Peanuts To Serve You 5.9
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 70 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.9 [details] |
| FA: | Greg Olsen & Jon Nelson, 1980 |
| Submitted By: | sqwirll on Jun 10, 2009 |
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The upper crack of PTSY. Note the lichen on the r...
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Description A thin, clean flake that starts as a wide, lower-angle layback but thins and steepens into a hand crack.
This is a good route to combine with the routes at Private Idaho and Them for a bunch of 5.9 climbing next to each other.
Location Located at the left side of the cliff. Look for a gully with a knotted hand line. Go up the gully and trend right to a big fir tree. The climb is in an overlap area with a steep white wall on the right (the Bobcat Cringe). A little to the left is a flared, left-facing chimney below a huge roof.
Rap with 1 rope.
Protection Standard rack with a couple of 3" pieces and a bigger piece for the start. A #5 C4 works at the beginning or run it out a little and place a #4 higher.
BETA PHOTO: Looking down Peanuts To Serve You.
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| Comments on Peanuts To Serve You |
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By sqwirll
From: Las Vegas
Jun 10, 2009
| The route was recently cleaned and the anchor replaced. |
By Todd M. Miller
Jun 18, 2009
| Excellent route! A C4 #5 was nice to have to protect the start of the layback flake.
Some additional information to help you find it: Hike as if heading to Private Idaho, taking the first well-defined trail to the right after passing the boulder and heading uphill. Where this trail forks and heading right would take you over to the base of Private Idaho, go left and uphill following the trail into a drainage/gully. The trail then cuts back right and traverses along the base of the cliff. Coming from this direction, you will most likely notice the beautiful left leaning crack of Bobcat Cringe first. PTSY is just below and to the left. Scramble up the gully left of the base of the route and traverse right along the ledge to the start of the route.
Alternatively, you can approach from the base of Private Idaho by walking to the far right side of the crag and continuing along the trail to Hag Crag. From the left side of Hag Crag, a trail heads up to Lookout Point, leading you to the base of Steel Pulse. From Steel Pulse, follow the trail left (downhill) along the base of the cliff. Coming from this direction, the clean crack of PTSY should be obvious. All in all only a few minutes hike from the base of Senior Citizens in Space to the base of PTSY. |
By Jon Nelson
Administrator
Sep 29, 2011
| This is also the first pitch of the 5-pitch route "Solitude", which goes to the top. |
By Ethan Henderson
From: Silverdale, WA
Aug 28, 2012
| awesome route!
I must say it looks WAY BETTER in real life than in the photos.
I would recommend bringing a 5 C4 and double 3 camalot. |
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