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Peanut Man 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a

   
Type: Sport, 1 pitch, 75'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Mark Sprague, 1999
Page Views: 5,447
Submitted By: Jay Knower on Oct 16, 2006
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Climbing Peanut Man. The orange quartzite band is ...

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Description 

Peanut Man climbs up the center of Main Cliff proper. Scramble from the ground (easy class four) and gain the raised ledge. Belay at an eyebolt on the far right side of the ledge.

The climb starts out with fun, insecure, 5.10ish climbing up steep orange corners. After passing a piton (it's not necessary to clip this) it is possible to rest off a jug at the top of the orange rock. From here, the rock turns to schist, and if you think that the bulge threatens over you like a black raincloud, then you are entirely correct.

The bulge presents the crux of the route--an upward stab into the obvious undercling. The difficulties continue, however, as the holds turn into slopers, leaving the climber grasping for purchase on the rounded topout. A few easier moves lead to the anchors.

Many shorter people think this climb is harder. A long reach helps a great deal on the final topout.

Note: Peanut Man got the big upgrade (from 11d to 12a) because of a hold breaking on October 18, 2010.


Protection 

9 bolts.



Photos of Peanut Man Slideshow Add Photo
the rare rumney slopers exposed.
the rare rumney slopers exposed.
A sad day for all....
A sad day for all....
otey crimpin' getting ready for the slopers
otey crimpin' getting ready for the slopers
james otey on the jug before the business
james otey on the jug before the business
Tim D. enjoying the January climbing Main cliff and Peanut Man have to offer.
Tim D. enjoying the January climbing Main cliff an...
otey finishing a lap on peanut man, one of his favorite routes at rumney
otey finishing a lap on peanut man, one of his fav...
Muel finding his way up Peanut Man
Muel finding his way up Peanut Man
Getting up into that cruxy undercling.
Getting up into that cruxy undercling.
Taylor on the sloping topout.
Taylor on the sloping topout.
Otey riding the peanut on a nice fall day
Otey riding the peanut on a nice fall day
otey... peanut man... nuff said...
otey... peanut man... nuff said...
Tim Mijal fighting!
Tim Mijal fighting!
Comments on Peanut Man Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Nov 1, 2010
By Chris Duca
Administrator
From: Havertown, PA
Dec 3, 2007
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a

So as to avoid the wet and snowy beginning of this route in the winter, link-up the crux of Underdog, then climb left into the upper section of Peanut Man. I've heard this combo referred to as "Dog Nuts". There is a bit of a run out between the two routes, but it is on mellow terrain. Highly recommended.

By Ladd Raine
Administrator
From: Plymouth, NH
Dec 4, 2007
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII E5 6a

There is a fixed line to asist with the actual star when the conditions are bad also. It lets you get up to the ledge to put on shoes and such in confidence.

By Mike Thompson
From: Manchester NH
Dec 19, 2008

wow jay.... i first gotta say that ive been looking at that route for a little while puzzling about it and wondering if i was up to the challenge of projecting it......after that phenomenal description... im AMPED to get on it!!!! cant wait! i have found a new proj and im psyched!!! thanks for the amazing description!

By matthewWallace
From: plymouth, nh
Jul 24, 2009

I have belayed someone one this route but have not yet been on it, but the route looks sweet, I am looking forward to getting on it for sure!

By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Jan 7, 2010
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a

I did the "dog nuts" link up today... i like it better than the regular start... great route either way...

By S. Neoh
Jan 7, 2010

For "Dog Nuts", does one cut left after the first 4 bolts of Underdog? Or is it after 5 bolts?
Thanks!

By James Otey
From: NH
Jan 7, 2010
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a

Don't clip the draw after the crux- swing into the no hands and traverse left from there.

By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Jun 29, 2010
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a

otey on peanut man on a hot humid summer day...


By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Oct 16, 2010
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a

Jakob sending Peanut Man on a perfect Autumn day in october 2010...
nice job jakob!!!


By Andrew Freeman
From: Brookline, MA
Oct 19, 2010

this recently broke (october 18, 2010, i think). I recovered the broken piece and did what might possibly be the first post-break ascent. WIthout any knowledge of whether or not this is warranted, I am renaming it Peanut Man II, and calling it 15a.

in all seriousness, this may be 12a now. kind of a bummer that the hold broke.

By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Oct 19, 2010
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a

What hold broke, and did it come off cleanly, with no missing pieces?

By Jeffrey LeCours
From: New Hampshire
Oct 20, 2010

Shoulda put some peanut butter on the wonder bread that was stuffed up there :(

By Andrew Freeman
From: Brookline, MA
Oct 20, 2010

just before the real crux starts. from the last big jug in the quartzite section, you make a big reach with the right hand past a little crackcrimp up to this pretty good pinch, and from there you locked off with the right hand to reach another left hand crimp before stabbing into the underclimb. That right hand (which was also a good foothold) is no longer a good crimp with a thumb catch, and is now a kind of crappy gaston sloper that you grab to make the lockoff.

I have the missing piece in my room. thought i'd hold on to it for safekeeping in case someone wanted it. i don't think it would work to glue it, plus i don't know what the whole ethics deal with that is. it's still plenty climbable, just kind of a weird move now.

By Andrew Freeman
From: Brookline, MA
Oct 20, 2010

basically the hold he reaches at :38/:39 in the first video

By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Oct 20, 2010
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a

Well, I think I may have reinforced that hold a little when originally I put the route up, but obviously weather and being climbed on for years caught up with it. If it really messed up the route, say for instance making a clip ridiculous or something, and it could be repaired in such a way where it wouldn't be noticeable, I would be for putting it back on, in which case I would like to do it myself, but it sounds like the route goes fine without the full hold. You just clipped off the jug, so that is not an issue. May as well leave it be. We got years out of it. Now we have a little more challenge. Maybe hold on to the piece for a while longer , if you don't mind, in case people want it put back.

By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Oct 20, 2010
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a

my vote is to leave it as is.... rocks break.... its part of the game... i personally hope that it will get rid of that 11d/12a grade and get us settled on a solid number :)

By Andrew Freeman
From: Brookline, MA
Oct 20, 2010

Alright then it's settled: Peanut Man II, 5.15a. If you guys wouldn't mind informing all the appropriate media outlets, it would really save me a hassle.

By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Nov 1, 2010
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a

I did "Peanut Man 2" today and i agree with 5.12a... i like the new move more than the old one, balancy and more memorable... For me that move wasnt a big step harder but the old hold was important as a foot and it made it harder to get up in to the under cling... over all, no loss, we now have a really fun 12a on main cliff :)