|Beckey's Wall Area
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This route is an excellent variation for the final pitch of Beckey's Wall. From the 2nd belay station, continue up Beckeys for 10-20 feet and then work right along a ledge system. From here you can see the line of bolts. Climb the left line of bolts. The last bolt can be hard to pick out, it is there. From the anchors climb up and over (west) until you can reach some easily downclimbed ledge systems. These will take you to a large pine tree with slings, a cable, a biner, and 2 old rap rings (Five Fingers Rappel). Rap down and then downclimb and head east, where you can reach the Half-a-Finger anchors for a 2nd rap. The rock on this route is nice, albeit a bit flaky. Definitely a nice alternative to the easy gully scramble that finishes Beckey's Wall.
5 bolts and a 2 bolt anchor. A couple of pieces could take a bite out of the beginning cruiser section.
Pebbles & Bam Bam
Haley cruising the slab as always
From: Olympic Valley, CA
May 23, 2005
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c
This is a great pitch to do when doing Beckey's Wall. There are some runs between a few bolts, but just keep moving from chicken head to chicken head and you'll be to the next bolt before you realize.
I usually bring two 60m ropes when I do this climb. From the top anchors on Pebbles and Bambam one TWO rope rap gets you to the top of the second pitch of Beckey's and one more TWO rope rap gets you back at your packs. Be considerate not to throw you ropes on top of anyone if others are following you up.
|By Nathan Fisher|
Jun 30, 2005
1 70 meter rope gets you to the tree at the base of the route which has slings to get you to the top of Beckey's. Very stimulating lead getting to the 4th bolt.
|By Jason Billings|
From: Draper, UT
Jul 8, 2005
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a
Just did this climb yesterday. This is a much bettter 3rd Pitch to Beckey's than the 5.4 crack. With a 70M rope you can run Beckey's all the way up to the tree skipping both of the standard Beckey's belay stations. If you're going to slingshot this route you will need the 70M rope for sure. All though most bolts are spaced around 15ft apart I woulnt' call this route runout. You can also get off this route with a 70M rope in 2 raps. Once from the rings on the tree and once from the first set of Becky's chains.
From: Small Lake, UT
Jun 24, 2008
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a
The 4th (?) bolt in the black water streak is strangely placed and drags you out on easy ground, making you either bypass the last part of the slab (probably the most fun) or climb it with a bunch of drag even if you use long runners. I thought about running it out and skipping that bolt but that leaves a lot of air under your ass.
Then again I might have been confused and clipped a bolt from date with fate... Fun climbing either way.
I'd recommend rapping from the top of the route to the tree at the top of Fingertip Variation then downclimbing (spooky)/belaying down to the chains on top of Beckey's for the next rappel.
You can rap straight down from the tree to the intermediate Beckey's anchor but the slings around the tree are short and pulling your rope will be a major pain.
From: Oakland Park, Florida
Jul 1, 2008
I did this finish after looking at 3rd Pitch of Beckys, and thinking it did not look as fun as that slab. This pitch is great. Every time it starts getting scary you get to another chicken head to rest on. If you like slab you will love this variation. I skipped that last bolt it looked off route to me.
|By Stevie Nacho|
May 23, 2010
After the third bolt, go left into the black water streak. If you look directly up, you'll see a bolt really high. This bolt is an added bolt that really doesn't make sense, don't run it out to here! There is also a new "calderone" route to the left. Since I last did this route, it was obvious climbing with following the bolts. Now, you have to decipher which bolts to climb to. Anyhow, this route is fun if you can figure out the original bolt line to follow.
TO CLIMB THE ORIGINAL PEBBELS AND BAMBAM, CLIMB UP THREE BOLTS THEN ARCH LEFT INTO THE BLACK WATER STREAK THEN CLIMB TO THE CHAINS
|By Pete Spri|
Jun 4, 2011
Sort of irritating issue keeps coming up. When you do this with a 70 meter, you must rap to the tree. I've replaced webbing and left rap rings on this tree 2x, and every time I go up there, all of the slings are cut off.
I'm now rapping directly off the tree with the rope. Probably wont be long till it's dead.
|By Christian West|
Oct 14, 2011
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a
I did this climb today after Becky's wall, it was a good climb. Every time it got sketchy, you'd get to the next chicken head.
|By Dean Raynes|
Oct 25, 2011
I choose the left line of bolts going straight up the Blake streak. Evidently it's not Pebbles and Bambam but it was a fun 5.9 slab a bit runout to the second bolt. And from the looks of the slab the black streak looks more consistent slab climbing rather then chickenhead hopping on the right line of bolts. Just make sure you have fun!
|By Stan Pitcher|
From: SLC, UT
Apr 23, 2012
No need to rap off the tree on the ledge as its a very easy down climb to the Becky p2 anchors!
Sep 22, 2013
Climbed this route earlier this summer and found it superb! I climbed the route with my best friend, who's father was on the FA party. His father passed away a few years ago, so this route was a very special lead for my buddy. When we both got to the top, we spread some of his ashes and enjoyed the beautiful bliss of the canyon. I'll always remember that climb.
|By Garret Nuzzo-Jones|
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Apr 10, 2014
rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI HVS 4c PG13
This route was a lot of fun. Kind of confusing and wandering with all the bolts up there now, but super fun.
Based on everyone's beta here I believe you will clip a total of four bolts on the route. Three in a very slightly rightward trending line and then the nice long runout left to the fourth bolt in the water streak. A tiny cam could be placed above that before the chains but it's easy ground and if you ran it out to that fourth bolt you should be comfy here. There is a possible fifth bolt to clip if you contrive yourself onto the slab for a few more moves. The rock is extremely flaky there though.
Bring a .3 with a double length runner to throw in the flake on the right to protect the moves to the first bolt. No matter how you slice it though, the climb will be a little bit run out.
From: all over, mostly Utah
Apr 10, 2014
This is a fun route. When I was there last year on a road trip I noticed that the whole area around there (and The Black Peeler) have been machine gunned with new bolts. Definitely different from when I was there in 2009. I will add, the new bolts seem to be table scraps. I did manage to veer up and left above Pebbles and Bam Bam on some nondescript mediocre strangely bolted pitches. Any info on those pitches?