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South Canyon
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Peckerhead T 

Peckerhead 

A1+

   
Type:  Trad, Aid, 1 pitch, 30'
Consensus: A1+ [details]
FA: Jason Kaplan
New Route: Yes
Season: most
Page Views: 161
Submitted By: Jason Kaplan on May 15, 2012

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Description 

A steep vertical seam leads to a horizontal seam (a bolt protects and eases access to the horizontal). Then another steep vertical seam goes up to and through a trough to the top.

Rap off a slung boulder (pre existing). There is a nice looking groove above this and some bouldering to be had in the gully above.

Location 

Park at the pullout on the off ramp, then head back to the drainage to the northeast. The route is in the middle of the wall at the pour-over up the drainage. There is a bolt at the base under a rock for soloing and another empty hole which I slid an oversized-nail into.

Protection 

Ha ha ha. Peckers (mostly small but some of the bigger sizes work in places), a couple beaked RURPs, then an arrow get you to the hangerless bolt (loop a stopper over it). RURPs get you through the horizontal, and I used the arrow again to access the upper seam, I think I swapped it for a secure large pecker once I opened it up though.


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