Peasants Into Leaders
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|The majority of these boulders are located within the Mt Evans Wilderness Area, which is regulated & patrolled by the US Forest Service. Climber MORE INFO >>>|
This is the striking highball line to the left of Pink Fink and Snow White.
There are two cruxes. The power crux is the start which features a large move to a sloping hold. The second crux is a reach from a high step after having established on the crimps in the dominant seam.
Beta: Underclings to start, left foot on first, jump right foot on. Long reach with right hand to a sloping crack. Match. Cross left hand to a decent hold and get feet up on smears. Left foot out on a smear (not the higher one), and reach out left of the overlap to a good left facing sidepull crimp at the beginning of the seam. Walk right foot through to a cup shaped smear (good). Right hand gets a decent gaston. High step smear by your shoulder and commit (lift off the good right foot) to a decent left hand sidepull. Right foot up and grab the ledge (not as good as it looks--features two crimps on the left side). Left hand up to a knob sidepull undercling and bring your right foot onto the ledge. Then work the (thankfully good) sidepulls and gastons low in the seam. Stand up tall and reach around right to crimps around the sloping ledge (the seam continues back on this ledge). Match the crimps and mantle onto the sloping ledge, stand up and reach the lip. Easy top out. Warning: do not go left upon reaching the crimps on the sloping ledge, there is nothing there but hideously greasy slopers. One of the 5 best highballs at Evans.
Begin on underclings, a decent right foot, and a left foot smear. It is hard to start. This can be seen by looking up valley from the top of the boulder with The Ladder.
3-4 pads. Spotters who like you. High injury potential.
BETA PHOTO: Bennett Scott starting up on the FA of Peasants In...
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