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On the crux traverse...
On the Northwest Face of Lower Peanuts Wall, locate a few dead trees leaning against the lower section. Just down and left from these is a left-leaning ramp that can be scrambled to a good ledge, some 70' from the ground. Move down and left on this ledge until a shallow, left-facing dihedral, which curls right to become a flake-roof. A crack about 10' right of there goes up to intersect the dihedral where it bends to the right to become the afore mentioned roof. This crack is the start of Peanuts.
From this position, a few bolted routes are visible. To the right you can see The Scared and the Profane (5.13) and Just Another Girl's Climb (5.12), some distance down and to the left, Blows Against the Empire (5.11) is visible.
Start up the crack, arching left to follow it to the intersection of the dihedral and roof. Place gear and step left across the overhang, going a few moves further left through underclings before getting gear again. This is the crux. Once a vertical crack is available, begin moving up again until a good ledge is reached.
Go up and right on the ledge to place gear or belay on bolts. Rap from the fixed station or finish on Forbidden Planet (5.10d, sport) Wired (5.9) or Dihedral (5.9-). There is a new fixed anchor at the top of the vertical crack, so there is no need go right across the ledge system to get down. It's 100 feet or a little less to the ground from the anchor.
Nuts and cams to 2".
The crux pro is reasonable but not at your chest. As such, this route is safe but not a great route to press your level on.
Crista on the crux traverse
Chuck in the headlock. There's a hard sequence get...
Chuck starting the finger traverse (not quite a ha...
The hands-free rest before starting out on the lef...
Setting up for the traverse.
Heading for the anchors.
Near the bottom by the dead tree.
|By Scott Conner|
From: Lyons, CO
May 23, 2003
Fun route. Be sure to wedge your body behind the over-hanging flake and enjoy a perfect no-hands rest before you tackle the traverse. The final crack up to the anchor felt more difficult than the crux traverse; steep finger locks with insecure feet.
Be careful of loose rocks when pulling your rope if you rap. I pulled a few grapefruit sized rocks off and almost crushed a few friends. Sorry guys!
Also, Rossiter's guide suggests scrambling up to the ledge below the 5.7 climbing and belaying there. My partner belayed from the ground and it worked out fine. 100' to the anchor.
|By Guy H.|
From: Fort Collins CO
Jul 19, 2003
Can be led with a set of nuts and a couple sets of TCU's. If you wanted, you could place pro every 2-3 feet on the traverse. Don't let the above comments scare you off, give it a go.
|By clint dillard|
From: Louisville, Co
Jul 3, 2005
The route felt on the easy side of 5.9 to me and the pro is great. The crux is short and the finger crack at the end is really fun. There are some small foot holds that, if used, decrease the difficulty.
|By patrick kadel|
Aug 19, 2007
I did not read this site prior to climbing this today and looking up from the base I was not sure what holds there could possible be after the flake. I had more doubts than usual. Then, a short hand traverse put the biggest smile on my face. The vertical crack going to the anchors had some additional fun moves. It may be short and have an uninspiring start but this was a fun climb for me. I think not knowing of the hand traverse made it even sweeter, so don't read this.
|By Mark Cushman|
From: Cumming, GA
Oct 24, 2008
To clarify, there is a very nicely placed rap anchor on top of P1 of Peanuts. You can climb up to the anchor then lower off 100' to the ground. Close the system and have the belayer tie in or knot the end of the rope! Fun climb!
|By Jonathan Siegrist|
From: his truck
Nov 3, 2008
Maybe I am alone here, but I think that this is one of the better 5.9s in Eldo. Only the length (short) and the 40 ft of scrambling to the base take away from this climb. Much easier than P1 of C'est La Vie or Hair City.
Jun 18, 2009
Superb route. Great anchors at the top.
Jun 29, 2009
I agree with comment above that pro is good, and so I don't think leaders should be scared off by the description that this isn't a good climb to "press your limit" or whatever. If you bring a good selection of small cams in particular, you can double them up and most of climb would be easily aidable on bomber pieces, and few moves that are not (end of traverse) are just past bomber gear (I placed yellow Mastercam in horizontal crack after the "pod"). I always hesitate to weigh in as I'd feel bad if someone followed my comment and got hurt, but I wanted to share my opinion as Eldo only has a limited number of climbs at any given rating with really good pro, and this seems like such a 5.9 to me. Of course every leader is responsible for his/her own safety.
Also, this is 5.9 in Rossiter's guide: I wonder why so many feel need to use a + or -: 5.9 seemed fine.
|By D. Shaw|
Jul 9, 2010
rating: 5.10a PG13
Once you know the moves, yes, 5.9. But for the on-sight leader, better to think 10a/9+, because it is hard to see the moves on the traverse. You have to feel your way across. Definitely worth doing, and by the way, the rap to the ground is no problem on a 65 meter rope.
|By Kevin Presley|
Aug 3, 2010
There really is a finger crack after the flake/overhang. Can't see it from the ground. Grab the flake, lean back, and there it is. Nice route.
|By Chris Grosshans|
Jul 9, 2011
I agree the pro is very good. This route sucks Aliens/Mastercams off your rack. You might want to bring two sets.
|By George Barnes|
From: Westminster, CO
Nov 3, 2012
I didn't place anything bigger than a #0.75 C4, not sure why some descriptions call for gear up to 2 or even 3 inches. The only place you could possibly place a #2 or #3 would be way down low on the 5.easy bit.
Bring plenty of finger-sized cams.