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Peasants Into Leaders
V7 YDS 7A+ Font R
Avg: 3.2 from 6 votes
Type: | Boulder, Alpine, 30 ft (9 m) |
FA: | Ben Scott |
Page Views: | 3,212 total · 18/month |
Shared By: | tcamillieri on Sep 19, 2009 |
Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: Most of these boulders are within the Mt. Blue Sky (formerly Mount Evans) Wilderness Area, regulated & patrolled by the US.
Details
Most boulders are located within the Mt. Blue Sky (formerly Mount Evans) Wilderness Area, regulated & patrolled by the USFS. Climbers should be on their best behavior, practice Leave No Trace. Please abide by these requirements: it can take vegetation decades to recover from damage. Place crash pads judiciously, & keep brushing to a minimum. Before adding new lines, considered the damage that may be caused by additional foot traffic, pads, etc.
Chalk is unsightly to non-climbers. Please avoid chalking up boulder problems that are visible from the Chicago Lakes Trail, & in general, keep chalk use to a minimum. Brush all tick marks off after every session. Use containers that prevent chalk spills & if you do spill, clean it up.
Stashing crash pads is forbidden by the USFS. Pads will be confiscated.
Noise: this is a Wilderness area that is enjoyed by many, mostly non-climbers. The last thing passing hikers want to hear are f-bombs, iPod speakers, grunting, etc. In fact, most other CLIMBERS don't want to hear any of these things either. The easiest way for us to lose access is to elicit complaints from other user groups.
Dogs must be leashed at all times, they scare wildlife. Obviously, clean up after your dog.
Remember we are guests in this area. Be respectful of other users & the USFS Rangers that manage this area.
Chalk is unsightly to non-climbers. Please avoid chalking up boulder problems that are visible from the Chicago Lakes Trail, & in general, keep chalk use to a minimum. Brush all tick marks off after every session. Use containers that prevent chalk spills & if you do spill, clean it up.
Stashing crash pads is forbidden by the USFS. Pads will be confiscated.
Noise: this is a Wilderness area that is enjoyed by many, mostly non-climbers. The last thing passing hikers want to hear are f-bombs, iPod speakers, grunting, etc. In fact, most other CLIMBERS don't want to hear any of these things either. The easiest way for us to lose access is to elicit complaints from other user groups.
Dogs must be leashed at all times, they scare wildlife. Obviously, clean up after your dog.
Remember we are guests in this area. Be respectful of other users & the USFS Rangers that manage this area.
Description
This is the striking highball line to the left of Pink Fink and Snow White.
There are two cruxes. The power crux is the start which features a large move to a sloping hold. The second crux is a reach from a high step after having established on the crimps in the dominant seam.
Beta: Underclings to start, left foot on first, jump right foot on. Long reach with right hand to a sloping crack. Match. Cross left hand to a decent hold and get feet up on smears. Left foot out on a smear (not the higher one), and reach out left of the overlap to a good left facing sidepull crimp at the beginning of the seam. Walk right foot through to a cup shaped smear (good). Right hand gets a decent gaston. High step smear by your shoulder and commit (lift off the good right foot) to a decent left hand sidepull. Right foot up and grab the ledge (not as good as it looks--features two crimps on the left side). Left hand up to a knob sidepull undercling and bring your right foot onto the ledge. Then work the (thankfully good) sidepulls and gastons low in the seam. Stand up tall and reach around right to crimps around the sloping ledge (the seam continues back on this ledge). Match the crimps and mantle onto the sloping ledge, stand up and reach the lip. Easy top out. Warning: do not go left upon reaching the crimps on the sloping ledge, there is nothing there but hideously greasy slopers. One of the 5 best highballs at Evans.
There are two cruxes. The power crux is the start which features a large move to a sloping hold. The second crux is a reach from a high step after having established on the crimps in the dominant seam.
Beta: Underclings to start, left foot on first, jump right foot on. Long reach with right hand to a sloping crack. Match. Cross left hand to a decent hold and get feet up on smears. Left foot out on a smear (not the higher one), and reach out left of the overlap to a good left facing sidepull crimp at the beginning of the seam. Walk right foot through to a cup shaped smear (good). Right hand gets a decent gaston. High step smear by your shoulder and commit (lift off the good right foot) to a decent left hand sidepull. Right foot up and grab the ledge (not as good as it looks--features two crimps on the left side). Left hand up to a knob sidepull undercling and bring your right foot onto the ledge. Then work the (thankfully good) sidepulls and gastons low in the seam. Stand up tall and reach around right to crimps around the sloping ledge (the seam continues back on this ledge). Match the crimps and mantle onto the sloping ledge, stand up and reach the lip. Easy top out. Warning: do not go left upon reaching the crimps on the sloping ledge, there is nothing there but hideously greasy slopers. One of the 5 best highballs at Evans.
Location
Begin on underclings, a decent right foot, and a left foot smear. It is hard to start. This can be seen by looking up valley from the top of the boulder with The Ladder.
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