Pear Buttress 

Escalar - I have never done this route, but I have a story about the unprotectable first 20 or 30 feet. About 20 years ago we were on our way to climb the J-Crack when someone fell off of Pear Buttress. Just before we got to the base of the route, a guy came sprinting down the trail on his way to call for a rescue. Seconds later we heard the moans of the victim who was actually chanting "ohhmmmm". We reached him a few minutes later and found out what had happened. He fell nearly 30 feet and luckily landed on his feet, but unluckily also landed on a 4 inch diameter tree root which snapped his lower leg just above the ankle. He had a double compound fracture and was bleeding pretty badly when we got to him. Both bones were sticking out of his wool sock and the blood would really flow when he got anxoius, then it would nearly stop when he chanted and calmed down. We elevated his leg and tried to make him comfortable until the rescue team arrived, incredibly, about 45 minutes later. We never found out how he made out, but I bet his climbing career changed dramatically after that. We went on to climb the J-Crack, but were too nervous to really enjoy it that day.

Somehow despite that vivid description by Escelar I decided to climb this route today. Stellar the whole way. On P3, though, I went about 100 feet up that dynamite hand crack and then traversed _left_ across a clean face under a small roof before turning the roof on its left side. This puts you on a ramp that heads straight up and right at the cave.

More beta, too: you can exit straight out the cave, supposedly 5.8, or take a fun and easy (~5.4) hand traverse horizontally out to the right to the edge, and then up an easy chimney. We took the latter as storm clouds were approaching and we wanted an early exit.

Descent: Basically cruise straight ahead the same direction you were facing while climbing, along some ledges down and then up before you get to a sloping ramp/gully that cuts back down and to the right. Take this, which is fairly defined and has cairns.

Myke, that "easy, ~5.4 hand traverse" is rated 5.7+ or even 5.8 in all the guidebooks! I must add that I agree with them--and though it protects well, it's not sewn-up. Note that I describe both variations under the route, "The Cave Exit".

If you're strapped for time, you can do the route in 3 pitches and still get all the stellar climbing in. P1) Start on top of the leaning flake which puts you right at the crux move and head up to the belay at the base of the classic hand crack. P2) Jam the crack, do the traverse and belay on the standard belay ledge. P3) traverse diagonally right across the slightly runout slab, and over to the base of the obvious flake-filled chimney. Head up the 5.7 chimney (mostly jams and jugs) until your rope runs out. Even if you have a 50 meter rope, you'll still end up at a place where you can safely scramble up to the walk-off.

In the original description you can combine the first 2 pitches with long runners, minimal protection on the 5.4 section, and a 60m rope. Also, after the long 5.8 section, make the traverse under the bulge before the roof, climb up the crack in the middle at 5.7, jam the dihedral, and finish on the same large ledge. Belay spot takes green Aliens, small nuts, and a #4 Camalot. Finish the route with the 5.4 slab/crack and 5.7c cave exit. Total pitches: 3.

Great route! As described in the comment above, the route does combine well into three pitches, though you will have some rope drag. The runout start is all there, but you do have to make some moves on small holds. Rossiter's book says extra #2.5 or #3 Camalots may be useful. The only place you'd need two of those would be towards the top of the flake on P1. I only had one, so there was a bit of a runout (15 feet, maybe?), but the climbing was not too hard. The 8+ section seemed very short.

I noticed when I climbed this recently that there is an anchor consisiting of a pin and a nut connected with a chain. Anyone have any idea how long the rappel is if you rap off left to the Fat City area (i.e can you do it with 1 60m rope to the ground)?

A single rope rappel with a 60m rope does indeed reach the Fat City area from the piton/nut anchor atop pitch 2 of Pear Buttress.

A #5 Camalot can be used to protect the 5.7 move 30 feet off the deck on the first pitch. After you make the move, you can get in a bomber higher piece, clip into it, then back-clean the #5 and lower it to your belayer, since you won't need it for the rest of the climb.

