Pebble Beach  5.10a X

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Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 160 feet Consensus:  5.10a/b [details] FA:  Dave Dunblazier, ~1984 Submitted By:  slim on Oct 1, 2005 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

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Description 

This is not a very independent route, but the climbing is excellent.

Find the directions for "Fool's Gold", listed on this site. Pebble Beach climbs the first half to the right-leaning dihedral. Pull straight up over the headwall on good jugs that afford good pro. Then head almost straight left. Ken Trout's old rock and ice guide from '86 says "Dave says there is a nut placement out there somewhere". [It's] true. Too bad it is only about 8 feet from your previous placement. You can't really see it until you are almost on top of it. From there, punch it straight up to the "Beam Me Up Scotty" anchors, or up and left to the anchors for "Buffalo Soldier". you can TR it pretty easily from the "... Scotty" anchors.

From here, you can rap with 2 ropes, or take one of the upper pitches to the top (5.7 to 5.9, scarce pro).

Protection 

Couple quickdraws, runners, light rack from stoppers to thin hands cams.