mid size cams.
Location
Start 10ft right of Breeze Crack at a right facing wet corner with a low overhang about 12ft up. Walk off to the climbers left.
Protection
The crux is low but the gear is good above the crux. the cracks above are still being cleaned and may be difficult to protect. Gear: Mostly nuts and finger size cams up to #1 camalot. For the anchor on the summit approximately .75, 1, and 2 camalot sized cams will build a bomber anchor. There are no trees anywhere near the top. Gear only.
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