30 feet? a bomber handjam and a 1 or 2 Camalot can be had a like 12 feet. You can also go up the thin crack to the left, it will take a good medium sized stopper after about 8 feet. Leave the 5 Camalot in the car.

The #5 Camalot is useful for the 5.7 face start, which begins 10 feet right of the flake. Using this start, it's not possible to place a smaller cam down low behind the flake since you don't get near the flake until you're 20-30 feet up.

Outstanding Climb. You can run pitch 2 and 3 together if you stretch the rope to the knot for 200 feet of 5.8 hand jamming with excellent exposure. It may require a simal climbing for 5 or so feet depending how you place your gear. Use supper long runners on the traverse from the end of pitch one and the lower part corner.

The 5.9R start isn't too bad - I got in a small TCU and a good small stopper (say #4 or #5) with a screamer about a foot above that in the small vertical seam that tapers out just at the bottom of the flake (8-10 feet off the deck). I felt like this protected the next couple of moves pretty well - as long as you don't blow it right before getting in the next piece about 8 or so feet up you'd be fine.

Like C.V. said, climb the beginning of "Loose End's" 2nd pitch for 20-30ft and make the traverse (L) back onto "Pear" at the piton belay ledge. Then follow the "Pear" out of the cave exit for one great day of climbing.

After climbing it the first time this weekend, this is now one of my alltime favorite climbs. A classic in my book, and an excellent 5.8 for someone transitioning from 5.7 to 5.8 leading (like me), with one caveat: getting to your first piece.If you're in my league and not confident with runout 5.7 face climbing right off the deck, my advice to you is swallow your pride and don't do the runout at the bottom unless you climb up to the top of the flake and "preset" a piece first. You can still place gear on the way up to the "preset" for experience and the fun of it (and for added safety). Some may object to this technique (and one factor to weigh here is whether there are people waiting behind you), but for me it beats the risk of spending several months in a wheelchair (something a friend of mine is now doing after an 8' fall onto a flat ledge). This climb is too fun to skip due to the runout at the bottom. And the bottom of the first pitch is too fun to skip by starting at the top of the flake.

This is a good climb, but I don't think that it is a 5.8 I would say 5.7, if you can find the right foot holds, it's pretty easy, but it's smooth, a lot of people have definitely climbed it.

Very enjoyable route with good exposure. Hope you like face climbing cause that first pitch is a little thin and definitely run out. We ended up taking the second crack on the left of the ramp on the second pitch, instead of continuing around the corner. I think it went at 9+. It was thin and definitely every bit of 9+. The third pitch is the prize winner, perfect finger crack which widens to hands. I got a bit sketched on when to traverse right on the undercling. Wait of the second (sic) of and more predominant overhang to traverse right under. Overall, a great route with a beauty of a summit. The walk-off is a bit painful in climbing shoes, I recommend bringing a small bag with food, H2O, and a light weight pair of sandles or shoes for the descent. Enjoy...

Hmmm, maybe I had my expectations too high today after reading all of the gushing comments above. I think Melvin's Wheel was better. The hand crack was nice, the little 5.9 var. added some spice, but this route is definitely not on my list of all-time favorites-- pretty good, but I probably won't go back to do it again.

Great route! On P1 a wide stem over to the flake was the move my leader made for a stance to place a #4 cam behind the flake for the (7) start. An easy move, yet mentally difficult for the leader because of the consequence as stated by others above.. a no fall move for sure....The crux move above off the flake is interesting, IMO favors those with a longer arms, involving a high reach finger lock into the headwall crack...very short sequence though, to a good hold a foot or two higher.The most enjoyable climbing for me was the P3 hand/finger crack. Great jams! We went to the right below the small roof above this crack and continued up a slab to the cave, exiting through its roof. The roof in this cave is well protected and not as difficult as it might appear at first glance..albeit awkward its a fun finish.

