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Can you say thin start? Right of the leaning crack is a black streak with a very thin pocket start (5.11d). Ultra-technical feet and trust in the little nothings for the hands will gain a casual ledge at 25 feet. Cop a chill. The final section uses the big flake which will toss you out to some very thin pebble pinching just below the anchor. Pebble Beach would pick up another star if it were not for the break in continuity at mid height. Good addition.
Fist full of draws and a rope.
By Jason Haas
From: Broomfield, CO
Apr 30, 2006
Why do you say this is only two stars because it is not sustained, yet give K.M. right next to it four stars? I think this route is a lot more sustained, for one thing there isn't a no-hands rest on it like on K.M. Both are probably the best routes on the wall, that's for sure. I also felt this route was harder than K.M. I onsighted K.M. but it took me two burns to fire this route.
Dec 15, 2010
Now...I feel that this climb deserves a 12 rating. There is no way that those first few moves to make the 1st clip and the 2 or so moves after it are anything less than a 12a. It is a tough and good climb though! The second crux towards the top is muy interesting as well. Good climb!