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Pearls Before Swine 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Pat Malony, George Rosenthal & Tim Wolfe
Page Views: 1,615
Submitted By: Craig Martin on Jun 5, 2004
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Description 

Direct finish to the last pitch of Pentapitch. Tenuous, steep slab moves lead to interesting inverted edges. From the middle anchor on the last pitch of Pentapitch head up and slightly right following the bolts.


Protection 

6 quickdraws and chain anchors. It is best to lead this in one pitch from the giant ledge. No chance of factor 2 fall that way, as the first crux is between the middle anchor and the first bolt of this pitch.



Photos of Pearls Before Swine Slideshow Add Photo
On the unknown 5.10c
On the unknown 5.10c
Inverted edges...
Inverted edges...
95% smearing
95% smearing
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By Vince Romney
Jun 7, 2004
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b

If this is the line of bolts ascending directly up from the belay chains for the last pitch of Pentapitch, I think it is .10c. I met the guy while toproping at Strategem(first name Brian) who put it up . He said it was .10c. I did it last year and felt that was reasonably accurate, particularly between the 3rd and 4th bolt, where you have those inverted edges on the left, and nothing significant anywhere else. So, if you did this route and felt it was 9+, you are truly the slab monster...

By Anonymous Coward
Jul 2, 2005

I think Tim Wolfe and pat maloney put up this bolted finish to Pentapitch, not anyone named Brian?I can't remember the name, though.

By Nathan Fisher
Aug 8, 2005
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b

Great line that adds another fun slab pitch to Neuromancer/Nubbins lines. A little insecure getting to the first bolt, to say the least. I just kept thinking factor 2 fall, factor 2 fall. Beyond that the climbing is consistent, fun, non-LCC slab.

By Tim Wolfe
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Jun 2, 2006
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b

Pat Malony, George Rosenthal and I put this route up a few years ago. A jewel right in our face for years. No particular name, just a great slab climb without the serious runnouts on other slabs (it was rap drilled so we decided it needed to be fairly safe). I have climbed it 4 times. I think it is about 10c, definately harder than Fin arete or Kermits Wad, a bit easier than Angels Ladder or Dorsal Fin.

By Nathan Fisher
Jun 2, 2006
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b

Come on Tim, give us a name.

By steve santora
Oct 15, 2006

I've climbed this route several times, usually after doing the final pentapitch route. Rap down to the chains and give it a go....I've always wondered what this route is and would agree with the 10 c rating again at the first bolt area....Great Job Tim

By Patrick Maloney
Oct 19, 2009

George Rosenthal Gave this route the name "Pearls Before Swine" the day of the first ascent.
If DR. Wolfe is in agreement i think we should let George have the final word on this one. A solid 10c.