Climbed this for the first time on lead today. I got off route a couple times, but managed to make it to the cave. I thought the cave was tricky at first, but it really is not that bad. You can get some really good cams in the flake on the wall. The flake sounds hollow, and flexes quite a lot, but the cams look good so don't worry. Lead with the left hand over the lip and find the jug, It's pretty easy if you get the stem with your leg on the opposite wall. I only give two stars because of the tricky route finding and wandering line.

Did this route a few days ago, and it was one of the best routes I've ever climbed. I led every pitch and enjoyed all of them. The runout start isn't bad at all, it's just a little intimidating when one first looks at it, but its easy after getting over the mental aspect. The third pitch is totally awesome, what a perfect deep crack, not the usual shallow Lumpy flared crack. I would suggest this route to anyone looking for a good moderate route with great climbing and great views.

Awesome Climb! P1 5.9 goes well using an Alien (5 - 10 feet) off the deck and a #4.5 Camalot once the crack narrows. An extra #2 Camalot with a standard rack; nuts, Aliens, and Camalots up to #4.5 protect the route well. Beta for the cave exit: I recommend stemming to place a cam just below the pin and clipping into the pin. You can then step back down and climb the route by hand traversing out on the rail. Heel hook / bump up with your right hand to the next rail and then stem / step up to the rail to gain purchase above the roof.

The level of commitment is set very high and the moves are not simple on the 5.7R start.

A friend and I got blown off this route earlier today, and we had to leave a nut and a gold Camalot to retreat from. If anybody climbs the route and retrieves this piece, please shoot me an email at plummetforfun@hotmail.com.

Thanks.

Just did this route for the 5th time. There have been lots of comments about linking pitches and here is my addition to the discussion.

We did the route from top to bottom in 3 pitches with a 60 m rope by bypassing the 5.4 3rd pitch on Pear Buttress.

P1: Started the 5.7 PG-13 face climb and climbed all the way up to the barnacled/crystal ledge at the base of two finger cracks. (linked P1&2)

P2: Went up the left of two finger cracks (5.9 -- P2 of loose ends) up past the chain belay ledge through the hand crack on Pear Buttress and to the notch below the small roof

P3: Did the small roof traverse with long slings, up through the run out slabs, up to the cave exit and belayed at slung boulders on the summit.

We were able to go pack to pack in just about 2 hours

Fun variation: You can make it to the base of the P3 splitter in a single 70-meter pitch starting on the first, excellent pitch of Loose Ends. But be considerate of other parties, as this wandering 'pitch' dominates several of the lines on this part of the wall.

Protects perfectly and is an amazing route. Because of the perfect pro, I would recommend this route to a budding 5.8 leader. Just be careful on the start. I would also recommend doing the entire route in 3 pitches as it saves much time.

I suppose you could always skip the first two pitches by doing Toot as well. Barring a slip though, the start of the first pitch is stable climbing. A person can get a compound fracture from falling 20 inches and landing the wrong way.

Why psyche everyone out with horror stories? If something goes wrong ANYWHERE, it can be bad.

Be safe. Don't focus on the consequences so much that you loose your composure, and then you can just enjoy the climbing.

The optional last pitch traverse out right and up from the cave is not hard and has acceptable gear- 5.6ish. I traversed right then around the corner and up; my partner followed right then straight up. Either way it is pretty fun and quick. Weather was threatening so I combined this with the 4th pitch- ok with some rope drag.

I've done both starts, and either one is excellent climbing. The R. start is not well protected for the first 15-20 feet, and a ground fall would likely be messy. I actually prefer the R. start better for my "style" of small holds face climbing. The L. start is a bit "reachy" for a shorter climber.

Climbed last Monday. Pitch 1 to the ledge after the twin finger cracks (crux). Pitch 2 left and up to the top of the hand crack with good finger locks. Pitch 3 right into the dihedral up to the cave. Pitch 4 pull the cave move and you're done. Done with a 60m rope without issue.

A piton protects the cave exit.

A great route that should not be missed. Lumpy Ridge has high quality rock with solid pro placements to be had. Beginners will want to follow solid known route lines. Lumpy's many features and multiple pitch routes could climb you out to nowhere you want to be. Get there early for good parking and don't leave food out. Critters know climbers bring snacks. The ratings in Lumpy are pretty solid. Crack craggers will be drawn to this place forever. If you are new to trad, leading Lumpy will open doors. The veterans will just appreciate the length, quality, and some exposure of Lumpy as a whole. The perfect 5.10 tuning can be had here. Know your anchors, knots, and have fun.

I had a lot of fun on this one. The 5.7 start was classic! Easy route finding, and great rock. We had to get there early on a weekday to be the first group on the route. I did it pretty easily in three pitches, 70m rope. **** grade II.

Wow! That third pitch finger and hand crack is just about as good as it gets. Go climb it and see for yourself!

For linking, we did the whole thing in 3 pitches with a 60m. Ground past the first ledge to the second ledge (atop Loose Ends splitter etc?). P2 was the money crack through that roof and up the water runnel until you run out of rope short of the cave. P3 up to and through the cave to the summit.

Enjoy!

Lost my 0.75 BD cam marked with black tape today. Please let me know if you find it. Thanks

If you want to, you can climb the first pitch of Loose Ends to avoid the runout start. Harder but protects very well, especially if you bring extra #4-7 nuts and a few c3s. Belay is in the same spot I believe as 1st pict of Pear Buttress. Of course, this is provided it is not crowded and somebody wands to climb Loose Ends proper. Loose Buttress, ha.

Watched Gary Neptune walk up the first pitch in Kronhoffer's more years ago than I'll admit, chatting all the way. He threw an ancient-even-then hex in the crack and kept going.

I got up to the committing move when it was my turn to lead, wimped out and down-climbed. Since then, I've just led up the slab to the left of the usual corner, not placing pro until I get to the ledge formed by the top of that flake (right below the crux). That way, my second can have the fun of climbing the real start, and I don't have to make any more of my hair turn grey.

I'll be in Lumpy this summer and plan to do some climbing with my father-in-law, who climbs some and will have been training with a finger board for whatever we get on this summer. I'm thinking of taking him up Pear Buttress, but he doesn't have any jamming skills (period). Can this one be climbed without jams? Holds on the face? Imperfections or holds in the cracks? I'm pretty comfortable leading 5.8 and will take the sharp end; I just want to know a bit about what's up there before we leave the ground. Looking for adventure but not an epic.

The third pitch would be pretty epic without some jamming skills. Take him up something in Eldo, or an easy high peaks route (if you don't mind the more committing day). If it's gotta be Lumpy, some fun moderates that do not require much jamming include East Ridge of Twin Owls; Batman and Robin; Hand over Hand; Hiatus (scary for the leader); and Magical Chrome Plated. There are also many great routes in the 5.8/9 range on Sundance Buttress that don't involve a ton of jamming, but these are more committing.

Eric, I sent you a private message, did you get it?

Yeah Charles. I got it yesterday. Tried to send you a private message in return but not sure if you got it as I also sent something to myself as a test and it never arrived. Thanks for your note. As it stands, I have my pop working on some jamming technique: shared a website with him and told him to get some practice wherever he could find it: parking garages, the neighbor's fence, between books on the bookshelf.... We'll see how that goes. I'm quite excited about the third pitch and really want to try it out, but I don't want to get up there and have to bail or knock his confidence into the dirt with a failed attempt. In the meantime I'm practicing my mechanical raising systems in case he needs an assist. We'll do some single pitch stuff over in Jurassic Park to warm up and get a little practice before we get too far off of the ground in the Book; I understand there's a crack to play around with on the TR area on the Dinosaur's Foot (though it looks like more of a layback/face crack than one lending itself to jamming). I'm holding Deville 3 or Magical... in reserve if he doesn't feel up to the Buttress, but I really want to climb it. We'll see how it goes in July. Thanks again.

P3 has to be one of the best 5.8s out there. Superb.